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+1 on the replacing all coolant lines. No need for specific part #'s. Go buy 6 feet of 5/8" (for the heater core hoses and the coolant bypass off the water pump. The turbo coolant like "should" be 1/2" (been a while since I dicked with a RX) Timing belts, yea would be cool to check but its a non interference motor. so you wont be hurting anything if the belt breaks. If you are gonna do belts afterall, might as well do oil pump seals/front seal/cam seals/cam seal holder 0-ring. Flush all the old coolant out, oil change in the engine/gearbox/diffs I was gonna say to really watch the tailpipe after the engine warms up, but yours should have Gen2 or Gen3 EA82T heads on it so the coolant jacket cracking into the exhaust port isnt near as common on the 89. Nice score, if you decide to get rid of it or part it out I want the tranny!

dont use a screwdriver to turn the calipers in. goto ANY parts store and buy the little square screw in caliper adapter thing. its like 10 bucks, its got tabs on all sides of the square to fit just about any make/model of screw in brake calipers. When you pull the pad bracket off, make sure to not lose the lock washers that are on the 17mm bolts. if you lose those, it allows the bolts to run INTO the brake rotors. (I found this out the hardway the first time I did my breaks 15 years ago) make sure to look at how the piston in teh caliper sits as well, if I remember right the slots in the caliper will sit horizontal. it has to be in that position for the caliper to slide over the new pads. The hub and rotor will stay as one piece during removal. Once you get the rotor off and on the ground you can pull out the 4x14mm bolts and it will separate the rotor from the hub its self. The tool I'm talking about looks similar to this, but its a square with similar tabs sticking off each side. they fit on a 3/8" rachet. Goto where the Evercraft tools are @ napa and you'll find the little square thing I'm talking about http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER41546_0060787241

What intake did you use? If you used the 2001 Automatic intake, that could be the problem. 5 speed uses a different idle air controller than the 4EAT does. wondering if thats your issue. both IACS will bolt up, but there is differences between the two at least in the Gen 1 EJ18 and EJ22

yah I was gonna say, I've stood on the roof of my OB, but I wouldnt drive down the road with 180 lbs on the roof.

thx for the info on bbslegacy. I never knew about that site lol. Normally if I can't figure it out, and no one on USMB can I give up. I found a writeup on the TD05. I'll look tomorrow and see which turbo I have. The fuel cut defender doesnt look too hard to make, and I saw there is a few performance chips guys are running in the EJ22T modified stuff. Funny story about that EJ22T. We put a 4.44 4EAT in it, Outback lift blocks/struts and my buddy decided tonite that it SHOULD go anywhere my 98 OB with forester struts will. Hehehehe we'll just say he made it half way across the river crossing trying to follow me. Snapped my strap and chain trying to get him out. managed to get him back about 30 feet before I went and got my buddies mud truck to get him out. Once we got him on dry land, his passenger front wheel was locked up. Jammed full of gravel between the rim and caliper.

Questions for you turbo hounds. I scored all the forced induction stuff off a 04 Baja turbo when I converted it to N/A for a customer. I refuse to build anything turbo so I gave the stuff to a buddy for his 91 SS. Questions are: What all needs to be modified to make the 2.5L turbo/interocooler work? It looks fairly bolt up to me, but I figured I'd ask anyways. As far as fuel management goes, the computer should compensate for the air to air being added. What if any are the differences between the EJ22T turbo and the EJ25 turbo? setting it in the car, it appears slightly bigger but it might just be my eyes playing with me. They are both TD04's correct? We also scored a 3.5" bellmouth downpipe off a buddies STi and we were thinking about using that. What effects are we gonna see on ODB 1 not seeing a cat there anymore? Thanks guys

check the vac solenoids on the left front strut tower. between the strut tower and the firewall there is 2 solenoids. make sure one of the vac lines didnt pop off. the lines swell over time so they dont slide on tight over the nipple

not true about the 2.5 being a 4.44. The only 4.44 2.5L was in the forester. The US Outback came with a 4.11 4EAT in it. 2.2L was a 3.9 4EAT. Any 90-99 4EAT should interchange, just make sure you know the final drive ratio. I always keep the rear diff with the tranny when I do my swaps unless I know 100% what already in the rear. And you use the torque converter that came with the donor trans.

