mikeshoup

Reminds me to do the d/s axle on my Turbo Wagon. It looks just like that second one. Looks like Bucky is in good hands. I'm going to feel like less of a man by saying this, but I wear latex gloves while working on my car. Keeps the fingernails clean for the ladies.

I've had to replace one caliper on my 84 Turbo Wagon. The front p/s had seized and wouldn't budge. Had nothing to do with e-brake or anything. It just wasn't budging. So they do in fact wear out. I'm with nipper. If the person wants to replace the calipers and feel safer while braking, let them.

Coolant leaking is a terrible reason to justify an engine swap. If you can't afford a few hoses now, you're not going to be able to afford a motor. Sounds like you have a few hoses leaking. There's two coolant hoses going to the turbo. One runs underneath it and goes into a metal line that goes into the bottom of the head. The other line is on the top of the turbo and goes into the T-Stat housing. Replace both of those. There's also a little hose underneath the intake manifold and goes to the front of the motor. This you may be able to replace without pulling the intake manifold, but I could never do so on a turbo. While you're at it, replace any other coolant hoses. Replace the heater hoses and the radiator hoses. As long as you haven't overheated the motor from lack of coolant, you'll be fine. I do not suggest driving it though until the leak gets fixed, then you will blow the motor quickly.

One is the long one that holds the starter on. The other one is on the other side of the motor in the same spot. Its a long bolt with a nut on the motor side. On the bottom of the bellhousing are two nuts that thread onto studs in the back of the motor. Just on either side of the transmission. That's all that holds the two together.

I've seen new 4x140 13" black steel wheels. Those are the only new ones I've ever seen in a tire chain.

No brain for the digi dashes. Just LOTS of wiring to be redone. You'd also need a new fuel sender. Considering the digi dashes fail often, I do not consider this to be an upgrade. Plus, the pre 87 amber dashes are terrible to see under certain light conditions.

I threw a 105K mile engine into my coupe that came from a junkyard. The car was hit in the side. I did this though because my engine was blown. Is your EA82 blown? If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Rear mains are easy to replace and cheaper than a whole motor. As far as other useful parts, just grab what you need. If you really want to cover your rump roast, grab spare parts. If the axles are in good shape, may want to grab one for a spare. Grab a coil, the whole throttle body (that way you get everything attached to it), a MAF sensor, EGR and Purge solenoids, and anything else that's cool.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768 Read that before you change your belts. Its an easy job, and that tells you all you need to know.

Only one way to find out really. To my knowledge though, I think the EA71 uses the 7 7/8" clutch and flywheel. Early EA81s use the same clutch and flywheel, and later EA81s use a larger clutch and flywheel. Take this info with a grain of salt I could be wrong (in fact, I might very well be)

When a timing belt breaks, none of the engine internals are harmed. You may find however that the tensioner or idler bearings are seized and this caused your belt to snap. I suggest replacing all the bearings at the same time as both timing belts.

I think you've got it covered right there. 10 hours driving the car will be more comfortable with snacks Yeah, I've got some basic tools I'm bringing, but not really any spare parts. Not much can happen in 10 hours, just a little bit worrisome as we will be traveling through some not so populated areas.

I'm taking the 84 EA81T Wagon from Denver to Bozeman, MT on the 19th, and coming back on the 21st. What advice do you guys have to prep my car for the trip? She's been running great since the new clutch and since I fixed the wiring to the MAF. Only problem I foresee is she needs a new axle on the front pretty bad. But that's what the 4WD is for, right?

Once the car is fully warmed up, depress the throttle a little. Does the voltage rapidly sweep between 0.2V and 0.7V? or there abouts? If not, then the O2 sensor is bad. You are backprobing the sensor right and leaving it connected to the computer, right?

Your O2 sensor should fluctuate between 0V and 1V. 0.45V on a narrowband is stoich. Your O2 sensor is bad. I've attached a graph of what the O2 sensor should be reading. Notice closer to 1 volt, the richer the mixture and closer to 0 volt the leaner the mixture. NOTE: In this graph, lambda represents the scaled ratio of air/fuel. 1.0 would be equivalent to 14.7:1. I don't think the lines are quite drawn straight on this graph as 450mV should be right at 1.0

Ask ShawnW. He has an RX transmission in his EJ22 turbo wagon. Jerry, an 84 T-Coupe? SWEET. I must see this sometime. My 84 T-Wagon is coming along quite nicely.

Moving a 3AT around underneath isn't too bad. They're not as heavy as that damn 4EAT. Get a transmission jack if you can.

Easier is a word. And the debate for covers / no covers has been gone over numerous times. If you want to know the advantages / disadvantages of either option, there's quite a few threads detailing them. Zip ties will hold the front covers together plenty good.

I never even ran covers on my EA82s

Don't forget about swapping in the SPFI Disty. For an EA81, you'll need to swap the drive gear from the EA81 disty to the EA82 disty. General Disorder has a nice write up on this somewhere.

As long as you have bolts to hold the rear covers to the engine, I would just use zip ties to hole the front covers on. Works great, and if you ever need to touch the timing belts again, no playing with corroded bolts with metal inserts into plastic. Anyways, let me look in my pile in the back yard. I may actually have a bunch of these bolts laying around.

4WD on the 3AT is just that, true 4WD. The front differential is locked to the rear differential. They are not allowed to spin at different speeds, and both have the same amount of torque being applied.

Yup, your regular 80W-90 gear oil, or something around that.

Only the EA81s and earlier have a torsion bar. The EA82 series use coils instead. Sure those tires may not fill the wells, however, it probably requires less bashing to keep things from rubbing.

I run the cheap crap in my car. Some generic 80W-90 gear oil that comes in a black gallon jug. Run it in both my rear diff and transmission. Transmission doesn't grind going into any gears, and no noise from the rear diff. Only problem I've noticed, on cold mornings the trans takes a bit to shift. Just have to be gentle until things warm up a bit.

I doubt B/A would stop supplying Subaru parts. All's they do is just repackage parts from various suppliers. One of their suppliers is probably just closing out. Thus why I got a clutch kit for $90 for my Turbo Wagon.