mikeshoup

Dropping the charge like that is not a problem really. The voltmeters in the dash are terribly inaccurate. Only worry about it if the dash light comes on, or it overcharges. Follow the procedure here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 And check the codes. You'll need to plug in the white or black connectors to read the memory. Once you figure out what code its complaining about, check it against the list. Then come back for suggestions. Good luck!

Did you put your hand against the timing belt covers? If its a timing belt tensioner, they're super easy to readjust.

This may be a long shot, but put your hand against the tbelt covers and see if you can feel anything... I recently had a knock that sounded like this. Turned out to be a rebelious timing belt tensioner. Just something to check.

Definitely opt to do that if you have the want to learn, and a buddy to help.

The owners manual will tell you. But, just about any gear oil will be fine for the diffs. I use Valvoline 80W-90, mostly cuz that's all the local automotive shop stocks in gallons.

$350 for labor on a clutch job is not bad at all. Most shops typically charge $500+ for labor on it. When my brother had a couple local shops quote him for a new clutch in his 3 door, the quotes were around $800 total for everything. $200 for the clutch kit, and $600 for labor. He's not being raped, that's just what typical shops charge these days for the job.

Then, what about the rotors?

You can't move the disty head independent of the gear. But you can move the body, which has the same effect, however you're limited to the slots on the disty. If its off a tooth or what not, you need to get the disty out of there.

Not true. It is only flammable if heat causes it to react with O2. R12 will react with O3, but not O2. I'd like to see you catch an ice cube on fire. Anyways, we should quit hijacking the thread...

So, a friend is parting out his XT6. Its FWD. I want to use parts off of it to do a 5-lug swap to my 4WD XT Turbo. From what I've read, the fronts are the same. However, the only thing I've read about the rears, is the rotors are different. Can I use all the other parts I need from except for the rotors? If need be, I guess I can buy new rotors (though I found them to be quite expensive)

EA81s with slim A/C fans... they're like 1.5" thick... very slim. I want one, and I know Phil wants one.

Since R12 is not flammable, this is moot. The vapor can cause harmful effects. Most of them short term. Sure, 9 times out of 10 you won't experience any problems, but do you wanna take that chance? Plus, most shops capable of reclaiming R-12 will do it for free... If you're lucky, they'll pay you to take it (because its so valuable in the US). So, do the environment something good, and have a shop reclaim it. That is, unless of course, you care about future generations being able to enjoy this planet. Of course, I'm just and you all will continue doing whatever it is you do when you discharge an A/C system.

Vent if you must, just don't expose yourself to the R12. Can cause heart problems, nervous system issues, etc.

Junkyard FTW

Part of the reason your steering is so stiff right now, is the rack's lock-to-lock ratio is designed for power. You could cap off the lines on the rack, but you'd want to leave fluid in it for lubrication. Power Racks are designed to have lubrication. Best solution if you wanna go manual steering, put in a manual steering rack.

Jeffast is currently running with out A/C on his 6. He'd know more about what to do. You can remove the A/C condensor, hoses, compressor, probably other things to. Just before you do, have a shop recover any R12 left in it. If you vent it to the atmosphere you will make me angry.

The weak point in the engine is the heads, mostly the head gaskets. Running at high temps will most likely end up blowing the head gaskets. Things to do: Replace thermostat & radiator cap Flush coolant Check for any leaks Check the radiator out Replace radiator if needed. If you can drive around in the city and not overheat, but once you get onto the highway you do, its most likely a clogged/bad radiator. Also note: XTs do not share the same radiators as the other EA82s (wagon, sedan, 3 door). I learned this when shopping for an upgraded radiator for my XT Turbo.

I'll be there. In either the $200 wag, or the red door stop.

Take your alt to an auto parts store to have tested. Most places can do it for free. I'm a fan of NAPA alternators. They seem to be the best built. You can get 'em for about $75. Checker/Schuks/Kragen or whatever sells an autolite brand for about $55.

Now that you've plugged that O2 sensor back in, reset the ECU. Disconnect the negative on the battery, and hit the brakes (the brake lights will drain any power left in the system). Then wait like 10 minutes, and reconnect the battery. This will force the ECU to set a baseline again without waiting for it to try and learn.

I'll let you know in a couple days, my coworker might be able to let go of his hood off of his parts XT6. Its balck. I see him tomorrow, so I'll let you know what he wants. Maybe could even give you a windshield.

No 80s subaru ever came with an airbag. If you want to put one in, consult a professional. Airbags are dangerous devices if improperly installed. Since your vehicle did not come with one, it doesn't sound like a smart idea / be worth it to install one.

Yeah, the 5 speed has no fuse that can be removed, because its all mechanical. The center diff provides the traction, and there's no way to seperate the rear wheels from the transmission on a manual.

Me need two of those.

Okay, so the 5spd D/Rs have a drain plug, right? I'm gonna do an oil change on the transmission of my wagon since I found a brand new looking bottle of valvoline 80w-90 oil in my dad's garage as I was helping him clean out. I have no idea how old the tranny oil in the wagon is, and if its the original oil with 180k on it, may as well change it. So, where's that darn drain plug?