mikeshoup

No speeding ticket (yet) and I have a TURBO car with cone air filter Just have to know how to spot the cops

Doesn't even need to be a blown HG. I think you'll find nearly all Turbos have oil in the intake plenum. A good thing to check, since the PCV hoses meet up right after the air cleaner, check the air cleaner and the air tube out for oil. If there is no oil there, then be concerned about the turbo.

Does not work the same actually. Antenna wire is shielded. A short length of unshielded wire may not cause much trouble, but it can introduce interference. Guess it depends on how far those radio towers are away from you.

Um, not so. With a 20 year old motor, you'll likely have some PCV issues, and so you will get oil condensation on the intake plenum (the intake doohickey as you called it). In fact, that's what most of the oil found in the intake is from. When Turbo seals start to go, they go really quick, so you'd know... But, he's probably gonna put his VF11 in it anyways so no problem BTW, I own an 86 XT Turbo. I love it. Seems most of the XT Turbos are 86 models. Crazy.

90+ do not have Dual Ranges in them. If you want to put a dual range in, any from 85-89 non-turbo would drop right in.

Passengar side drain is near the front of the head, in front of the exhaust header. Since Subaru used the same heads on both sides, the driver's side is opposite, near the rear of the head, behind the exhaust header.

I run without covers on both my soobs. The XT, mostly because it came that way, and the wagon, well, that's because they broke in the midst of removal Maybe I'll go to a junkyard and pull a good set of belt covers... maybe.

You will need the EA82 Turbo downpipe and the turbo crossmember. Then it should fit. You'll also need to do a bunch of wiring in the ECU for the EA82 Turbo.

I just did a timing belt job after discovering the wagon's knocking sound was made by a rebelious tensioner causing the belt to thwack up against the cover. Question: Would it be obvious if a timing belt was off a tooth on the cam? When I first put the left (d/s) side on, I did have it off a tooth, because I could barely get the car to idle. However, when I reset it, I don't know if I moved it back one tooth to many. The wagon just seems a little less peppy. Still has enough power to bring me to at least 70mph though. Maybe its just cause I drove the turbo the last couple days and aren't used to it.

By temp gauge did not move, you don't mean that it was bottomed out do ya? (stupid, I know, just have to ask sometimes)

Maybe do a SPFI swap. My SPFI wagon gets 32mpg w mostly highway driving. That's running regular gas, at an altitude of ~6500 feet, and with a 10% Ethanol blend (virtually all Colorado gas stations use 10% ethanol blends...)

Applies to ALL Subarus with front parking brakes: IE: GLs, DLs, etc.

3/4 on the gauge is too hot. Flush the cooling system, replace the thermostat and radiator cap. If it still over heats, a change of radiator may be in store.

"wrong" radiator if you didn't have an aftermarket tranny cooler. Since you do, that one will do you just fine!

Defintely not stock. I don't think any subarus have come with auxillary tranny coolers (except the crappy ones in the radiators) or auxillary oil coolers. It could be either tranny or oil cooler. Follow the lines. If its an oil cooler, it'd end up at the fuel filter. If they travel to up where the stock lines are, its a tranny cooler. BTW, stock radiators for automatics have coolers in the radiator. Check the driver's side of the radiator's end tank. There should be hoses there for the tranny.

Since the PCV system on the FI cars is completely closed, yes. Opening the oil filler cap creates a large vacuum leak. That doesn't mean you have to use a closed PCV system. You can seperate the PCV system from the intake and use an air breather for the two valve covers, and plug up the PCV valve. This, in effect, fixes that problem, though it opens up a whole can of worms with emissions. Dunno what they're like in your area.

All of you were wrong! Heh. The right (p/s) timing belt's tensioner was way loose. I'm surprised it didn't jump a tooth. The belt was thwacking against the cover. I ended up breaking the outter cover trying to get it off, so I'm going the whole way and taking all the covers off and running naked.

I'm with Gary. A FWD 4cyl XT is the ideal gas meiser 80s Subaru out there. Low drag, low weight, 4 cylinders, mpfi, fwd, etc, all make it an ideal gas saver. Or, get a 4WD XT and put it in RWD w/ 3.7 on the rearend.

I use 80W-90 in my transmission. Runs fine. Also, if you throw in some Rislone (its an engine treatment) with it, it will help clean your synchros, and it leaves a protective coating on them. I put half of a quart in my wagons transmission when I refilled it after changing the drive shaft, and it really does make a difference. I learned this from the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49955 However, its misspelled in that post. Its actually Rislone and not Reslone.

Yeah, you can use any ratio on the rear diff you want if you run in RWD.

Try for cheaper than $3-350. I got my wagon with a bad driveshaft and worn rear wheels for $200, and it *ran* like a top...

SVX came with a 3.545 (or was it 3.454?) LSD rear diff. The driveshaft would prboably fit, but iirc, the SVX had its own axles, so you would need to do some custom axles.

You can have it Pat. The girl who needs a car is being ultra picky and won't take it.

Hah, I e-mailed them last night about it. I was curious, mostly cuz I'm helping a girl look for a car. That was their reply.

At the suggestion of subyluvr, I made a recording. It gets a little distorted at parts, but it makes out the sound I'm hearing very clear. This was taken above the engine... its quite loud of a knock. http://mshoup.us/docs/knock.wav