mikeshoup

Hm. Yeah, I'd be up for meeting sometime next week. We should do it!

I'm like 98% sure that's the dropping resistor for the 4EAT... Does it have the 4 speed automagic?

Hey, good job on the movie so far. Looking good. (nope, I don't have any literature)

No its the 21th :-p

If you suspect the car to have bad grounding, its best to add ground wires, and leave the original. Most of the ground points you'll find in the engine are on painted surfaces. On both the XTs I've owned, there's a factory ground to the chassis right behind the driver's head light. Running like a 4 inch, 8-gauge wire to that point and scraping off the paint really helped in the XT6. Just get some ring terminals, wire, and run some new wires from the - terminal on the battery to key locations in the engine bay. You can't hurt anything by adding grounds.

Um, something's missing in your post. What the heck are you talking about?

I would fix the voltage issue first. Your temperature gauge reading could be off due to a bad ground.

See the link to the USRM at the top of the page? Its your friend... Subaru ECU Codes

You're right, that's for the 4WD switch. 4WD does work. On the opposite end of where the vacuum lines go in, there's two more fittings. It looks like they've been tried to be plugged (one of the plugs has a hole in it). Should these be plugged?

Okay, ever since I bought this XT Turbo from phil, its had this boost leak sound to it. When the boost turns on, you hear a fluttering... so I was searching for any vacuum lines that look cracked, broken, missing, etc... So, I found this little assembly in the attached picture. It has two vacuum lines running up to it (I don't know where they come from), and the one end looks like both have been plugged. Well, the one rubber plug has a hole in it. 1. What the heck are these two things? 2. Could this be the source of my boost leak? 3. Should I just plug off the open ends (since the one's plug has a hole in it...)? EDIT: Picture attached

Heck if I know what the random white connector is. The two black ones are for checking the codes stored in your ECU. More info here in the USRM

You can buy aftermarket air horn kits. They usually contain a small electric compressor that you hook up with the wires that originally ran to the horns. The compressor then pumps air through the small air horns.

Reliability. Subarus have been the only things I've owned that haven't left me stuck before.

I'd register on XT6.net and post over there... You can get a brand new K&N drop in panel filter for ~$50. I'd opt for that. People have built cold air intakes for the XT6, but its all custom. Go to jcwhitney, and buy some mandrel bends, and you can build your own easily.

I learned my brother's 89 3 door had them when backing out of the garage, and accidentally whacked the mirror on doorway. I thought it was gone for sure. Now if only my old Toyota had them. I took it off pulling out of a wells fargo ATM... whacked it on one of those little yellow poles.

You may want to register on XT6.net and ask there. There's many of XT6 experts over there. My suggestion, drive it home from the shop, and get a second opinion from a reputable subaru mechanic. The mechanic you took it to could be trying to rip you off. Rarely do problems require a complete engine rebuild... especially if all's that broke was the timing belt.

If you don't know what a resonator is, or rich fuel, you shouldn't be messing with your engine like this. Listen to everyone before, backfire is a bad thing. Your Subaru is NOT fast, and making it backfire/crackle sound is not gonna make it any faster, nor is any way of achieving the sound you want going to be real good on your engine. Please, proceed no further with this.

Sure, your mopar works fine with your mopar's radiator ATF cooler... The coolers on the subaru radiators for the AT fluid is really crappy. Its okay, but if you do any driving in mountains, driving fast, towing, etc, it quickly gets overwhelmed. A light duty cooler will be so much better. You'd be fine with the light duty cooler, and just completely bypass the radiator cooler.

I guess it depends what state you're in. I really doubt my Turbo would have passed emmissions being catless. It might pass if I drive it around and get it super hot before driving in, but I usually get stuck in line 20 minutes or so before I get to pull my car up.

(I thought most subarus had two cats? One at the y-pipe, then one in the mid pipe) Removing the cat completely would of course void its emissions passing-ness. Other reasons I can think against it would be you'd lose some low-end torque, and the high-end gains may be only marginal. Of course it'd be louder. Probably won't gain any mpg either... If not for your ears' sakes, leave the cat in for the environment. This is another reason why I'm contemplating putting one back in. Denver has a pollution problem during the winter, and my tie-dye shirt and long hair are disagreeing with my catless car.

Take one cat out, and leave one cat in. My XT Turbo came with no cats in it, but came with a downpipe that had a cat in it. The engine is much more torquey with one cat in it then not.

As GD said earlier, these engines leak... you'd almost think they were designed to leak! Actually, most cars with that many miles will leak oil, and as long as its not too bad, nothing to worry about. Check the oil once a week, and top off as necessary. Remember to do regular oil changes. I wouldn't worry about the compression test. I wouldn't use any engine oil additives. You'd use the bottle, and probably still have oil leaks. Waste of time. Just because you're a woman is no reason not to learn how to wrench. My best friend is dating a girl he met in his automotive tech class. Who knows, learn enough, and maybe you could start fixing things on all of your friends cars for money As for oil, just use regular plain old Chevron 10w40. That's what I've used on everyone of my cars, and none complained. $1.79/qt at the local auto parts store (cheaper than most other brands), and is still one of the best oils out there.

Killer rack, and I agree, those lights have got to go.

Then open it up in Paint, and fix that

Should have a 1-Hold button. With the shifter in second, and the 1-hold button in, its the same as putting a shifter into 1.