torxxx

any updated pics of the lifted justy?

Wasnt that project for sale on craigslist a while back?

I like the strut repair. That is the weak point in the EA series cars. I stopped offroading my 86 because every time I hit hard on the rear I blew the springs off the strut the same way to you did! Have fun there and take lots of pics!

keep the boost low and you will be fine. I was thinking of running ~4 psi on my frankenmotor. My situation would be race fuel only with a turbo'd high comp motor, but if done right with a standalone ECU I dont see any issues. Its been done before, I've followed a few builds on FB where guys have done it and it worked

as for the visors, they are all horrible. I tried everything from 1980 to 2007 in my 98 Outback, ended up taking them out of the car completely and use sunglasses now. Any parts store will have fusible links, I Wouldnt mess with them, they are a thing of the pass. Get a re-settable DC breaker. Might cost a bit more than a fusible link, but they make a loud click when they pop and you just push a button just like a GFI household outlet. Yes AC shuts off at WOT

looks like karma got you... theres your apples and oranges buddy... lol

true, I never use the rear squirter, so I could just route that up to the drivers side. I got a few 00-04's and 1 2005 at the shop I'll go see what I can scavenge

holy S@#%.... thats worth more than all 11 of my subarus.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-DC-5L-min-60W-Micro-Car-Diaphragm-High-Pressure-Water-Pump-Automatic-Switch-/230821527143 now just if I can figure out a water storage place under the hood. maybe where the air conditioning sits now (dont work anyways might as well rip it out) 80 psi @ 5 liters per minute, that should work

Getting really tired of the factory system when I'm wheeling. I'm looking for something to put about 4x the amount of water on the window than what the current system is running. Other than adding 3 more washer bottles (not sure if I have room under my hood for 3 more) has someone found a pump that is either a direct fit but higher volume or a system that takes minor modification? I'd like to keep my bottle where but I need more flow!

Just wondering if anyones done it? Seeing how the oil pan ends up being one of the lower points of the engine I'm wondering if a dry sump oil system would work? It would also raise the capacity of the oiling system and eliminate aeration of the oil..

I'll have the boss order up the time-sert ones then.

Working on a 2008 AVLS 2.5L this weekend at a buddies shop and we ended up tearing the threads out of the #1 or "A" bolt hole. M11x1.25 thread size, we found a helicoil kit online that looks like it will work but I figured I'd check with you guys first. Anyone have a kit or part # that has successfully repaired a head bolt thread thingy in the block? lol sorry bout the improper English, I'm running a few hours of sleep over the entire weekend. Notes: There are literally no threads left in the block, it managed to take all of it out when the bolt came out. Took about 30 minutes to get that bolt out.

if my car wasnt covered in mud, I'd climb under it and take pictures of what my setup looks like. IF you really need the picture, I can go hose off the car and snag a photo

squirt a tad of oil down the plug holes and retest it. see if the oil makes a difference I've never been a fan of using a compression tester for a headgasket tester. Block test the radiator if you really think you blew a HG. Subarus tend to blow the fire ring out and pressurize the cooling system with exhaust so the block test works the best. 120 PSI sounds like a slighty burnt valve or a carboned up valve seat And when you said you saw water in the oil, was it just water or was it actually coolant? I've seen maybe 2 or 3 Subaru engines ever go coolant to oil, its really hard for the HG to blow that way if you look at where the oil ports are vs the coolant ports. You've got a 1/8" fire ring right up against a coolant jacket, where as the oil ports have a lot of gasket between them and the coolant passages. Dipstick tube O-rings bad? dipstick pop out while you were in that hole? Forget to put the oil cap on?

you are over complicating it. look at the spline length. one end will have a half inch of splines, the other end will have 2 inches of splines.... The bottom would goto the steering column, the top (in your hand) would goto the bottom. It only fits one way lol

make a drop down bracket to lower the shifter. take out the 2 bolts that hold the rubber bushing bracket into the tunnel of the car and add metal down a few inches. I used angle iron for my 6 inch lift. had to space it witha few washers to get it all into the right spot but it works

k thanks. I may be heading down that way with the SVX in the next month or so. I may have to stop by and see what he has.

