mikeshoup

Can't go wrong with those Kumhos. My XT6 had them before I sold it. They are nice tires, and great for year round in all types of weather. Granted, snow tires would be best for snow, but they performed well in it.

I definitely think, it'd be better to upload the videos for people to download, and then ask for a small donation from those who do. I'm sure you'd get donations if the videos are helpful and useful. Hell, I'd donate some money for a video on changing the front axles (which I'm about to undertake)

My boss scheduled me to work Saturday (its my fault too, I forgot to give him notice of this before he left on vacation...). So its up in the air for me. It all depends if I can find someone to cover for me or not.

E85 has a much higher octane rating (around 110?), but its less efficient. You'll get about 20% less per gallon. So as long as the price is lower by more than 20%, you're still saving. But, I don't know if it is safe to run E85 in an 80s FI Subaru. Though, I do hear it runs fine up to about a 30% concentration of ethanol in most cars. That's something to consider too... Of course, the biggest advantage to running ethanol, is it breaks some of the chains between you and the oil companies. (Even though, I must remind you that E85 is 15% gasoline)

The FSMs don't lie. The 88 XT FSM shows MPFI having 9.5:1 compression. That's just how it is. The 86 FSM of mine shows MPFI in the XTs having 9.5:1 as well, but only 4 more HP than the SPFI, for a total of 94 HP. Torque rating is the same. MPFI sounds like it would be more efficient, and slightly is due to a dual port intake, but because the injectors are all fired at the same time, its a minimal increase. The MPFI engines that really rock are the 87.5+ MPFI XTs with a spider intake. Those are rated at 97 HP and slightly more torque. That's the most powerful N/A EA82 that rolled out of the factory. Keep in mind, I'm talking MPFI non-Turbo here. The MPFI Turbo is a different beast. 7.7:1 compression. Sounds like what you need is a bunch of the first sections from FSMs

All SPFI and MPFI EA82s, from 85-94, have 9.5:1 compression. EA82 Carbs all have 9:1 compression. Turbos all have 7.7:1 compression. Also, EA82s never had round headlights. Sorry. My 88 GL had a radiator with plastic end tanks in it. I'm assuming it was original (still had a Subaru sticker on the bottom of it). EA82s most likeley all came with plastic end tanks. EA81s and prior had to have metal end tanks though, as the thermoswitch grounded through the radiator. There really isn't anything special to the Loyales, except that they're newer. Perhaps why they're rusting less is because they're newer? Or maybe Subaru used a different undercoating from 90-on. The Loyale is essentially a DL with some GL interior pieces.

I've actually heard of this before. Its been mentioned a long time ago, in a forum far far away. Looks like it'll drop right into the XT, since its already got the grooved pulley that the XT uses. Sweet. Now just get that damn pulley for the V-belt on yours, so I can see how its done, and get one on my wagon!

That, and the other drivers had a hard time finding my car!

I prefer a large 36mm hand wrench. The one I have is huge. About two feet long. I can get pleny of leverage on it.

Cracked Block is very rare. I've never heard of one, but hey, it could happen. Cracked heads are a bit more common. Yours will most likely have hairline cracks between the valves. This is typical and perfectly safe. As long as you can't feel the cracks with your fingernails.

Cold front moving in... 50 degrees out, and a fog like no other. It was crazy, couldn't see 15 feet in front of you this morning. I've discovered Silver is a very bad color for fog.

Use the stock electrical fan. Then find an EA81 that has A/C in your local junkyard. Take its slim electrical fan (only like 1 3/4" thick!), and slide that puppy in the other half.

Definitely a HG. My XT Turbo did the exact thing when it blew one. Everything was covered, from the air cleaner box, to the turbo, all the way to the TB. Its backing up through your PCV system because your crankcase is overfull. Pull out your dipstick. If its anything like mine was, it'll be 5 times over the F mark.

The vacuum source for the disty is ported. There won't be any vacuum in it until the throttle opens. Its supposed to be that way. Check the vacuum advance by hooking a vacuum tube up to the vacuum advance unit and sucking. Have the disty cap off, and see if the advance unit moves.

Those of us with decent gas milage have SPFI or MPFI (Gary). Consider an SPFI conversion or switch to a weber maybe.

My 96 Toyota did that too. Came to the same conclusion that Nipper stated, degassifying of plastics. There really isn't much you can do. Just live with it.

Look on the sticker under your hood. Else, its in your owners manual. In general though, SPFI are 20btdc, and carb are 8btdc

Makes sense. The disty is run by the driver's side cam. If you've had a timing belt with excessive slack in it, and someone set the timing like that, the second you put on a new tight timing belt, it throws your timing off.

I beleive its possible to get 40mpg in a soob. But as Gary said, the car needs to be in tip-top condition. On the $200 wagon, at a mile high in elevation, with 190k on the odo, I get roughly 28mpg with a mix of city and highway driving. If I stay in Golden and burn through a tank, I'll get 22mpg. Lots of hills here. On a recent 2,000 mile trip with it though, we got about 36mpg. Which, was really nice.

GL-10s had them as an option, and so did practically every subaru. You'll mostly find them on FT4WD Turbos though.

If you have it off by teeth (usually on the cam), it'll run rough and have little power if any. So yeah, recheck your timing belts.

*cough* Jeff, there's a wanted forum for a reason.

There's plenty of vacuum lines you can use for this. If yours is 4WD with push button, you have vacuum solenoids that actuate the 4WD. You splice in before the vacuum solenoids for a vacuum. Just splice in one of the hoses that goes to the intake mani, and not to the transmission. Also, on the p/s strut tower, there's one or two sensors there with vacuum lines. Those can be used to.

Any turbo with a dual range for that matter, has a 1.2:1 low range. Found an 86 PT4WD Turbo Coupe in the junkyard at one time. It had a d/r tranny with a 1.2:1 low range. It should also be noted, according to my 86FSM, 3 door non-turbo coupes also have the crappy 1.2:1 low range. My 88 FSM though, shows the 1.5:1 lowrange in the coupes.

Hey, both my cars run. Not well, but they run!