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Everything posted by torxxx
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sweet thanks.. insta-googled it for ************s and giggles. 314 bucks on a random subaru parts website. Price sound about right? They didnt have a picture of the part, just Gear set HYP was the only info the part number had
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what year make model did you use to find 4.44 R&P? It'd be nice to swap that into my 5mt
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Cars look good! Makes me really wanna go take a plasma cutter to my 98 OB, and change the lift design around.
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I'll check the NSS tommorow if its still acting up. We changed out IAC, cleaned up all the grounds, cleaned the throttle body and MAF, adjusted the tps to .477v and it seemed to make a difference. No more codes, runs smoother but still has a slightly bouncing idle. I cant remember which sensor is the nss on the trans. Brown connector or Gray connector?
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ok, it finally popped codes. 1510 1512 1514 1516 I know the 1507 is the neutral safety switch issue with the 5mt's. I've only seen that code come on the DOHC 2.5, not the SOHC 2.5 We cleaned the IAC out, didnt seem to change anything. I'm not real familar with the newer IAC's, I'm used to the 2.2L IAC that has the rotor/vein setup. This newer style uses a plunger style correct?
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Cleaned off the block, its a 2.0 bottom end with 2.5 heads. Problem isnt all time time. Comes and.goes. acrually made the car stall just now. Intake gasketnleak would cause problems all the time wouldnt it? We are gonna go clean the iac when we get back to the shop. Car runs awesome as long as its not idleing. Has full power. Temps are negative 15F, would fuel line icing cause the problem to come and.go?
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Hey guys, did a timing belt/water pump/reseal/clutch/rack and pin last night at my buddies shop. Got everything put back in and as we were running it in to burp the cooling system we noticed the idle surges and has a random cyl misfire. 2.5L SOHC, 5MT. No CEL as of yet. We didnt take it out for a test drive because I wanted to go through and make sure everything was hooked back up. I've done tons of these SOHC 2.5s and have not had this issue. Idle surges between 400-1000 rpms and appears to get worse the longer we let it run. Unplugged the MAF sensor to trip a code and make sure the system was picking up faults and it seems to be working fine. Replaced the vac line from the intake to the cruise control motor, but other than that we didnt mess with anything else. Intake stayed on the engine, timing marks were all @ 12 oclock (I put the belt on myself, double checked my marks and had the shop owner check the marks as well. As I was falling asleep last night I thought about the airbox setup, and I'm almost thinking I may have ripped the rubber throttle body coupler away from the airbox on the bottom. Its the only part that I couldnt visually inspect last night. Gonna head back down to the shop and go through the motions again, i'm sure its going to be something silly thats causing it (had 3 sets of hands helping, which tends to lead to something left unplugged or unhooked) Any/All ideas are appreciated.. btw I carb clean tested the intake/vac lines. No vac leak I could find
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and thats what the pinch bolt is for. If you look at the gap on the back top side of the knuckle (where the strut inserts into) Theres a fairly decent size gap where the pinch bolt tightens. If you've been running them and you have not popped a strut out of the knuckle, I doubt you are gonna have any issues in the future
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Looking for a lift kit for my 82 GL Wagon
torxxx replied to the26incher's topic in Products for your Subaru
sjrlift.com Scott in Bellingham is his username btw, might want to specify what height of lift and how big of tires you are wanting to fit under the rig. -
pm me price for for aluminized shipped to 99701
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hey guys, got phone call from my Mom today complaining that her dome light stopped working when she opens her drivers door. The light still works if you open any other door so I'm assuming its the lil door plunger switch on the B-pillar. What exactly is that switch called? I've been on opposed forces for a while trying to find the part, and I'm not having any luck even finding the diagram that shows that part. I figure if I at least have the correct name for the part, I can call the stealership in the morning and see if they have one in stock thanks
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How to flush brake lines OUT OF THE CAR
torxxx replied to the sucker king's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
non chlorinated break clean and then follow it up by air -
Need some insight- How would I modify the 4'' rear kit to a 6''?
torxxx replied to biggreen96's topic in Off Road
yah I was gonna say, the rear cross tube needs to be lowered some, You could probably cheese some 2 inch blocks together and install them an the tires will fit just fine. That is the biggest pet peeve about my AA 4 inch lift, is they didnt drop everything in the rear. Granted its nice to have the crosstube tucked up like it was stock, but in reality the amount of room you lose at the front edge of the rear tire ends up being a bunch if its not dropped. -
yah, I'm thinking heim joints might be too loud, I like to hear my car not make noise, so when it does I can tell when somethings wore out. I guess I could order up some new ones from the dealer and then weld angle iron around them to reinforce them. I've got a set of stock ones I could put on the car, but the way I see it why install them if I'm just going to bend them again ?
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I never thought about the turbo headgaskets, are they o-ringed around the coolant ports? I never bothered looking because of the coolant passage differences and the thicker metal around the cyl liners on the turbo blocks. God I need to get a sidejob at the dealerships parts dept so I can get these parts for cheaper lol
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-2000-2001-2007-Subaru-Rear-Lateral-Links-Impreza-WRX-Sti-RS-GC8-/181007780332?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item2a24e789ec&vxp=mtr I'm not one bit familiar with the impreza chassis when it comes down to the specifics but I think these will work on my Gen 1 lifted OB wont they? I noticed that I've managed to bend all 4 of my lateral links with just minor wheeling since my lift, and I'm wanting to have more adjustment as far as toe and camber on my rear wheels so I'm thinking these are the way to go. the adjustments on the lateral bars look like they would allow me to get the camber right on the rear wheels w/o using a chamber bolt (I dont trust the aftermarket ones, I can see one snapping at the wrong time) What ya'll think?
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Thinking about building a SOHC 2.5L to put in my 98 OB ( I know #3 rod bearing failure is probably gonna happen in the next 40k miles, so I wanna have a drop in replacement ready) What year's had what problems? I know the 2000-2004 were prone to external HG leaks. Is is worth using the active valve timing on the 05/06 blocks? I have wiring harnesses out of a 05 Forester that had the valve timing on it. I dont know if I'm a fan of the electronic throttle, I see its pros and cons. Def doesnt have the finesse that cable throttle does I remember reading on a thread that certain years of the EJ253 were more prone to rod bearing failure similar to the EJ25D. Thoughts? Ideas?
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wow really no answer? Let me rewrite it, car is a 2005 OB, donor trans is a 2001. 01 uses female cups on the inner axles with roll pins. 2005 uses a male stub shaft on the inner cup. I was going to just remove the 01 stub shafts and use the newer axles, but after hours of slide hammering on the stubs I'm wondering if these ones dont come out. The 05 axles appear longer than the 2001, not sure if they changed axle length when they when the change occured in the front end/suspension. am I building hybrid axles or what route am I taking?