mikeshoup

8 degrees is for carb'd, and 20 degrees (or is it 25?) is for the SPFI I'm pretty sure. Stick with what the sticker on your hood says, unless you wanna play with timing advance.

Oil's good. I check that like a hawk. There's no oil in coolant or coolant in oil, or any of that, and it was just a bit below the F dot.

So this started with a trip to the gas station. I noticed the 88 spfi wagon was hesitating a lot. After the 10 blocks to the gas station, the temp needle was like 1/8 of the gauge away from red. I opened the hood, and the radiator was empty. This is odd. I fill it up. After I get home, I popped the hood, and the whole inside of the compartment is covered in coolant. Oh joy. What should I look for? The radiator is brand new, so I doubt that failed (though, is there an easy way to check?). When I filled it up, there was no visible leaks coming from the radiator, or anywhere else.

If I remember, the thermoswitch closes at 230 or there abouts. Boiling water trick doesn't work. I'm assuming you're talking about the stock electrical fan. It comes on when the thermoswitch is closed, or shortly after the A/C comes on. It doesn't run with key off, only with the key in ACC, or ON.

I'm not a fan of the finished project. Yes, I admire the guy for all the work he did, but that don't mean I like his work. He ruined a BRAT, and turned it into something it isn't. Bleh.

I purchased a FWD Auto XT6 for $1k from an old lady. I half way regret selling it, as it was in nice shape. If an XT6 is what you want, just keep an eye out for deals. Stealers usually want $3k for them. Way too much to pay.

So, I mostly started noticing this since I bought the wagon. Maybe its the XT rebelling against me. The XT's steering wheel is a bit difficult to turn. Its still very turnable, but some days its even really difficult. I also notice a whine coming from it so often. Is this a sign my P/S pump is going out? Fluid is topped off and normal. If the P/S pump is going out, does one off of any other DL/GL/GL-10/Loyale work (provided I change the pulley)?

Sounds like a vacuum leak (however the reason it dies is because it sucks in air that's not past the MAF and causes a temporary lean condition...) Check the PCV system (oil cap, pcv hoses, etc), check for any leaks in the intake tubing, check the vacuum hoses, replace those intake mani gaskets (get Subaru OEM ones). For $350, definitely grab it.

I'll trade you wagons

87 had FT4WD as well. I saw an 87 GL-10 in the junkyard with FT4WD. No Dual Range though.

I'm not gonna pull 'em out of the 1988 FSM for the XT, but the specs for the XT can be found from the PDF: http://mshoup.us/docs/fsm/1988%20Subaru%20XT%20Manual/Section%201/Section%201-1,%20Specifications.pdf These are all 1986 Model Year, and came from my 86 FSM. All are Carby unless otherwise specified (Seems only 2WD GL AT had SPFI): 4 Door Sedan: DL 2WD 5spd: 2175 US, 2185 CAN GL 2WD 5spd: 2220 US, 2230 CAN GL 4WD 5spd D/R: 2380 US, 2380 CAN GL 2WD SPFI AT: 2255 US, 2265 CAN GL 4WD AT: 2410 US, 2410 CAN GL-10 2WD Turbo 5spd: 2405 US, 2415 CAN GL-10 4WD Turbo 5spd S/R: 2570 US, 2505 CAN GL-10 2WD Turbo AT: 2440 US, 2450 CAN GL-10 4WD Turbo AT: 2605 US, 2540 CAN RX 4WD Turbo 5spd D/R: 2520 US, 2520 CAN Station Wagon: DL 2WD 5spd: 2300 US, 2315 CAN DL 4WD 5spd S/R: 2425 US, 2425 CAN GL 2WD 5spd: 2350 US, 2365 CAN GL 4WD 5spd D/R: 2495 US, 2495 CAN GL 2WD SPFI AT: 2385 US, 2400 CAN GL 4WD AT: 2515 US, 2515 CAN GL-10 2WD Turbo 5spd: 2530 US, 2545 CAN GL-10 4WD Turbo 5spd S/R: 2650 US, 2650 CAN GL-10 2WD Turbo AT: 2550 US, 2565 CAN GL-10 4WD Turbo AT: 2700 US, 2700 CAN 3-Door Coupe: DL 2WD 5spd: 2210 US (not in CAN) GL 2WD 5spd: 2275 US, 2285 CAN GL 4WD 5spd D/R: 2415 US, 2415 CAN GL 2WD SPFI AT: 2310 US, 2320 CAN GL 4WD AT: 2435 US, 2435 CAN TURBO 4WD 5spd D/R: 2545 US, 2545 CAN ** Interesting thing to note here, for the 3dr coupe, the 86 FSM doesn't give a designation for the Turbo model, except Turbo. Doesn't say GL, GL-10, whatever. Odd. XT (All below are MPFI): DL 2WD 5spd: 2280 US, 2300 CAN GL 2WD 5spd: 2360 US, 2380 CAN GL 2WD AT: 2390 US, 2410 CAN GL-10 2WD Turbo 5spd: 2490 US, 2510 CAN GL-10 2WD Turbo AT: 2520 US, 2540 CAN GL-10 4WD Turbo 5spd S/R: 2630 US, 2630 CAN GL-10 4WD Turbo AT: 2660 US, 2660 CAN

I ain't ever gonna up the boost on it, its stupid to do so on a high comp motor. And I don't think the head gaskets blowing was a result of the high comp. The car always had an overheating problem, and we don't think what's his name retorqued the oem head gaskets... Anyways, like I said, now its got a brand new two row radiator (apparently it had only a one row), and its stopped overheating. So, *crosses fingers* Btw, it doesn't ping or anything. Helps that I live at a high altitude, plus its gonna be intercooled soon.

My XT Turbo w/ SPFI block almost DD says otherwise Only problem so far is it had a head gasket blow, but I attribute that to overheating and lack of retorquing OEM gaskets... We'll see how it holds up in a year from now.

*cough* this thread is dated 2003. Anyone else notice that?

You should probably mount the fuel pump as close to the tank as you can. They're not designed to pull fuel very far, its more designed to push the fuel. Also, I'd drop the fuel filter before the pump. Try to mimic the EA82 Fuel system as close as possible.

Yes, its for the Thermosensor, and its in the Fuel system section.

88 XT FSM claims 11.5 kOhms - 700 Ohms for 14F to 122F

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/brochures-68-79.html Here's the 70s brochures page. Has pictures of the 78 brochures that are easier to read

Yes

Looking nice. Gonna be one sweet wagon when you finish.

You need the two white connectors connected, not the green connectors. Green connectors are for diagnostics, setting timing, etc. White connectors are for the read memory mode. It'll pull up stored codes from when your cel was on.

If your disty has a vac advance, you need to disconnect the vacuum line, and the connector on the passengar side, near the strut tower, for the knock control unit. Just follow the wire harness coming off of the disty back to where there's an 8 pin plug. That's where it goes into the knock control unit. There's also a two wire plug on the same harness that goes into the knock sensor, that doesn't matter as long as you disconnect the knock control unit. That should keep the disty from wandering while checking timing.

Man, I never realized how clean your car is. That's one sweet Turbo.

MPFI heads have dual port intakes. MPFI intake manifold will only work on MPFI heads. So, putting the MPFI intake manifold on SPFI or carb'd or any EA81 for that matter (even the turbo EA81s have single port intakes)

Engine will bolt to the tranny, however the largest problem is that the turbo on the driver's side interferes with the master brake cylinder as the engine was designed for right hand drive cars.