mikeshoup

Great, just what we need. Another SUV... Ooh, its "Super Handling All-Wheel Drive ". They must have trademarked the whole name, cuz Subaru's got the trademark on All-Wheel Drive.

Nice choice of locations... however one thing that ruins the look of any car is wires strewn about. You need to hide the wires, and also mount the speakers in a way that looks better.

Sweet dude. These wagons were made for haulin, and that's just what they'll do.

Are you talking running a turbo setup with an SPFI block? My XT Turbo's engine was built like this. It gives it plenty of low-end torque, and more power for when the turbo kicks in. Its running stock boost, and I wouldn't run anything higher than that. Largest problem with it so far was a head gasket blew in fairly short order. Not entirely sure the cause of it. It most likely was due to overheating from neglect on my part. If you do this, keep that thing running cool. Run ONLY premium. It WILL knock under boost otherwise. You may even have to retard the timing. What helps me is I live in a higher altitude. The lower air pressure means less air is being force fed to it. I recommend an intercooler if you don't have one. (I plan to throw a SAAB 900 IC on it soon)

KBD/Phil is experimenting with turboing an ER27, at least he says he's gonna. But yeah, there's very few turbo/supercharged ER27s out there. Only two or three have been confirmed really.

Tosh: How'd you mount your lights? That looks pretty much what I want! Daeron: You got the idea. 2 lows, 4 highs, but instead of fog lights, I want driving lights. I wanna put driving lights on the bumper, not fogs, and I don't like the idea of hanging down a 6 inch round lens. I need something that can light up a distance away. For fogs, I was actually contemplating the idea of some 2x6 fog lights hanging down on the bumper. I really don't do off roading. Mostly just dirt roads in the mountains. On nights where there's no moon, it can get pitch black out there. As far as mounting them in front of the rad, I'm pretty sure it'll be fine. After putting a new radiator on, it doesn't budge above 1/3 on the gauge w/ A/C on in 90 degree weather. A little less airflow will be okay.

Hm. Its @ 10 AM. I *might* swing that. 10am though, that's early. I don't even think I'll be awake

So I was driving the wagon up in the mountains this weekend at night after leaving some family that live up there. They live in a kinda remote place. The stock lights just didn't quite cut it, even with high beams on. Actually, I never have had a car that really made things easy up there at night. The Ford Tempo was the worst... Anyways, I need some inspiration for some driving lights on the wagon. Here's what I'm thinking: Convert the regular lenses to the DL twin light setup. Make the outside ones just regular low/high beam lights. (The XT uses the same rectangle lights like this. Works fine for city driving) Wire the insides as high beams. Then, put another pair of lights on the bumper in the middle. I was thinking like Hella 500 driving pattern lights. Anyways, what have you guys done? Also, how do you suggest to mount lights to the bumper? I noticed the bumper is styrofoam underneath the plastic...

I think that'd look pretty sweet done to a Gen 2

Must put subwoofer in wagon...

Or do as I do and just use Valvoline 80W-90. Its cheap, and works fine.

It can be done with the engine in the car. I didn't think it was too difficult on my XT. Certainly saved a lot of time. The hardest part is pulling the valve cover off. Just get one of those ratcheting hand wrenches. Those things are perfect for that.

Read the SPFI conversion manual: http://mshoup.us/docs/spfi_conversion_manual.pdf It details everything you need to know. Even has wiring diagrams and the such. As for a fuel pump, I'd just use one from a junkyard subie with SPFI. You'll also want to change all the soft lines to FI rated lines, because the carb'd lines aren't rated for high pressure.

Just use any Dexron ATF.

OR a large 36mm wrench from ACE Hardware. Its like 2 feet long. I love this thing for taking off those pesky axle nuts.

Nope, its not normal. The electric fans are made to only turn on at high temps (when the thermoswitch on the radiator closes), or when the A/C turns on.

At least you don't have to replace a $30 turbo hose The return hose with the heat shielding is probably the largest pita hose to replace on the car. Requires removal of the turbo to do it easily.

Sure they do, just gotta look. Advanced carries a hose perfect for the job: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=DAC&mfrpartnumber=302800&parttype=1066&ptset=A Drive-Rite hose, part number: 302800 NAPA also carries a generic heater hose that's 0.3 inches in diameter with a 90 degree bend in it. This works great too!

OR, if the engine is still in the car and its a manual, put the car in 5th (yes, 5th), and pull the parking brake. There will be some slack in it, but only to a point. Works for me whenever I need to take the crank pulley bolt off.

CTS almost never needs to be replaced. Its usually just the wiring going up to it gets corroded. Check the wiring on the two wire Coolant Thermosensor for corrosion.

Should work fine. Only difference I know of between the SPFI and MPFI shortblocks is the MPFIs run at a compression of 9:1 and the SPFIs run at 9.5:1. It should work just fine.

The hose I used is 5/16" in diameter, and is actually molded to fit the job. Advanced auto parts sold it, so you should be able to find it anywhere really.

White is the read memory connector. Green is the diagnostics/timing/stuff connector. To see what's stored in the memory, connect the white connector. The other connectors are for diagnostics, or parts you don't have. The LED is on the black box bolted to the bottom of your steering column. The light will be on the side facing toward the rear of the car. Someone really should add to the FSM that white/black connectors are the read memory, and the green is the test mode...

What size of punch is needed? and is it the same punch for front and rear axles?

radiatorbarn.com sells a two row radiator for you 84 at like $115. Look it up. However, what makes you think the stock single row radiator won't hold up? If its old, just get a new one. Its not like its a turbo or anything. Again, what makes you think the stock electric fan isn't enough? Its fine for your setup, as once you get moving, you don't need any fans. Its not like this is a turbo or anything. If you insist on adding more fans, EA81s with A/C have a second low profile electric fan. Put that on too. You'll be fine with the stock stuff. You only need a tranny oil cooler if your's is an automagic. You don't need an oil cooler, or anything else. I always carry around a spare set of fusible links, and some other random fuses. Hate to have a fuse leave you stranded.