mikeshoup

Is this the inboard style A/C? If so, there's like two bolts. There's one bolt at the pivot point, and another bolt with a long head. Loosen both bolts, then take a 17mm deep socket and put it over the pivoting bolt onto the nut behind. Put pressure on it to get the tension correct, then tighten the bolt with the long head. Then tighten the pivoting bolt. I hope that makes sense... If its teh outboard style A/C, I have no idea what the tensioner for that looks like.

Didn't overheat until you changed the pump? Perhaps the replacement pump is bad? I recall a member on XT6.net that had an XT6 that repeatedly overheated, and he later found out something about the replacement water pump wasn't flowing water very well... I'll see if I can find the thread. Anyways, since I have an engine without the water pump on it, I took a couple pictures for you: From what I can tell though, the water channel seems to stay about that same size, it just kinda bends off to the right.

I'd be up for it too. Sounds like though I'll be with the rest here... my family just has fake trees. No chopping for me.

It doesn't actually take exhaust gasses and throw it down the throttle. It uses the exhaust gasses to spin the turbine. Yes, the exhaust gasses are hotter and will make the housing hot, but the actual compression of the air is what makes it so hot. Its from the whole equation: PV=nRT Where P is pressure, V is volume (which is constant), R is a constant, n is how many molecules, and T is temperature. By increasing P, you increase n and T proportionally. Which means things get hot, really quick. Since Roots/screw type superchargers are constantly compressing, the temperature never really has a chance to cool down. With a turbo, its not always compressing, so things have a chance to cool down. Plus remember the whole friction thing that Russ mentioned about the screws.

Is it 4WD? Sounds like the noises my wagon made when the rear driveshaft had a broken U-joint. Get down and wiggle your driveshaft. Check for rotational play at each of the U-Joints.

Wish I coulda stayed longer. Sounds like you all had a blast.

How do you distinguish the different generations of EA82T heads? Also, what's the different generations of the shortblocks?

Most EA81s have only oil-cooled turbos. You'd be best off upgrading to a water cooled & oil cooled turbo from an EA82T/water cooled EA81T. Definitely ditch the automagic tranny. An intercooler would be a great idea too. Look at intercooled EA82Ts for ideas. A lot use SAAB900 intercoolers. Just don't up the boost, and you'd be fine.

Can be switched on the fly. It won't pop into 4WD unless your pointing straight, and usually takes about 5 seconds (on my car) to do it. If you're sitting still and push the button with the windows down, you should be able to hear some clicking or something to indicate it went into 4WD (should go in immediately if sitting still). Definitely an easy way to tell is just as scrap said, try making a tight turn in 4WD... it will bind and buck. Then put it in reverse in the same circular pattern to release all the strain.

My thoughts? She looks pretty as it is. Leave her alone.

Just find a DL EA82. The EA82 DLs all came with the four headlights. I'm actually thinking about putting a set on my wagon.

I guess I don't see how you could get coolant in the oil with bad intake gaskets. You'd have to have some majorly worn rings to get enough coolant to slip by that it'd show in your oil. When the engine gets warm, even the slightest amount of water in the oil usually evaporates off. Perhaps I am wrong though? It just doesn't make sense to me.

A/C runs only when the A/C is selected, or the defroster is selected. The reason for the defroster using A/C is so that it dries the air. As for manually selecting when to run the A/C, I'm just gonna wire up a switch to turn it off when I have the AC or Defrost selected. Unfortunately, no real easy way to switch it on with a setting that normally doesn't use A/C

Its not going to be intake mani gaskets if there's water in the oil. And if the heads aren't torqued down properly, then the damage to the head gaskets are already done and need to be replaced anyways.

Get a known good shortblock w/ 17K on it: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=140029566575 Very unlikely the heads are cracked to the point they can't be used. Pretty much all EA82 heads by now have small cracks between the valves, and its nothing to worry about.

Its colorado, weather is random anyways. http://www.weatherunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=80403&hourly=1&yday=265&weekday=Saturday 52 degrees with 50% chance of precip. I think it'd be fine.

Wiring up a relay though would prevent the auto function on the switch from stopping. It works based on how much current is going through the switch to know when to stop. Current gets too high, it stops.

When this happened to me: I drained the oil and coolant Did the head gaskets Filled it up with fresh oil and coolant Drove it home (about 20 miles) Changed the oil Drove it 500 miles Changed the oil again Flushed the coolant Drove it 1000 miles Changed the oil again Everything is fine now. Each time I changed the filter too. The first oil change, the oil was just a little bit cloudy (thus it was important to change it so soon). Each change after that though, I couldn't visual see any trace of coolant. I also didn't have the trouble of oil in my coolant, so I probably really didn't need to flush it. In your case, I'd definitely drain the coolant and the oil. Then fill the crankcase back up with fresh oil and some cleaner (maybe seafoam or mmo), run it for about 30 seconds, then drain it again.

Everything goes BEFORE the turbo. You don't want to put boost pressure into the PCV lines. That will put pressure into your crankcase...

Do a compression test as what's his name said above. Pop the radiator cap with the car running, and look for bubbles coming up through your coolant, that indicates compression being lost through a head gasket. Hopefully, its just as simple as the intake manifold gaskets leaking though.

Can't quite tell how your PCV system is routed. Only real problem I could forsee is if the PCV system is routed in before the MAF, oil could condensate on the MAF wires.

You need quite a bit. EA82T Engine w/ Intake Mani and Turbo EA82T Crossmember EA82T ECU and Engine Wiring Harness EA82T Uppipe and Downpipe. I'm sure there's more, and you'll still only be at about 115 hp. Your best bet is to fix the knocking. Probably just tapping lifters from being run low on oil or dirty oil.

There's a few places on eBay that sell EA82Ts for about the same price. I wish right now I had $600 to put towards a good running motor.

The p/s valve cover goes into the intake boot in its own spot. Then the d/s valve cover, crankcase breather and pcv valve get teed into the other hole on the intake. So, like how mine was setup when I got it was the exact same, except no crankcase breather (same as you, no breather cuz its an SPFI block).

Anybody running one of these? Or even an MSD 6 ignition? http://msdignition.com/ignition_2_5200.htm I understand the capacitive discharge such that the MSD 6 provides would be preferred, but you can get an MSD 5 for around $100, and get the multiple sparks. Looks like something that my XT Turbo would like. I was thinking that, and a Blaster SS coil, which can be had for around $50: http://msdignition.com/coil_blaster_6_8207.htm Of course, gotta get the right adapters for the coil to run the coil wire. Otherwise, I think I'll just stick to a standard MSD coil.