torxxx

you can get 14 inch steel pugs (thats whats on my lifted 86) its got 25.5 inch tires and I have no issue turning those in 2wd on the highway. My 300k+ carb'd EA82 engine is whats limiting going over 80mph or so. With a SPFI engine you shouldnt have any problems. I've ran my car on the same engine and trans for 7 years (daily driver and weekend beat on rig) Keep in mind if you use the 14 inch pugs you will need to use 3/16" washers as spacers to keep the calipers from rubbing. one washer per lug should do it just fine. I've never had an issue with them coming lose from running a washer behind the wheel. And remember your mileage is gonna goto dog dookie. I think my EA82 gets maybe 18 mph, if that with the carb @ highway speeds. I think it actually uses less gas offroad since there is no major load on the engine. The EA82 will hold 5000 rpms all day long, its been tried and tested by most of us. Remember a redline a day keeps the mechanic away

in 88 they switched to a disty that used a connector instead of a set of wires with ring terminals on it. if its a snap on cap its a carb engine/disty if it screws down its a EFI engine/disty. The only difference I've noticed between 87 and 88 was that connector and it can simply be spliced onto the new one, or eliminated all together. There is no need for a diff ecu or harness, just get a wiring diagram of the 87 and the 88 and make the connector work If you have a 2 wire disty, its carb'd btw. All EA82 EFI used a 4 wire disty. One more thing, if its got a vacumn advance on it with a vac port (single one its carb'd) if its a vac advance with 2 vac ports on it, its a 85/86 EFI disty (avoid those I've had so many problems with their early crank angle system in those distys)

There is one port on the rear of the carb (IIRC it points towards the passenger side of the car and its just to the drivers side of center. it comes out and then has a 90 degree bend on it. That one has to be left open its a vent tube. Other than that, all the rest on a hicrappy carb can be blocked off. Make sure your accelerator pump pivot screw has the spacer washer behind the linkage arm where it screws to the front of the carb. Last time I rebuild mine, I lost that spacer on the floor and didnt realize it until I started the car and it was stuck @ 1500 rpms and would not drop past there. What that spacer does, is allow the arm to pivot, and without the spacer it binds when you let off the throttle TBI you need a TBI fuel pump, the wiring harness on the engine bay side, and the under the dash section that runs the ECU (you might as well swap the entire dash, its easier that pulling the harness out of the dash) and then you need the intake. Keep in mind EFI has a baffle in the fuel tank, carb doesnt so keep your tank about 1/4 at all times so that EFI pump dont suck air and you will have to run a wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump. I might have forgotten a few things, but I'm sure someone will correct me

ok, I had some time off during work hours today, so I snuck to the junkyard and found 2 R180/R200 ( I can never remember what Nissan used, I just know our Subaru diffs unless they are STi are R160s) These are the style that used the ujoint based rear axles (independent rear suspension) I know I've seen a lot of talk about how these were sought after because there is a ARB air locker available for the bigger Nissan diff. With winter coming, I'm trying to scavenge all the parts I need for my winter projects. Ideally I'd like to get ahold of both diffs so I can build 2 of them one for me and one for my buddies lifted EJ22T Outback SS. Who if anyone has used one of these in a Subaru? and if so, what was done to solve the CV axle to ujoint axle issue? I know everyone says that CV shafts aren't supposed to be cut and rewelded, but in all honesty on an offroad rig I cant really see it being an issue because its not like they get ran down the highway at 65 mph to and from work. Our cars are strickly drive 2 miles from the shop to the flats where we go wheeling.

276-horsepower, 2.0-liter twin-scroll turbocharged four.... dissapointment... Twin scroll exhaust and turbo can be put on the Gen 2 Forester XT. Its not like twin scroll is something new, JDM stuff has had it since what 93' when the 22B came out? If they are gonna put a turbo on the forester, why not do some ground breaking design like and STi forester? If I were to buy one, (and thats a big IF, I cant stand new stuff) I wouldnt buy one unless it had the 300+ hp 2.5L in it. Dont get me wrong, I think its awesome that they are making a 250+ hp forester, but with it sittin @ 276 hp, why not just buy an older XT forester and put a FMIC on it and a bigger turbo and you just passed 275 hp.

