mikeshoup

Dunno about the broken PCV valve. That's bizarre... For the hose, just get 5/8" heater hose. Fits over all the connections nice and snuggly and works well.

All EA-81s are 1800cc. The 1600cc are marked EA-71.

It'll fit into it, however you would need to change gas gauge sender, and possibly others, plus, wiring will have to be all custom. They are not a direct plug and play. If you do some searching in the retro fitting forum, you'll find info, mostly from people converting from digital to analog (cuz, quite frankly, the digidash sucks).

Don't sound right. My 3.7 turbo tranny holds 3200 at 65mph in 4th gear. 5th gear is much lower, I think like 2700rpm.

Sorry Jeff, I'm camping tomorrow!

Pop off the covers, and check the water pump. Sometimes the little bypass hose that connects to it leaks too.

What pump we talking about here?

I'm about to purchase an 84 Turbo Wagon w/ an EA81T in it. The owner says its running rich, and when he pinched off a fuel line on the filter, it started running better. He said he pulled the plugs and they looked sooty. My question, what could cause the car to run rich? My first thought is maybe the O2 sensor. What else should I check?

What gear are you asking for? And also, what's the gear ratio of your gearbox? (look at the tag on the rear diff) Results won't help you much unless you answer those.

EZ30! I say, EZ30!

Actually, if it was going to sit, it'd make sense to pour straight antifreeze in. That way, there's no water or minerals that you may find in the water to cause corrosion or deposits. But antifreeze has a low heat capacity, so it doesn't cool well. Definitely, flush the whole system, and fill it up with 50/50. This is what I purchased for my 86 Turbo, same exact seller and everything. The K&N filters are much better quality than the cheap generic ones, so go K&N if you have the money: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290000374044 If you're looking to do the same thing I did, this is what it'll look like: You may have an easier time 'wedging' it in than I did though, as I beleive the GL/RXs have more clearance between the intake and the fenders than the XTs.

Actually, for an 86, he has the flapper MAF. An older Toyota Celica will bolt up better as it has a square opening the same dimensions as the flapper MAF. Plus, that way the metal actually seals with the rubber gasket over the square opening. Nice RX, I'm a bit jealous. That thing looks to be in great condition.

You're gonna make my continue this hijack: Diesel engines also produce more SOx and NOx. But that's only cuz US diesel is so freaking dirty. It'll be mucho bettero when we get ultra low sulfur diesel. But as far as HC and CO emissions, diesel is so much lower, purely because of the higher compression and higher efficiency.

/me points out to Nipper that the EA71 was produced well into the early 90s in other countries He probably very well has a 1993 EA71 Brat.

I have an 85 XT Supplement (am waiting on the rest of the 85 manual). I've attached the diagram from it. Its labeled FL-4 Needless to say, it goes to a LOT. These are the fuses it hits: 1- Heater 2- Heater 3- Stop Room 4- Parking 9- Charge 10- Back Turn 11- Ig-coil Fuel EGI-IG 12- Fuel Gauge, Temp Gauge 13- Radio 14- Cigar Mirror 15- Rad Fan 16- Wiper 17- R-Def 20- Cruise Cont. *yikes* I've got my work cut out for me

Walked out to my XT Turbo this morning, battery was dead as a door knob. Voltmeter registered 0.57V on it, so I was walking to school. I get home, have a friend help jumpstart it, and it ran. Then after about 20 seconds, start noticed some smoke come out from underneath the black fusible link. Turned the car off. The alternator was burning to the touch. Had the alternator tested at Checker, and it turned out fine. So, now I have to figure out the problem. Any ideas? I'm about to go through, and cut up the loom coming from the fusible link and look for shorts. Help!

Phil and I did the head gaskets on my XT Turbo without pulling the motor. Definitely would have been easier, but not necessary. Most difficult side was the driver's side. Had some clearance issues. Overall, not too difficult of a job.

Everything you want is going to be all custom work. There is very little to almost no aftermarket support for these.

I wouldn't trust a junkyard radiator in a Turbo. You can get two row radiators brand new for ~$130 shipped. Check out radiatorbarn.com If you insist on getting one from a junkyard, you can tell the two row radiators apart because they will be thick. They fill up almost the full width of the end tanks, however the single rows do not. You'll also need a radiator with the tranny cooling lines if its an automatic (or just hook up an auxillary tranny cooler). Then, when you get it, take it to a shop and have them completely flush the thing of all its sludge that will guaranteed to be in there.

You'll need custom tubing/piping for a cold air intake. If you just wanna put a cone filter on you can with an adapter. 85-86 SPFI/MPFI/Turbo (flapper style maf) can fit with an older Toyota Celica adapter 87+ SPFI/MPFI/Turbo (Hotwire style maf) can fit with a Nissan 280sx adapter This is what I mean by just a cone filter. This is on my 86 Turbo:

Cool. Also compare the angle of the Cavalier's window to your window. They should be at about the same angle.

I've been trying to archive some of the documents I like. Try from: http://mshoup.us/docs/spfi_conversion_manual.pdf If you still have troubles, PM me your e-mail address, and I'll e-mail it to you.

Trust me, its pretty hard to tell externall the condition of a radiator. Since its 7+ years old, its time to just get a new one.

Cuz he said what it was on xt6.net dummy. Sheesh. Just cuz I didn't go doesn't mean I can't obsess.

I love what you're doing with the chalk attack. That's a great idea. Community chalking of a car.