torxxx

Sorry.bout being.short in my post. On my phone at work,forums are hell on this phone

Both are five speeds 05 uses cv axles without rollpins 01 uses rollpins. Whats my solution? 05 axles appear slightly longer and the inner wheel seal scraper is different. Inner cups are different as well. Iirc the phase 1 5mt stubs dont pop out of the tranny?

Clutch cable first. Its cheap and.takes ten minutes to.change. if that dont.fix.it check the throwout bearing

I would run 205 75s on a 14. I run them on my carbd ea82 with a welded rear diff and the engine turns them just fine. Speedo being off is easily checked via gps on your phone

I honestly cant see the cam sensor only throwing codes for 3/4. They use the same type of magnet on each spot on the cam sensor. The only thing I could see causing that is metal stuck to the magnet on the back of the pulley causing interference between the cam sensor and the pulley itself. But yea, please let us know what you find out

ahhh gotcha, I'm strictly a legacy guy lol which is why I figured they were all hub style... Wonder why Subaru did it that way? Hub seems like a lot better/simpler idea

looks like its all fiberglass. you coat whatever you dont want the stuff to stick to with car wax and glass it in. Once its dry remove it and you have your mould I like the idea of the side pod setup. I might have to do something similar in my SVX.

unbolt the hub, install new hub They should be a bolt on hub after 2004 I'm about to go back to my shop, I'll crawl under my 06 Legacy and double check

spark plug wires that are bad generally act up the most under a load. I'd start with visually inspecting your wires and check them with an OHMS meter. Also check the coil pack and make sure there isnt a ton of corrosion under the plug wire boots. Oh and next time give us a lil more info than a 2.5RS. Year helps sometimes because there is year specific issues with every type of car

skip the 2.2 and drop a EG33 in there. Thats the next thing going in my OB. the 2.5L turns 29s just fine, but I want more power!

looks good, I like the design for removing the diff if needed

So I put some scratches in my oil pan friday night, decided to take an old EA82 skidplate and refab it to work on an EJ car. Cost = nothing everything was scavenged out of the garbage Measurements = I eyeballed the skid plate, marked it with a paint marker, split the plate in half. The two mounting holes on the rear of the skidplate need to be wobbled out some (EJ mounting position is a 1/2" wider than the EA82 holes. The front is just a piece of 2x2 angle and then a 3/4" piece of angle. Buddy welded it up.

yup you need Gen 1 Outback trailing arm brackets.

56mm hub if what the subaru runs. the hubcentric part of it anyhow

scott, what about making 5x100 to 5x4.5 wheel adaptors? Hubcentric, with 1.5 inch spacing. It go REALLY good as an addon option with your 6 inch EJ kits. I'm limited at 29 inch tires on mine because of the tires hitting the spring perch on the strut. We measured it out and with the 1.5" adaptor and then the ability to use Ford Ranger rims, we have literally any offset of rim we want for these cars theres lots of options for the carb'd guys, but us EFI guys dont have a lot of options as far as intakes go. It'd be cool to see an EJ MAF engine snorkel kit. just some ideas..

I've owned both the cars you are wanting to build. I wouldnt waste a penny on ANY EA82T engines/blocks. They are grenades with the pins pulled. The bottom end was not designed to handle 6 psi, let alone 17 psi. You are going to be putting a LOT of money into a dinosaur engine. If you like turbo's and wanted to build an engine that would last (which is kind of an oxy moron with a forced induction engine) I would get ahold of a EJ22T. The bottom ends are some of the strongest subaru designed, they will hold 20psi boost if built right and there is a lot of information, tried/tested on the EJ22T Building a EA82T now a days would be like buying an STi and putting a carb on it..

nah, no need for rear brake shoe pics. Just do one side at a time. When you go to put together the first side, you pull off the rotor on the other side so you can visually look at the brake set up. Its rule #1 when it comes to brake shoes. Never tear down both sides, only one side til its back together

I just gotta yard the dash out of my 95 LSL. I've already got the intake on my 91 so I have the EGR temp and sol sensors installed, just unplugged atm. Pm me a price on what you'd charge to strip the harness down Scott. I've got entirely too much going on up here right now to sit down and shred some wires. Not to mention I hate wiring lol Unless you want the entire car, I just need to get my passport and a drum of fuel