I love this car. that was less than 5 minutes playing on the edge of our big pit. The power the 2.5L makes compared to the EA82 engine is day and night. No longer do I have to hold that pedal to the floor and pray I keep moving. Even with the 29" tires, its just floor it let off floor it let off. Cant wait for the welded center diff and rear diff

Glad you guys didnt get hurt

Alright lift was on in just under 8 hours Wednesday night. I got so caught up in trying to get my 31x10.5s to fit that I wasted 2 days on searching my city high and low for wheel spacers or 5x100 to 5x4.5 hub adapters. Friday night after work we finished the steering shaft, pitch stopper, shift bracket drop, carrier bearing drop brackets, hoses (lower rad hose was the worse part.) I had to use a 2.2: air intake (used the half that attaches to the throttle body) and then spliced 2.5L half to the airbox. AC lines stayed attached (my compressor is bad, I should just removed it all) driver side heater hose had to be extended, passenger side was long enough. Grounds, I already had done previous and left them long enough for the lift. I had to use washers to space the rear wheels out far enough to spot rubbing on the struts. Other than that, I'm running the front half of the exhaust until Saturday when I get my exhaust bend up between the driveline and the tub of the car. Sittin on 235/75/15s (stock subaru wheels, going to switch to 5x4.5 Ranger wheels) I'll get pics up one of these days

is the story of how all you managed to do the on the roof inspection on the other thread too?

buy the glass yourself and save yourself some $. That window retails for about 80 bucks. so safelite is charging you 150 to install it? hell come to alaska I'll do it for a case of beer Windsheilds are the biggest scam out there in the automotive world. You need emery cloth, pinchweld primer and the activator for the glass. The prep takes about as long as it does to cut out the old window. Anywhere theres rust on the window seam gets sanded down and primed. you take the emery cloth and lightly surface the bonding surface on the window, then cover where you prepped on the glass with activator. As long as you do it in 60-80F weather around 20-50% humidity and let the glue cure for a few hours, one should have NO issues with doin their own windows. P.S. ---- Gen 1 and Gen 2 legacy windows can be cut out with JUST a long knife (2 foot long handle that double sided razor blades attach in the end) tool costs ~20$ USD @ most parts stores and its a nice tool. I've used my long knife for tons of engine/trans pulling. one quick swipe and the hoses are sliced.

yah I'd def. put the DR in the loyale and refurbish the coupe. I like how in your state u can get vintage plates er w/e they are called on an 86. I've been trying to do that for a while now with my 86 wagon (650k+ miles on the body) It aint pretty but the fact that its done 300k+ on 2 different engines tells me it wants to stay registered for a while lol. btw that coupe back glass, I've had guys pay 500+ dollars for that liftgate+window at my junkyard, and I think we sold the last one 2 years ago (if that tells you how hard they are to find) I've had 3 or 4 coupes with no rear gates for a while lol

early 97 and 98 had a difference in the TQ and the input shafts. You need to match the TQ with the tranny. If you are installing the 98 trans you need the 98 TQ. Search around, theres a thread somewhere on here that shows a picture of the differences. IIRC you can swap out the center input shafts just make sure the output ends are the same (end that goes into the trans) All 2.5L use the same size flex plate. the difference in size is with the 2.2L. Even with the phase 2 trans, the flex plate off the 2.5L fits the phase 1 trans on a 2.5L

you want the rear control arms/hub assemblies/disc brakes off of a EA82 Turbo. Its a waste of time doing a conversion and putting the stock N/A drums back there. EA's are underbraked to begin with, so adding the turbo rear discs help when ur running bigger tires. Only axle difference is the front axles and the deciding factor is turbo/non turbo non turbo = 23 spline turbo - 25 spline you have a big project in front of you if you wanna offroad it. I say find a 87-89 4wd SPFI and build a lift. The amount of time converting to 4wd and then lifting. I say fix the major stuff and drive it the way it is and look for a 4wd version of the coupe if you are really set on a coupe. gotta remember that back window is huge, you hit a hole hard enough it will shatter that window

shift linkage I forgot about, pitch stopper/steering shaft is easy, cut slide pipe over the ends, install and tack weld the pipe in place and then do a complete burn. The shift linkage should be able to be the stock length if I drop down that square rubber bushing bracket that bolts to the tunnel correct? As for the brake lines, you have a part #/brand used? I was just gonna cut my brake line holders off my struts and let em hang for now. Exhaust hangers I think I'm just gonna triple up the factory ones bolting them end to end Doesnt look like I will get the my other box of parts until tommorow, postal service screwed my weekend up by dropping off one box friday.

