mikeshoup

Looking at the car Sunday. I hope the Turbo-Wagon doesn't get too angry with me...

Eh, I'll just hope to find a crank window car. I probably won't be getting this car anyways. The guy selling it isn't answering the phone, and hasn't returned my message. Sad panda.

Sounds easy enough. So how would I lower the window on a powered window car in a junkyard?

So, I did something I shouldn't have done. Checked up on a 93 Legacy on Craigslist, and I'm going to take a look at it when the person calls me back. It has a window broken out on the rear passenger's side. How hard is it to replace the window? Also, for junkyarding purposes, what years of Legacy would have the same window, and is it sedans only? The car in question: http://denver.craigslist.org/car/438293492.html

A PB4WD from a Turbo should bolt right up. In fact, it should work with the diff lock switch and solenoids, just activates 4WD instead. Dunno for sure about that though.

These solenoids are in the engine bay, probably near the d/s strut tower (iirc). The light comes on when the lock is engaged, and has nothing to do with the actual position of the switch. Ergo, switching the vacuum hoses should correct it. You had me confused. I thought you were the OP... FYI: Its best to start your own thread with your problems instead of cluttering up someone else's thread.

Sorry guys, this sound fun, but I'm officially out. While you guys are roasting marshmallows or whatever at Beafaru's, I'll be hanging out in Bozeman, MT with band nerds (the only community I feel closer to than the Subaru community).

Yeah, 'cept you won't get an EJ transmission to bolt up to an EA/ER engine.

You won't get a code for a while. If you left it off for a certain number of minutes, you probably would.

The vacuum lines to the actuator are reversed if its really disengaged in the on position. Pop the hood, look for the two solenoids that control the diff lock. Two vacuum hoses come from the manifold, and two hoses go back to the transmission. Switch the two going to the transmission and it should work fine. With the switch in the ON position, does it bind around corners? Try turning it in tight circles, then flip the switch to OFF and try it real quick. You'll notice right away which one is and isn't in the engaged position. (If it gets stuck, just drive in reverse in the same tight circle to unbind it, or lift one end of the car up in the air)

Damn. I just got invited to head to Bozemann, MT that weekend. We'll see... I may not be to the BBQ.

Saturday the 20th! Its a date

Code 12, means the ECU isn't receiving a signal from the starter circuit when the engine is cranking. There's a wire going to the ECU, not sure which one that is wired to the ignition switch so that it has 12V when the engine is cranking. ECU uses this information to richen the mixture while cranking. Code 33, means either: A) The wiring to the coolant temperature sensor (the two pronged one, not the one for the gauge) is corroded, and the ECU has no idea what the engine temp is. The Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECU is bad (again, not the same one for the gauge) Its usually A, but on a coupe I had this summer, it was B, and not A.

So, why exactly won't it work? The PP bolts up fine to the EA82 flywheel... How big is the difference in step sizes? The only reason I'm being so persistent about knowing why it won't work is because I'm pretty close to running out of options here. I have to make do with what I've got, and buying a EA82 PP isn't in the budget. (And dont tell me that I *should* get a 5spd... etc. You give me all the parts to do it, and sure, I'll be all over it) EDIT: Further research, makes me think that it would work. From this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=655480&postcount=3 : The specs are: -.815 on the XT6,-.900 on the EA82, and -.825 on the late EA81 with the 8 7/8 disc diameter. I know people have used EA82 pp on the XT6 flywheel, and vice versa. I see no reason why this wouldn't work... The EA81 PP does bolt up.

I'm putting an 8 7/8" EA82 flywheel onto my EA81T. I'm using a 4spd D/R. I have an 8 7/8" pressure plate and clutch disk. Anything I should look out for? Starter is the same, right? (Apparently, I used a 7 7/8" flywheel when I put the 4spd in my EA81T... my bad)

If you're keeping the EA, the only trans you have listed that will work is the XT6 trans.

If you get anything from this thread, try what works best for you. My EA81T (granted, not an EA82T, but still has same compression, same turbo...) gets the same power and same mileage on 85 oct or 91 oct. It could very well have to do with the fact I live at 6500ft, and almost never go below 5000ft in elevation. My suggestion, try a couple tanks of premium. Calculate the gas mileage. Try a couple tanks of regular, listen carefully for detonation, and calculate the gas mileage. You can figure the rest out. FYI: The manual says 87 octane.

Lucky dog. Those were probably an expensive one off custom dealy. Never seen crossdrilled/slotted rotors for an EA, ever.

I run my EA Turbo off of regular (which is 85 octane at this elevation). No problems at all. Try regular, if it pings, then run premium.

Q: What makes the 2WD XT Front Struts special?

Its spelled, "Rislone" (its a typo in the USRM) Actually, what worked best for me, run ATF in the transmission for about 100 miles. Drain, and replace with gear oil. The synchros freed right up and the transmission has been shifting great since.

I'd be down! The weekend of the 20/21st would be best for me. Prior weekend is CSM Homecoming and the band does parades and crap.

Is it an automatic? If so, that's the kickdown switch. It makes the transmission downshift when the pedal is floored.

I'm the same exact way. Except my glasses are only 2 years old Could never see those 3D images. Yeah, still don't see it. But my eye sight is terrible. So, I'm not a good judge.

Find an XT MPFI non-Turbo engine. That will drop right in with your intake. Just use any Y-pipe off of a non-Turbo EA82. Wouldn't even need to redo any wiring. Drop in the Turbo distributor. Then drop it in and go.