torxxx

Well I got the coil installed... takin for a test drive as soon as the car warms up Gonna have to bust out the pit crew speeds on the spark plugs....... next

I wouldnt drill into the spindle just for the reason that it may weaken the metal around it

Well them temp. sits at -25 F right now.. I got my accel coil, wires and new plugs and I really want to put them on my car, but its too damn cold.... Need to rent a hotel room for my soob for the night... lol Guess I'm gonna have to say **** it and go out and deal with the cold.. I'll be back

cRACK HEAD ADvicE? wtf...... explain to me how your going to break a tooth off the flywheel just by tightening down the bolt to 79 pounds? I'd be more worried about starter grinding the teeth then fuking one up with a screw driver

K heres the list... I havent done it yet.. Another board member (I wish I could remember the name) sent this to me: Ok, to start I can?t find any pics of an EA 82 to show you, and I sold my GL wagon in the spring, so I don?t have the car to use as a reference. I also tend to makeup names for things when I don?t know what they are called, but I?ll try and be as descriptive as possible. Things you?ll need: 1 gallon anti-freeze 1 set intake gaskets Deluxe multi pack of vacuum plugs 2 3in x 3in x1/8 in pieces of aluminum 1 3in 10mm length of allthread 1 can or tube of RTV 3 pennies 1 air box top from the J.Y. 1 plastic elbow plumbing fitting from the hardware store 1 12pack of Old Style or some other cheap beer Black Sabbath Volume 4 (you can sub with any early Sabbath album) Now I?m assuming that the car has a Hitachi carb and is non AC. Also you may want to remove the alternator to give you more room. Crank up the Sabbath! Jack the car up, block the wheels, etc, etc. Take off the air box and disconnect all the lines and hoses, chuck that but keep the top part and wing nuts. Next disconnect the fuel lines, master cylinder vac line, the heat selector vac line, the chock/vent solenoid wire connecter from the carb, upper radiator hose, throttle cable, along with the temp gauge and oil gauge wires (and anything else that connects to the intake). Unplug all of the wires going to the little emission solenoids. Now you can start tearing all the lines off, remove all the 3 million brackets and vac lines from the hard lines on and around the intake, dump the vapor canister vac booster, all that crap! Ok, from under the car at the exhaust manifold you?ll see a hard line coming off right above the exhaust pipe on each side, I call these the sideburns, I?m not sure what they are really called but it doesn?t matter because they?re history! Unbolt them but save the bolts and the gaskets (I think there?s gaskets, I can?t remember), you?ll need them later. Now pull the intake manifold, and remove all of the hard lines, I think it?s like two or three bolts. Pull the rest of the sideburns out from above, and whatever is left. This is a good time to plug the heads clean the block, I like to use oven cleaner. Crack your first beer. Once you?ve got everything cleaned up and the hard lines off of the intake, bolt that bad boy back on with the new gaskets. Using the aluminum plates, fab up cover plates for the holes where the sideburns came off, and bolt them on. Crack second beer. Reconnect the master cylinder vac line, and fuel lines. Connect the vacuum advance on the distributor to any vac port on the manifold. Do the same with the heat selector vac line. Run a hose from the driver side rocker cover to the PCV. Plug all of the ports on the carb except the vent solenoid valve. On my EA 81?s I run the large port on the back of the carb to the manifold. I don?t think I did it on the EA 82, but you might try it. Plug the EGR valve on the back of the intake. I?ve also removed the EGR on my and made a cover plate for it. Seemed to work well. Reconnect the radiator hose, gauge wires, choke wires, and throttle cable. Start it up! If it starts and won?t idle or idles ruff, check that all the manifold ports are plugged. If it idles but stutters or stalls when you whack the throttle, check the ports on the carb. Pump the brakes to make sure your getting vacuum boost. Turn on the heater to be sure you have vacuum to the selector. Check for exhaust leaks at the sideburn caps. Readjust the idle and fuel mixture accordingly. Top off the coolant. Crack your third beer. For the air cleaner, or air box as I like to call it, take the lid from the J.Y. and cut a 2 3/8in diameter hole in the center (the outer diameter of the mouth of the carb). Using the RTV glue a penny over the hole on the right side (looking at it from above and reading SUBARU left to right). Hog out the left hole and install the elbow fitting, this will allow you to run a hose from the bottom of your air cleaner to the passenger side rocker cover. This will be the bottom plate of the air box. On the other lid, glue pennies over the left and right holes, leaving to center one open. Remove the center bolt from the carb, and replace with the allthread, you might need to put a lock nut on it to hold it down on the carb. Place the bottom plate on the carb, connect a hose from the elbow piece to the pass side rocker cover, put on stock air cleaner, place lid on top, and using Subaru factory wing nut, tighten into place. Thats all I can remember, but I'm sure I'm missing some thing! Hope this helps ( and makes sense!)