Well, I got the first box of the lift (hopefully USPS doesnt screw me and not deliver the other box tommorow) Looks like I have a busy weekend coming up. She'll be sittin on 30.9s when I'm done. Cant wait! Now that the times come, who with the 6 inch lift has some radiator hose part numbers for me? tryin to save myself a bunch of trips to the parts store once we start throwin the car together. Will post before and after pics of the car.

if you have access to a tube bender, you could tie in tubes to the 4 12mm bolt support across the cross member. you'd have 2 coming down like an A arm style, with the peak of the A attaching @ the cross member. they have the pipe run forward about 6 or 8 inches and then start your bend upwards and tie it into a cross bar thats bolted to the bottom of your core support (radiator support) then cut 2 pieces of sheet metal, one to fit the front side of the bend and one to fit the bottom side. I've gotta do a similar skidplate on my car so I guess which one of us gets it done first posts the pics eh? Oh and remember, you want a bolt on skid plate. NOT welded on. It is nice to be able to take out 6 or 8 bolts and be able to get under your engine

In the process of bass proofing my car. Decided against Dynomat because of how spendy it is, and the fact that you have to heat it for the glue to activate. bought Hushmat and I'm amazed at how well it works. Paint sticks inbetween the roof and the roof supports holds it tight and then cover the ENTIRE inner side of the roof with hushmat. I'm gonna do the rear gate this weekend if my lift doesnt get here by tommorow. Has anyone figured out a dome light that doesnt rattle? I've checked all years/makes models and I cant find one with a good enough design. The plastic trim panels seem to clip in tight enough that they dont appear to be rattling. I might leave the headliner out since its just that cheesey felt/cardboard crap and it doesnt really insulate the car at all. I imagine having the hushmat against the metal probably insulates from cold better than the felt did. What else am I forgetting to check? I didnt notice anything inside the doors causing noise, but if someone knows of a panel that comes loose or needs to be reglued please let me know. I really dont want any rattles when I finally break down and buy http://www.jlaudio.com/13w7-d1-5-car-audio-w7-subwoofer-drivers-92113 to go in the back.

If you are running a loyale, SVX headlights can be used. They do take some modification but it has been done on here before. Tycho (I think thats his username) did it on a GL wagon back in the day. I remember seeing his car on the local ice track and I was shocked at how bright his headlights were, and the fact that he had 3 bulbs lit on each side of the car. SVX light uses a projector lowbeam, a h4 fog light and then a reflected highbeam, so you could actually run triple HID setups on it. Xentecs are 35 bucks a pair, lifetime warranty. I've used them for a winter of -60F and had zero issues

thing looks wicked. Solid axle subaru looks like it'd be fun to wheel.. We might start a project similar to that this winter with an EA82 body

If a plugwire is misfiring to the point where its actually idling rough and not just having a EJ25D stutter, you should be able to hear the spark grounding out. Check the coilpack tips as well, they like to turn green if you live anywhere with any moisture.

An SVX in NICE shape is worth a bit of money, problem is the collector side of things, there is already a bunch of nice expensive ones out there. goto http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/index.php and take a look around on there. I own a early 92 SVX and I'm more tempted to yard out the EG33 and put it in my outback. #1, OB is a hell of a lot lighter than the SVX. #2 5 doors > 3 doors. #3 SVX parted out is worth more than it is sitting complete.

they are press fit bearings ---> knuckle and then the hubs need pressed back into the knuckle/bearing Unless you've done a wheel bearing on another car before, I wouldnt recommend doing it yourself. It gets spendy when you start ruining bearings or the knuckle

have you verified that your crank pulley didnt separate? Its a common issue on the EG33 engines because of the amount of HP. Nothing goes to say that an OB wont do the same thing. Powersteering puts the most load on the belt system, so if that pulley separated @ the center of it, its allowing the outer edge to slip and then regrab what little bit of edge is left where it separated. Take a paint marker or finger nail polish and put two marks on your crank pulley, then go drive it around the block and then shut it back off. The lines you painted should still be lined up.

and yes scott, the TQ/flexplate etc will bolt up on the EG33. All it is, is basically 1.5x 2.2L's. Almost like they chopsawed a motor in have, took #3 and #4 cylinders and welded the cases together lol. Keep me in the loop on your swap, I have a 91 SVX sitting in my driveway that I dont really want to drive anymore, I'd like to see it in my OB with your lift on it