If I can find someone that can help me do the wiring harness side of the swap, I really want to weld all the lift blocks together so nothing can shift, and put my EG33 and 4.44 4EAT in it. Then that my car would be fun. Its fun now, but until i tie all the lift blocks together its only going in the mud. The 5 speed is fun, but I'd rather be able to build pressure in a 4EAT and roll 3 mph rather than hit it at 10 mph cuz I hate riding my clutch. Spare tire hole thing under the rear carpet needs to go as well. I want to box that in with some plate steel and make a box where I can put my handyman and tools. And then that would give the reciever hitch somewhere to bolt into thats not just folded tac-welded sheet metal. Skid plate, I think welding a pipe together between the front tow hooks and then bolting a 4 runner front skid plate (one that is like 4 or 6 inches long and has a curve to it) that will protect the radiator support. From there I need to just start sizing up metal and welding together an oilpan skid plate that will tie into the pipe between the tow hooks. Lots to do...

4 link to the rear, 3 link to the front I think is what McBrat did. grind off all the undercoating off the bottom of the car and weld a piece of 3 inch sched 40 pipe to the bottom of the car on both sides and then weld in your cross bar for the 4 link Let me know where you get with it, I've got a set of Landcruiser axles and a frame and a loyale sitting at the shop, I've been wanting to get them mounted up so make 2x of all the pieces you install on yours so you can sell me the extra set

I like the bar you welded in your car Tron, Mine is a one piece bracket on each side (where yours is 2 double stacked blocks) but I still plan on doing exactly what you did, but I'm doing it at every lift block I can run a straight piece of tubing to. I love this lift, its just like driving a stock toyota pickup now. Even sounds just like a Toy with the back half of the exhaust off

06 uses a very similar strut to the 00. I was looking at a 07 today at work, figuring out to do a 6 inch lift and then a strut lift on top of it. As for strut length (we use the forester struts/springs on the older OB's to lift them), so I'm not sure if it still applies to the Gen 4 OB/Gen 2 FOZ. If you could find the spring length and strut length compressed and fully extended, that would show if the suspension side of it would work. As for the strut body length, goto napa and pull out front and rear struts for both cars and compare the strut body lengths And you are 69 and still surfing?!?! Thats awesome

ya it sure does look like a Rav 4 after looking at the pics a few times

If you are gonna use an additive and not just reg oil, I'm sayin avoid PTFE and roll with Moly. GM coated their entire engines with Moly when they started making the 5.3L Vortec engine and I've seen those run to well over 250k miles with 0 bottom end noise. Moly makes the engines frictionless, meaning the internals dont have to work as hard. as for stop leak for cooling systems, dont use it. It has a salt based chemical in it that causes the aluminum to corrode (have a 96 OB 2.5L tore down at work right now and I was shocked to see the amount of damage its done to the coolant passages) Fix what ever is leaking and change coolant every 20k miles and you'll be fine. As for trans additives, I refuse to use it anymore. TransX killed my SVX tranny. Octane boost, makes your fuel more acidic so I avoid that as well. There is only one octance boost type additive thats worth using and I dont know if they even make it anymore. Its called Valv-Tech. When GM first started making the 496 marine engine, they required owners to use that additive because the pump fuel available was too low octane (engine needed 95 oct to run normally)

most of it will swap over. the tail lights/headlights/markerlights/grill are gonna be the biggest issue. Other than that, the cars were the same. Almost all EA81 bodies, as long as they are the same body type 95% of the stuff should swap. 3 door coupe ---> 3 door coupe Sedan --> sedan wagon --> wagon as far as the body parts go. underneath is a diff story. The struts will bolt up, engine/trans/rear diff are all the same as long as its an EA81 setup. I dont mess with teh EA71 stuff so I'm not sure but I think 81 was the last year of the EA71 as far as the cars in America. And if the 86 is in good shape, no rust I say jump all over it. They are becoming more sought after than the wagons are (at least here in Alaska. There is literally 0 EA81 sedans left alive up here, but theres a half a dozen EA81 hatches in my city and I've seen people pay 2500-3k for a nice hatch)