sleeve it. I've only seen it done on 2 subaru engines, but they both held up and didnt leak. But they were on the front crank seal. Still should be able to get a sleeve big enough for the rear of the crank

I hate that damn torx screw in the mirror. I've tried red locktite and it still rattles loose lol. basically everything in the from the front seats back are going to have dynomat on it. I'm leaving the headliner in since it helps take out some of the roof rattle. I look at it as a self cleaning car too. I get it muddy, let the mud dry and crank up the dubstep. Let the mud bounce off lol

Anyone blown out a piece of glass in their sooby from too much bass? I've cracked windshields in my loyale with my old W7 12 with a lot smaller amp but I think that happened window frame got tweaked from years of offroad abuse and the stereo just finished it off. The back window is a rubber lip in, so it actually allows the entire piece of glass to move slightly. I'm wondering how the newer cars are with the glue in rear glass? The loyale is a flat piece of glass, so I imagine its stronger than the curved glass? The quarter glass is strong stuff, I've hit those with a hammer before and they didnt break. This was all on the older style cars though. I know its one of those questions where no one can say I guarantee those windows won't break. I would hate to shatter that rear window so I'm just looking for people who have broke out glass from too high of SPL inside the cab. I know the door glass lets sound pressure out from the lack of upper door frame, but the car still seems fairly air tight. System is: a Rockford Fosgate T2 2 ohm dual voice coils running @ 1 ohm 2 Farad Cap 0 Gauge for all power/grounds 1700 Watt Class D Mono Hiphonics Amp and a lot of money in dynomat in the roof and rear gate. A lot of the plastic trim has been removed as well and I will be covering that with Sound deadner to help seal it up more and stop metal reverb. lol in my lifted Outback. My theory is if I get stuck, at least I got some jammin tunes to listen to til the slow driving solid axle boys show up to rescue me

I'm rolling around on one of the bigger Gen 2 Legacies on the board but yet I never noticed wheel lift, or scrubbing on my tires. Sounds like you had an alignment issue Ferp, sway bar should not have a drastic effect on tire wear. None of my cars have ever had them and I've never had abnormal tire wear. The 2 inch lift is just strut spacers so it screws with your camber of your tire. thats what caused the outside to scrub off, not the lack of the swaybar

Used 1/2" plate up top and 3/16" on the bottom. I was going to weld in some other braces to help stiffen up that area of the car, but until I get the fuel tank out of the way, this is gonna have to work for not. I dont see an issue happening with that part again.

thanks for upgrading the kit, this one looks a lot better than the one I got. As for the rear x-member brace, that flat stock will do for a daily driver but if the car is going anywhere offroad it needs 2x2 square tubing. If I was to redo mine, I would have made a U channel slider with a bolt hole drilled through it so you arent having to use that flat stock, and it will save on shipping. Each rear x-member block would have a U on the inside where the consumer cuts a piece of 2x2 1/4" wall square tube drilled a hole in each end and slides it up into place and bolts it on. The tranny blocks look 100% better and the rear trailer arm/diff hanger block is a way better design. it keeps the diff up where its more protected (assuming the semi circle holes are for the mustache bar to fit into?) One last thing, on your rear x-member blocks, could you drill the 3rd hole in the center of the lift block? There is a captive nut there, having 3 bolts might help out more than 2. On the outback there is a little plastic tab that is used to line up the outback lift block and it sticks up into that hole. its dead center between the existing holes. And yea I've posted on Subie57's thread, hopefully he gets some time to respond

yah thats what we are gonna do. Going to drill the cracked in the body metal and weld/fill them, grind them flat. weld a flat piece of strap to the bottom of the car, fill the channel with C, bolt crossmember back up and then slowly stitch weld the C channel in place to the strut town and the crossbrace that sits behind the fuel tank. basically going to make it so we can go wheeling again. Once the snows gone I'll rebuild the entire rear of the car... If the snow ever stops up here lol