mikeshoup

If the CEL is on, you don't need to plug anything in. Look under the steering column at the black box. You should see an LED flashing. That tells you the codes. The CEL light will never flash a code at you. It'll either be on, off, or in a steady flashing state.

What's the difference in tie rod ends? If the control arms are the same, then one *could* do it using only EJ stuff on the front and the XT6 tie rod ends (or are these even different?)?

What are the parts that you have to use from an XT6 to do a 5 lug swap? And why can't the EJ parts be used completely?

The bug lights were standard on all GL/GL-10/RX/Loyales. The only ones with the four headlights were the DLs. In 86, it most likely is carb'd. The SPFI cars were rare.

You should take off both covers. While the left side tends to break more often, there have been reports of people breaking the right side first. I'd hate to go through all the other testing just to find out the problem was the right t-belt and I didn't take the cover off. Removing the covers are easy: Have a 10mm ratchet/wrench Have a screwdriver ready Pull the bolts out of the left and right covers. If a bolt turns in place and isn't coming out, take that screwdriver and pry it off. If you need to remove the center cover (IE: the belts are broken), you'll need to pull the crank pulley off. Put your car in 5th (yes, 5th), and then take a breaker bar with 22mm on the end, and crank that bad bolt off.

If you do get that 86 GL, at least you'll have a good working SPFI setup for it, and convert that old carb'd one to SPFI.

The timing belts are located underneath the black covers at the front of your motor. Look in the USRM for procedures regarding Timing Belts.

Have you checked for spark at the spark plugs? If its not a hatchback, have you checked the timing belts? Have you checked to see if fuel is coming through the carb? Maybe try starting it with some starter fluid?

Dude, that sucks. At least you're all in one piece!

*cough* This thread is dated 2003.

Good question... I don't really know for sure. I know I added coolant yesterday before heading to Fort Collins, but I don't think I actually topped it off. I got back home today, and I had to put in about 1/8 of a gallon.

How do you go about tracking down an elusive coolant leak? My 88 wagon seems to be losing coolant, but there's no visible leaks. Every once in a while, when I stop my car, I can smell burnt coolant, but I can't see it anywhere. There's no steam coming out my tail pipe. Also, the level in the reservoir doesn't ever drop, but the radiator definitely looses coolant.

There's definitely no way one of these weighs less than 2000lbs. A friend of mine and me went for a trip in his classic mini. We ended up at a weigh station, and the car fit onto the platform, and weighed 1800lbs. I wasn't in the car, but he was, and he weighed 150lbs. So, that means a classic mini is somewhere around 1650 lbs. There's absolutely no way a sedan weighs anywhere near that. And as far as being able to lift up the rear end, GD is right. The engine gives you more leverage because it sits in front of the axles. Then you have the weight of the nose of the car.

Remember this is for an EA82T. The rule is on these, the larger you go, the less low end torque you'll have, but the quicker the turbo spools. Its a trade off. You have to find the optimal point for you. My XT runs the stock size piping from the turbo back with punched cats and a straight pipe instead of muffler. Sounds mean, and the turbo spools plenty quick. Remember, backpressure = bad, high velocity flow of exhaust = good. The smaller the piping, the higher the velocity of the exhaust, but too small can create unneeded backpressure. Its the high velocity flow of exhaust that helps the scavengine effect and create the torque you want.

The weights of these cars with everything it is somewhere around 2200-2500 pounds, depending on how equipped. I'm curious too how much of that is actually in the driveline. I know these engines aren't all that heavy (I lifted a longblock myself. I'm not exactly the strongest person), but the transmission on these is a bit heavier than normal (at least the 4WD ones).

How did the old one go out? Could have slightly melted some of the wires going to the alt. Did the battery go dead? If it did, did you fully charge the battery before putting the alt on?

Two row radiator should fit just fine in your engine bay. May be a little tight, but it should work fine.

Just go get Subaru intake mani gaskets. That'll keep them from leaking for numerous years and miles. Whole engine covered in crease could be leaks from many places. Just replace the valve cover gaskets that came with your head kit.

Plus EJ22s can be had dirt cheap.

ER27 pistons are the same as EA82 SPFI pistons.

Okay, this is a major threadjack but: The input voltage doesn't matter because the power supply is converting the power. No microporocessor will run on 110VAC. The power supply drops the voltage, and converts it to D/C. Power supplies are meant to be able to handle power surges, losses, etc. The power supply has large capacitors in it for that sort of thing. The power in the computer labs I work in isn't necessarily 'stable'. We go through major brown outs where the power gets really low. The computers aren't phased, and they're not on a UPS unit. Sure, the neon open sign stops working, the overhead lights get real dim, but we can all huddle around the warm glow of the LCD monitors that still work. The only advantage to using a UPS is that if the power were to go out, the computer can still run.

Unless its an XT.

If the wire isn't shielded and wasn't touching anything else with a different potential (IE: grounding out to the block...), there shouldn't be any reason that retaping it and rerouting it would make a difference. Perhaps maybe there's a slight short in one of your wires, and you bending it by rerouting it moved the wire into a better position so that there's less resistance through it. Or, its all in your head. (And if you think running a UPS makes a computer run more stable and 'cleaner', you're crazy.)

There isn't a difference in radiators between Turbo and Non-Turbo. My Turbo XT has a two row non-turbo radiator in it.