mikeshoup

Bear in mind, sites like cars101.com gather all the information from various sources, many of which are wrong. You can safely say, all EA82 Turbos are 7.7:1. My 86 FSM says so, my 88 non-XT FSM says so. The best source for specifications is your owner's manual, or an FSM. You'll be amazed at all the specifications listed in your friendly owner's manual.

It should be noted, these CDs are pirated. Real mitchell on demand software is much more expensive.

I'll be there. I dunno what I can bring, I'll have to look aroung.

+1 Happened to me after I put my turbo from replacing a water hose. This was quite fun, as it would backfire everyonce in a while at the person behind me who was riding my rump roast (I was still able to manage 5+speed limit with the engine running like that).

Yeah, I had to tear apart the timing covers on my wagon. They're just not worth the effort to keep 'em. Just rip 'em off, and leave 'em off.

Bought a compression tester today. Here's the results: Dry: 1 - 90 2 - 125 3 - 120 4 - 130 Wet: 1 - 130 2 - 150 3 - 155 4 - 145 So, the dry reading of cylinder 1 is definitely low. With the wet test, the reading of cylinder 1 is a bit better and doesn't show as much of a discrepency. So, what does this show? Worn rings on piston 1?

Actually, he's using the non-spider MPFI intake it looks like. The 86 FSM shows only like 4 more HP and the same torque. I still think its a good idea. Maybe more efficient. Though, I think the MAF on the non-spider style MPFI is a flapper. I'm not a fan of the flapper. It'll be interesting how it turns out.

Keep us updated on this build. I'm real curious how this runs. I thought of MPFI on my wagon, wondering what the benefits were. I know it'd produce more power, but would you get more or less gas milage? and how much? Hm. Curiosity killed the cat, or so as they say.

I blew the passengar side head gasket (cyl #3) on mine a few thousand miles after the motor was built (I didn't build it, so I'm not sure exactly when it was). I suspect the short block had a lot of miles on it, and the heads probably came with the car (185K on the car). Its got turbo heads with an SPFI shortblock. Why did it blow? Most likely neglegence on my part with the cooling system. First thing I did after replacing the head gaskets was a new two row radiator. Keep the thing from overheating. You will regret it if you don't.

The Oxygen + Gasoline reaction is stoich at 14.7:1 btw.

Parking Break also works as a hill holder That's what I use on steep hills. Push the button in, pull the parking break up, let the clutch out until it just starts grab, and drop the brake. Off you go. Even though the hill holder works in my wagon, and its a decent feature, I don't rely on it. There are some steep hills that it does roll back on.

I'm using stock boost on my high comp motor btw. I did blow a headgasket in it. I'm not too sure how many miles had been put on the engine since it was built (I didn't build it). Just, be forewarned.

Why does everyone say you need to trim to fit a 6.5" in the door? I did so on the front doors no problem in my wagon...

Use this: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html That should tell you all you need to know.

Yup, that's the case.

Well, I do a long deceleration off of the highway, then the next time I step on the gas it smokes oil. It'll do it on the highway too if I'm cruising for a bit, then press the gas to accelerate.

I have both of the cam cover hoses connected to one breather in the center. But now that you mention, I have noticed the p/s one shooting more oil out than the other. This high compression motor has given me too many headaches.

The side markers only light up for parking. They don't flash.

Two things come to mind: Head gaskets, and low end torque. High compression ftw.

I can make it if I can find someone on sundays to switch shifts with me at work.

Like I said, I seriously doubt the Korean is going to do anything about this now. He never did, and now will probably never own the turbo wagon he wanted this for. Plus, any CF Hood would be too expensive for most of us who paid a few hundred dollars for their car to ever purchase. At this point, you'd be best off finding someone who could make one, and starting a new group buy.

I half way have been considering going back to a turbo short block. This high compression motor has caused me too many headaches. But the car is just so fast right now. I don't think that this PCV problem is a result of the high compression though. Noss's (blownbimer's) wagon has basically the same setup, and it doesn't suffer from this problem. I suppose I should do a compression test. Need to go out and buy a compression tester now.

Try posting in the wanted section of the classifieds.

Make a post in the Wanted forum of the classifieds. Don't hijack

+1 I've noticed the ECU will throw a CAS code if the car doesn't start the first try. All three subarus I've owned have shown a CAS code. The optical type CAS rarely ever fails, unless it gets wet. I'd be more suspect of the distributor shaft bushings, etc.