torxxx

solenoid eh? dammit.... Time to consort the soob bible and go work on my car at -5 below zero...

sounds like its stripped.. I know people have done it with a helicoil... thats my best advice... heh or wrap some tinfoil around the threads before you put the plug back in. lol <---- Dont do that one..

Alright guys.. 86 GL Wagon 4wd EA82 w/Hitachi carb.. 5 speed man. A few weeks ago my egr light came on. I checked the EGR valve itself and it still moves like its supposed to (when I push it shut it makes my car sputter out) so I assume the valve is still good... How do I get that damn light to turn off?? (I heard theres a reset switch somewhere, but I can't find it and its not in the Haynes Manual) its really annoying driving at night with a red light shining in my eyes , plz help

heads are fuct

As far as the Dex-cool comment went, DONT USE IT IN AN OLD CAR. It is not made for it, and if you have any residue from green antifreeze in it, it will coagulate and make a nasty mess.

I have an 86 gl and I believe they run off a seperate fuse

K so drain a lil oil out, then put in a quart of ATF? or Drain the oil completely fill with 3.5 quarts and drive for 30 min? which one should I do..

I'm not too sure about the EA81 cuz I have little time with those engines and tranny's but I know the EA82 has about 8 different ends on the clutch cable so its prolly just a matter of going to a shop and looking a bunch of different cables

a/t? you mean the red stuff right? I've heard of peeps doin that to clean out their motors.. does it really work?

Ahhhhh.. that crappy stuff.. I've ran ever additive know to man.. and lucas worked the best

Replace the Wiper motor ASAP

Prolly a newb question.. but whats mmo? I'm runnign the Fram Extended Filter (good for 7000 miles) but I still change oil and filter every 2000 miles... Someone told me somewhere it might be the hydraulic valve lashers arent pumping up all the way... could this be the problem?

change your thermostat

In my 86 GL every now and then (about once a week) my motor starts ticking.. it sounds like lifters making noise but I'm not sure... It ticks until the motor gets hot.. Bout 3 hours of racing round in the snow and then the ticking slowly goes away.. I change my oil ever 2k miles. Any IdeaS?

go get a 180 F thermostat from Napa put it in, see if it fixes the problem and if it doesnt, bring the 180F back to napa

I ran into the same problem when I snapped my clutch cable and had to replace it. I have and 86 GL 4wd wagon and I ended up getting 3 cables off various soobs close to that year and none of them fit.. I ended up getting on off an 88 loyale I believe.. So check a junk yard and pull a few cables out til you find a longer one

possibly clogged heater core.. have you flushed your radiator and heater core? thermostat could be another reason... does your car leak antifreeze?

On the early soobs (80 - 84) the U-joints are somewhat replaceable. You have to take a cutting torch and cut the star away from the caps (the + looking thing that the caps press on to. after you do that, you and pound the caps out of the ears of the shaft. Then to put them back in file down the burrs that held the old caps in and press the new caps back in. 85 - 91s you have to replace the whole shaft.

Hey I drive an 1986 GL Wagon Dual Range 4WD, EA82 with that pos Hitachi carb on it... So about a year back now my oil pressure gauge quit workin and it comes on and off every now and then (doesnt work about 90 percent of the time)... Anyone else with this year of car have the same problems and if so, what had to be replaced.. The oil pressure sender or the gauge itself>?

Look behind your place for the radio, down by the floor.. There is a air powered Servo in there that pushes an Arm to the selector for Defrost, Heat and Vent. It should move when you move the selector

You can pick up a used driveshaft at a junkyard for about 80 bucks. I had vibration coming from mine and when I took the shaft out the u-joints were pretty bad and that carrier bearing on there goes out too... You could replace the front half of the shaft if you took the bearing apart.. Custom one piece would be nice, but theres a reason why that carrier bearing is there