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I'm thinking it might be time to change the intake filter on my blower motor for the heater.. Just wondering whree its at on my 86 GL??? - NO A/C btw

how do I tell if my relay is shot?

lol.. I got bubbles in my oil too this morning.. My outside outlet that I plug my car into died, so my car sat at -5F all night.. When I started it.... Tick tick tick tick tick... for about 3 hours Time to replace those damn seals... Might as well hit the timing belts too if I'm gonna have to rip all that stuff off...

Alright guys, my car is doing hte same thing.. It used to work on 3 and 4, but just today it only works on #4 high speed What do I have to do to fix it? is it the resistors or do I need to pull the blower and clean out the elec. motor? Please help.. I'm freezing my rump roast off up here

what works the best for an oil pan heater that I've found is a battery blanket. Soob oil pans are about the same size as the battery thats used in the car... When I put mine on this year, all you have to do is drop the oil pan skid plate and wrap the blanket around the oil pan, secure with one piece of bailing wire, then put the skid plate back on.. the plate holds the batt. blanket in tight against the oil pan... Mine car starts fine even at -40 F

if you want brighter lights that actually make a differerence, get white/blue fog lights..... All those different color headlights dont really work all that well in the GL headlight Lenses. They block a lot of light.. Fog lights are as cheap as buying 2 of the Sylvania Silverstars or whatever tehy are called, and then you are actually adding more lights instead of just changing a bulb.. Easy place to put for lights on a 87.. The two front Oil pan Skid plate bolts.. Take those out, get longer ones and bolt down the fog light brackets with the longer bolt.. (no drilling required at all, takes 5 minutes to set up)

get a block heater and oil pan heater.. plug your car in... it will start up every time

Hell ya to crankin up the stereo.... I have to do that most of the time.. lol

well then what are you worried about? your car runs cold.. Soobs run better cooler... .my gauge NEVER gets above 1/3 since I fixed it and it runs about 5 x better.. As long as you have good heat comin off the heater.. I wouldnt worry too much

water pump?

good point.. didnt think about that.. lol.... Put a testing wire on the intake temp sensor and ground it out.. See if your temp gauge goes all the way up.... your car could be getting up to normal operating temp and the gauge might not be working... Also like I said 180's make your car run ALOT cooler...

before you put the thermo in, if you havent already, make sure you boil that bitch.. make sure it opens.. I got a bad thermo just the other day.. didnt boil it.. put it in the car and took off.... 10 min later.. Boom overheated.. Stuck on the side of the road, puttin the old one back in

Check the Ball joints and Tie rods.....

k heres what hte problem is.. The hydralic lashers I believe they are called.. The they have to pump up to move the lifters (am I right?) I might have the names for the parts wrong, but those lil things have to pump up.. I was running 15w 40 in my car and it did that.. pull the valve covers off and take the lashers out put them in a pan of oil and pump them up yourself.. if they dont pressure up after 10 or 12 pumps the lashers might be shot.. When it starts making that noise in my car, I stop driving, rev my engine up to 3500 rpms for about 4 minutes and the ticking slowly goes away.. Hope this helps.. Bad ticking doesnt neccesarily mean bad oil pump.. Just bad o Rings

When you first start your car, do you hear a wooshing sound usually Drivers side to passenger side? If so you got air in the cooling system when you changed the thermo and the water pump Try parking your car on a fairly steep grade so the front of the car is higher then the back... Take your Radiator cap off, turn your heater on full blast full heat and let the car warm up to operating temp.... as it gets hot, slowly pour antifreeze into the radiator (can't stress SLOWLY enough) do this for about 10 minutes and it should burp the air bubble out of the heating system.. Also you can try putting a 195 thermostat in there.. I put a 180 in my car last week and it never even gets close to 1/3 hot.. Also if where you live is cold (< 20 F) put a piece of cardboard over half your radiator.. Make sure you dont put it over where the electric fan is though.. I did that and it seemed to help..

I wanna say prolly 40 hours from OR.. My buddies drive up and down from Valdez to Seattle 3 or 4 times a year... If all goes as planned, I may be buying a SVX from somewhere around there this summer.. So I could make the drive up with you or something.

we need to plan a trip up here sometime.. I could drive halfway down and meet people at like Whitehorse then cruise up the Alaskan Highway.... Guess it would prolly only work for the Washington/Oregon guys... Maybe next summer... Any input anyone?

Just thought I'd mention how much I love my soob.. Took it down trails tonite with about 16 to 18 inches of snow.. Not a chance of getting stuck.... Someone needs to come to Fairbanks and go rally with me.............

lol. yeah I did the same thing... After all the crap I went though to get my drivers side out, (2 years ago) I never did change the passenger side cuz I didnt feel like using every swear word in teh book...... get guys do a search for wrc2002 videos and wrc2001 videos in yahoo.. Gotta check out those videos.. They are awesome. They are like 12 meg downloads

I go with the jacking the car up from the bottom of the stud. The easiest way to do any sort of removal on a soob is to soak ever bolt, nut and fastner with PB blaster or Liquid Wrench a day before you do it.. The pinch bolt should never be a problem to take of (well if you Anti-seized the top of the ball joint the last time you changed it..) I've also used a big tuning fork and a BFH before to get one off. Another way if the stud is really rusted in there, grab a sawzall cuz the stud flush with the bottom of the control arm and grab a drill and drill have b!tch outta there Tools required: Sticky greeniess case of beer both disturbed CD's

ahhh, so thats what I gotta do.. Mine does that too.. to make it not rattle, I have to hold up or down on the shifter depending on 2nd or 3rd gear...

Count me in for a calender too

hmm thats weird.. 92's have the same headlights as the 86's dont they?

alright then, if you've done it, give me a part ### for Napa.. and how did you get the old u joints out? They are removeable, but I highly doubt they are replaceable. Prove me wrong

this will save you some time and hassle takin all that stuff apart.. When you take off hte Crankshaft belt pulley, stick the 22 mm on there witha long breaker bar and prop it against the drivers side of the body panel (next to the battery, make sure it wont smash the battery though) After you have the breakerbar secure, bump your starter just a lil bit.... boom, bolt and pulley should pop right off. Your oil pump may not be needed to be replaced.. EA82's have big problems with the O rings going bad and it makes them pump a lil bit of air into the system which gives the car a ticking sound... Whats your Oil press. running?