mikeshoup

Have you checked the tranny fluid? I'd change it just to be sure.

The 4EAT is a completely different beast. It is electronically controlled.

Before you buy the one from Gary, double check to make sure its the right pulley. All XT models iirc had the 4 ribbed serpentine style drive belts. All other models had the two single v belts. If this is the case, his pulley won't work.

Well, I recently paid $1200 for one with just a slight amount of rust. The engine though has an SPFI block with Turbo heads for increased compression, so that made it worth a little bit more. If its a salvage car with a bad turbo, I wouldn't consider paying anywhere near $1200.

From their website: Colorado Component Rebuilders, Inc. 5861B Marion St., Denver, CO 80216 Phone: (303) 293-9230, Fax: (303) 293-9231 E-mail: CCRInc@aol.com just in case it don't work for you when you get home.

Their website works fine: ccrengines.com Could have been a fluke.

This was discussed earlier in the thread. Only the earlier model EA81s are solid lifters. New model EA81s have hydro lifters.

Try replacing the sender and running new wire to the gauge before trying an aftermarket setup.

How many miles? Would it pass emissions? Does it have working A/C?

I think inherently, many of mankind will steal from junkyards. Its probably been done since before junkyards started jacking up prices. So, junkyards raise prices because of stealing (or at least, that could be an excuse).

I like CO's inspections. They just check to make sure all pollution control equipment works. They check the gas cap seal, and stick funnels over your tailpipes and measure the stuff coming out. They used to fail for warning lights being on, but now they just tell you about it and let you go through.

Damn, tell Roni nice find.

That's pretty sweet dude. Cool truck.

If I'm not mistaken, you need to connect the green connectors when you check timing. Otherwise the timing will be all over the place.

Are you connecting the green connectors when you check for timing?

About two weeks after I got my first car, I couldn't get it started. (this was years ago when I used to own a Ford Tempo) Turned the key, and nothing. Not knowing much, I asked my dad to come out and look. He said, probably a dead battery. So we use his car to jump start mine. No matter what though, it wouldn't start. My dad gets the idea, "let's bypass the starter solenoid". Out comes a screwdriver, and he crosses the two terminals on the solenoid. Car cranks over and starts inching forward. Hope in, d'oh, shifter was in D. At least the parking brake was mostly on

I'm with revbill, who is rusty jones?

I've heard that before too. But, you usually just fill it up with dino oil, then after the next oil change, you're safe to switch to synthetic. One of the reasons I've heard its not a good idea to switch to synthetic on high milage cars is because synthetics have stronger detergents, and you'll end up cleaning out all the gunk that's holding your seals together. You'll have oil leaks popping up everywhere. You're also not supposed to mix synth and dino oil, so if you do switch, you want to run some sort of flushing product (usually just a strong detergent) through the engine and flush out all of the dino oil varnish and sludge.

Thermostat Then flush the radiator

Dump the codes and see what its complaining about. Its easy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

ECS is the old school Check Engine Light

That's some killer rust you got.

Sounds like he wants to cut the bottom of the air box... If he left enough of the bottom piece intact so the air filter will seal up, he should be fine. I doubt though you'll be able to see any performance gains. Engine may sound meaner though.

My guess is you have a vacuum leak somewhere. When Jefffast thought he had a bad MAF (He could unplug the MAF and the engine would idle), it turned out to be a loose vacuum line.

On the top of the motor, right in front of the intake manifold, it should say EA81 or EA82.