Wondering if someone could take out the internal voltage reg and install an external somewhere. I've had 2 voltage regulators go out....... And I'm not about to rebuild a alternator

Believe it or not, I put the breaker bar against the elec. fan shroud. It dented it in a lil bit, but it didnt pinch the fan against the side of the shroud.. As for tightening, jam a screw driver in the flywheel teeth, and then use a lil elbow grease and tighten to 79 lbs...

LIFETIME warranty?!??!?!? I need one of those..... heh, give me 3 months, I'll burn that bitch up

My 86 GL is havin the same problems. I suspect its both the carb and the plug/wires combo. I'm goin to Napa tommorow and I'll let you know what the results are after I change all the cheaper stuff. If that doesnt do it, I'm gettin weber.. Screw the EPA and the state of Alaska and their goddamn I/M tests.

My dual range 5 speed holds 5.7 Quarts I believe Get 6 quarts of Gear oil

Your 86 most likely has a hitachi carb. Get a weber carb for it... If you keep the Hitachi, theres a few things you can do. Someone in here had a guide to removing the emissions stuff. I have it on my other computer so I'll pm it to you sometime this week..

take the wiper motor out and clean the contacts and brushes in the motor. Mine were really slow this summer and I did that and the problem was fixed.

Alright sounds like a plan. Do you have a way of getting ahold of him and giving him my cell phone numbER? I'll pm it to you

Alright heres the sitiation - 92 Loyale SPFI I think Power steering AC I'm pretty sure its the voltage regulator in the alternator thats shot.. Batt. dont hold a charge, and when you rev the engine up the volt meter goes up with the Tach to 18 Volts at 5k RPM. So my question is the voltage regualtor inside the Alternator or external on this year of car? My 86, the reg is inside the alt. And whats a goin price at a parts store for a alternator? I went to schucks tonite and they wanted a 130 ****in dollars for it.. I got mine for 75 from Napa last year.. Kinda made me wonder

you have some play in the rubber bushings on the mounts.. I've slammed down my tranny pretty hard racing people in my 86. I'd say anything more then 3/4 inches of play underpower would be bad.

slidesideways - From what I said about the tranny's is coming straight from the dealer who's had about a dozen WRx's brought back with blown tranny's. I realize the Jap version of the WRX has more power, but its most likely they are using diffferent kinds if hardened metals in the tranny. About dealers not covering the warrenty, yeah well it doesnt neccesarily work that way.. They can void warrenty on anything they want to. Have you ever power shifted a WRX? The tires DO NOT break loose. all they do is grip. Misuse would be getting the tires to spin (breakloose) This is damn near impossible in a stock WRX.

You gots the same problem I have. Your Fast idler is messed up. But I'm runnin a carb on my 86 so I'm not sure what it equates to in fuel injection. Your choke also sounds like its not functioning. I have to spend 5 minutes revving my engine every morning when I start it.. Also what kind of plugs are you running? If they aren't NGK plugs, change em to NGks.

bad oil pump?

ALright guys, I'm tired of the lame yellow dash lights and I'm going to switch to a diff color.. Guess my main question is are hte dash lights the same bulbs as the reading lights that are above the rear view mirrow? And also, I've never pulled my dash apart. How complicated is it? And is it something that I can do in a few hours? A response will be greatly appreciated. thanks guys

Snowman, I'm prolly a lil closer then Northguy is... Once you get back into alaska you are welcome to call me too if you break down... Tok is only a few hours away from here, and I'm always down for an adventure.

well, if you want to, drill a hole..... if you replaced the thermo and tested it in boiling water, I dont see what you have to worry about it sticking open or closed.. Clean your old thermo in rubbing alcohol for about a day (letting it soak, and then rinse it off in hot water..... if your new thermo sticks, just put the old cleaned one back in.. The old one should work fine

k, how to flush your brake lines.. Do a search for it on this site... Theres a post about it.. If your too lazy to do it, pull the passenger side front line, and start your car, pump the brakes til the resevior is almost dry, hook it back up, fill the tank, then bleed brakes done job....

oh wow, GD is going with the ultra whites.. Read the post about poor headlights and GD totally disses the white lights........ Gee, lemme think.... White/blue is better then white

just let me say.... Skid plate over the oil pan, + Ultra White foul weather lights = Lighting problem solved.. I installed these lights in 5 minutes (I swear to god) Not drilling involved.. Pull the two front bolts to the skid plate, put the foul weather light brackets on there, and tighten the bolts up, run the wires.. DONE

I wouldnt try getting more power out of that WRX until you change transmissions in it.. The reg. WRX has a piece of **** transmission that IS NOT covered in the warranty (spent an hour last weekend at the soob dealer discussing it with the dealer) If you want to take that WRX and make it fast, get ahold of a STi transmission.. They are the bulletproof ones. Then get do a ECM/Fuel delivery system upgrade, 2 stage turbo, new pipes and hook a cheap NOS setup to it..