mikeshoup

Sounds like maybe the clutch is out of adjustment?

Don't ditch the mechanical fan if its in working condition. Yes, you loose a couple horsepower to spin the thing, but most mechanical fans (and I'm sure this is true for subies), move more air than electrical fans. Also, once the electric fan kicks on, the load caused on the alternator can use a couple horsepower too, so horsepower isn't a real reason either. If its not in working condition, of course I'd switch to electric fans. Much cheaper than a new fan clutch.

Check your vacuum hoses... Sounds like maybe a vacuum leak. It won't idle very well with a loose vacuum hose since air is being drawn in unmetered. That's why unplugging the maf works, as it puts the system into a 'limp' mode (obviously, in this case limping is useless) Sounds stupid, but also make sure you have the oil cap back on. Tried starting my car yesterday after I changed the oil, and the sucker just wouldn't run right... until I put the oil cap back on. (creates a vacuum leak too!)

Do the disty after the timing belts are on. Phil showed me a neat trick. Most manuals say to put the flywheel pointing at 0 and the distributor pointing to cyl 1. It makes more sense to set the flywheel to where the timing is to be set (20?). Make sure the driver's side camshaft is pointing down and to the driver's side.

75subie, did your friend ever go look at it?

RX AWD Trannsmissions have a 3.7 final drive with the D/R lever with a low range of 1.2... so in essence, makes it 4.44 when in low range. XT6 AWD Transmissions have a 3.9 final drive with no low range. So the gearing is mostly the same with the 4WD and AWD rear ends. I'd go for an RX gearbox with the 3.7 rearend LSD.

As kbd already said, my XT Turbo is running a SPFI block with stock boost. It runs fine. Could use an intercooler (I have a saab 900 one that's gonna go on there sometime).

Lock the center diff C'mon, you know you wanna drive your XT6 in RWD

How are your motor/transmission mounts? Sounds like what my Toyota was doing when the lower motor mount/transmission mount was screwed up.

Mine runs healthily between 210 and 220. 230 is just about max I would run it and still consider to be 'safe'.

Your PM has been received and replied!

I think I'll pass on this hatch. If any of you Colorado guys want to look at it, she wants to sell it by mid-day tomorrow. I can give you her phone number if you want.

Actually, its Water Displacement Formula #40. I've heard the story a bazillion of times when my dad used to work at Martin Marietta (now owned by Lockheed Martin). This one guy loved the story.

Yeah, I know. When do you think you'll be done with that intake swap or whatever you're doin?

This is the CL posting: http://denver.craigslist.org/car/165550666.html Yeah, 4spd 4WD. Since its a 4spd, I can be assured she's talking about an EA81 hatch, right? and not the EA82 3dr coupe?

I talked to a lady earlier today selling an 86 EA81 Hatchback. She's asking $500. She says it has a hole somewhere in the exhaust, needs a new ignition switch (I'm not sure why, I need to ask), needs a new brake fluid reservoir (I'm guessing it needs a new master cylinder really), and a CV joint. She says it has a new alternator, distributor, radiator, and has no rust. Is it worth $500? I'm thinking I can talk her down, she sounded desperate. I'm thinking like $350 is what I'd spend on it.

I thought some had a vacuum advance unit, and some did not. I'm pretty sure the diaphragm thingy on my Turbo's dizzy with a vacuum line to it is a vac advance... seems to me 87+ don't have a vacuum advance, and instead are controlled by the computer?

/me is jealous of your garage

The device sitting on top of the thermo housing has a hose that leads back to the nitake plenum. This device is called the AAV (Auxilary Air Valve) and is what supplied air into the intake when the throttle body is closed. This is in essence, what controls the idle speed.

Gary mounted the XT6's electric power steering pump in his 4 cyl XT (that normally use belt driven pumps). You probably just need a power steering rack, some power steering hoses, and plug 'em into that electric pump.

You can supposedly modify an 80s prelude kit, and it will fit. There's also some Kaminari JDM kits floating around. Just remember, one of the highlights of the XT is its aerodynamics. Body kits will most likely kill those aerodynamics.

I want the rally wheels! I was thinking of gettin 205s when my current set of cheap tires wear out.

You have a vacuum leak. Check over on the passengar side strut tower. You should find two (or one maybe in your model) pressure switches hooked up to a vacuum line running to the intake mani. One of those switches is responsible for the turbo light. The line problem came unplugged. Its happened to me before. Hook it back up, and marvel at the turbo light and the ability to idle.

You want to head over to xt6.net. There's more people there who have done performance mods to the ER27. Starting simple: Advancing the timing a few degrees will give you quite a bit more torque. I know KBD (kingbobdole) runs 30 degrees on his and it runs fine with Premium. I ran my XT6 up to 28 degrees and didn't play any further. It certainly helps. 2.25 inch exhaust seems to be good. Custom intakes are nice. At least a cone filter. And you can get custom cams ground. Plenty have done it.

Oh, is the trim piece around the dash not cracked? (You know, the thing that has all the grills in it and stuff)