mikeshoup

So, the XT has two serpentine belts then. Since that's the case, serp belts rock compared to V-Belts. The two belts on the XT cost about the same as the two belts on the wagon. Plus, the tensioning is the exact same, because the belt setup is the exact same (apart from the pulleys having multiple ribs). Both the XT and Wagon have an inboard A/C pump and power steering. In fact, I'm pretty sure I buy the same diameter belts for the two. One can conclude then, that converting to the serp belts style is simply a swap of pulleys and the A/C belt tensioner. However, it may not be this simple.

I'm only doing what the local county said I could do. All of Golden's sewage hits the treatment plant. The county said the treatment plant is able to process ethelyne glycol and break it down. Don't yell at me, yell at my county.

I'm confused. I thought serp belt meant there was one belt driving the system Okay, now I'm confused. I remember Phil keep saying he liked the XT's serp belt setup. Now I'm thinking he meant the multi ribbed belts. Oh I'm confused. What are you guys talking about? (Pardon me, I spent the last 4 hours in a data network closet tracing cables and finding where they go. I'm a bit fried)

A pound of force is the same regardless where you are. Just as a newton of force is the same regardless where you are. Just like mass is the same wherever you are. What changes is the force due to gravity, aka weight.

What he said. Powershifting, unless done precise every time, is bad on a synchro'd transmission. You'll wear out those synchros damn quick. Getting better with the clutch is the best way to shift quick.

I don't think any rear diff came as helical. I'm not sure about center or front. Afaik, all the lsd centers are viscous. I dunno any front LSDs on subies. Someone should show me otherwise.

Oils, I take 'em to the local parts store. As long as their tank ain't full, they'll take it for free. Antifreeze, well, I dump it down the toilet. *most* waste treatment facilities can handle Ethelyne Glycol, however some don't. Call your local waste treatment company up and ask them.

I don't think I know how to pull a window... If its something I can easily do tomorrow, sure. Just tell me how.

I know most people do it, and it probably works well for them. I guess it doesn't really break the Diff. I just wouldn't put it in a diff I didn't have a spare for... Here's a quote from a 510 guy: (Pulled it from http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm . A website I pulled up for a buddy of mine looking to put a 3.7 LSD from a subie in his datsun 510)

If you didn't feel really any shaft play in the impeller, all is good. Just remember to idle the engine a minute or two before turning it off and it should last long into the future.

So you're just going for a N/A MPFI motor then? So, in otherwords just an N/A XT? Sounds fun. (All XTs are MPFI by the way and so are all Turbos) If you run the turbo, the only way to reduce boost is to put a weaker spring in the wastegate. Otherwise, you're stuck with the stock 7psi. Which isn't much btw. Oh yeah, and my XT does haul rump roast. Its 4WD with the 3.7 gearbox. I eventually plan to get a 3.7 rear LSD in it, then a FT4WD gearbox.

The important number on your engine is stamped at the front of the block. It says EA82. Its certainly a darn good motor. Tough, durable, and a good workhorse. Doesn't make much power, but will get you around just fine. Being a 91, it will have a SPFI (throttle body fuel injection). At 139k miles, it just finished breaking in. Should last well into 200k if maintained. For service manuals, the Haynes are decent. I really don't like the Chilton's manual that came with my wagon. If you can find one on eBay, get a Factory Service Manual for it. These things are great. A 1988 or 1989 manual should cover everything on your car.

This post should be eventually moved to Old Generation. Your Loyale is actually the same as the 85-89 GLs, so its an old gen car. Anyways, sounds like you're on the right track with a 3/16" punch. PB Blaster is amazing stuff if you've never used it. It comes in an aerosol can, and is available at nearly every auto parts chain. It eats rust for a living, and provides some lubrication. Perfect for loosening stuck bolts, or anything else that my have started to rust. Buy a can of this, and spray away! Oh, and don't feel bad about not finding the thread originally. The search engine for this forum SUCKS.

My 4WD XT Turbo is the larger size. I'd assume it follows the same as GD says, and that the 2WD would have the smaller calipers, and the 4WD have the larger. Just like everything else except the sedan.

It sounds like to me the rad cap isn't holding pressure. It may be as simple as a new rad cap. Another thing worth trying, is maybe a higher pressure rad cap. Stock on these is 13lbs, and I've seen caps these size at 16lbs. (Cuz I accidentally bought one ) Though, I don't know how safe that is. If it was the head gaskets pushing compression into the radiator causing this, wouldn't a compression test show this?

Who you talkin bout willis? (Btw, I did get an A in physics I. Physics II freaking sucks though)

Its an 86. Prod date of like 10/85 I beleive. Its a strange bugger. What's strangest to me was the 3.7 d/r part time 4wd transmission. If it didn't have the crappy low range, I considered making my wagon 3.7 for better gas milage.

There are two types of LSDs for the Subarus. The older EA subes use a clutchpack type LSD. The new EJ subes use a Viscous type LSD. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. DON'T use a phantom grip unless you have a spare Diff. They like to eat the diff up.

Btw, this 3 door at the junkyard is an interesting fellow. Its a 4WD Turbo, but doesn't have a designation like GL or DL. It just says Subaru. Plus, its got a 3.7 part time D/R in it. And looking in the owners manual that was in the glove box, its got the same crappy low range that the RXs have, 1.2. NOT the 1.5 found on the 3.9 D/R box. I'm not saying where its at, cuz the LSD on it is mine. You heard me, MINE. After Saturday, it'll no longer have an LSD on it, cuz it will be making its way onto the XT.

So what you're saying, 4WD 3 door will have the larger rotors.

Simple, a pound of force on earth is till the same as a pound of force on Mars. Though your weight changes, but that's because Mars is pulling on your less force. Weight is a similar way of saying Force.

I apologize for coming off negative. I was simply trying to provide criticism. If I had an EA81, I certainly would have shown you my setup.

Yeah, same as me. Saying what we "think" and not what we know.

So I'm pondering the question, what's the size of a 3 door's rear disks? I know sedans are smaller than wagons. How does a 3 door match up? Same size as a wagons or smaller?

Sorry for a bit... future math teacher, and I wanna use some of that physics I've learned in college: Actually, your unit conversion is wrong. Torque is a cross product of Force X Distance, or the vector multiplication of the moment of Inertia * Angular Accelration. As such, the units are Force * Distance. So, the correct unit conversion should be: 1 (ft*lb) * 12in/1ft = 12in*lb Pretty simple. But yes, essentialy multiple by 12 to go from feet to inches.