Im starting to think it has.to.be a bent pin on the main bulkhead connector. Told the boss i wont do anything with it til.he gets me a new.harness faster to change the harness rather than check every pin

The rx hax center diff control also. I might have one.of.those laying around at the shop. Tear down time!

ahh ok, I totally forgot about the change in the cam sensor notches on the drivers side cam pulley. Still stuck with no CEL whats so ever. tried 2 different clusters both with working CEL lights (good bulbs) and the fact that I cant communicate with the computer is my big worry. Cam sensors/pulleys a side, the ECU should still communicate and pop a cam sensor code if the wrong year of pulley/sensor is installed.

Jackstand under the front passenger side of the car (use the "frame" they have thats a foot in from the pinch weld) I've seen too many pinchwelds pushed in, smashed in or with holes in it from people dropping the car on jackstands on the pinchweld. I know it sounds weirds telling you to jack up the front. I never jack up the rear of the car onto jack stands when I do a driveline or a tranny. Just the front comes up, and then the rear tire just enough to spin the tire and set it back on the floor. You should have enough room with just the passenger front all the way up on the jackstand. I do it this way so the rear e-brake holds the rear wheels from moving, therefore no reason to block the front tires. With the passenger front up, take your jack and jack up the rear diff. spin the tires til the 2 bolts you couldnt get to are pointing towards the floor. Drop the rear wheel back down to the floor, slide under and remove the other 2 bolts. Honestly I highly recommend buying a pair of jackstands. You can get a cheap set of them at walmart for 30 or 40 bucks. If you own a subaru and intend on doing any work on it yourself, jackstands are a must

Got a job at work, that I cant seem to figure out. Long story short, I had to swap a 2002 OB wiring harness/ecu into a 2000 OB. I've got no CEL with KOEO, cant communicate with the ECU via the ALDL connector = no start Is there a difference in the harness between a 2000 and a 2002? Everything appeared the same when I did the swap. All relays/modules/computers were a direct plug in. Only thing I can think of in my head is that the pinouts must be different at one or more connectors. I've done a 2004 Turbo baja to a 2002 N/A swap last year and everything worked just fine, So I'm stumped on whats keeping the ECU powering up and showing its alive Another thing is I'm having a hard time finding a FSM for the 2000-2004 cars. I've found bits and pieces but I really could use a full wiring diagram of the entire car. Any help/advice is appreciated PS - reason for swap was some tweaker cut the entire wiring harness under the passenger side of the dash in half. I wont get into anymore details other than it was easier to swap the entire harness from one car to another than it was to replace/reconnect the 50+ broken/ripped/cut wires

I've NEVER seen a 4EAT (phase 1 and phase 2) ever leak out the wiring seal. The dipstick tube is right next to it and I've seen quite a few of those leak. If someone bent the tube installing or removing the starter or disconnecting the Trans cooler lines, the flange will be bent and the o-ring wont seal up.

Empi Axles are the best "non OE" axle made. http://www.showmetheparts.com/EMPI/ As for the hissing, the air intake is made of cheap plastic and has air chamber and resonator that either slip together or have 2 aluminum rivets holding it together. You could have one of those disconnected. Make sure the Airbox housing clamp to the throttle body is tight. Since you say its random, are you sure its not belt squeal or a bearing going out on the AC belt tensioner? the AC clutch will make noise too when/if the bearing starts to fail in the AC pump

well I'm gonna semi-hijack this thread lol VC aside, and I'm sure GD will know the answer to this but other than getting a Gravel Spec Center Diff and the DCCD controller, is there any other form of Center Diff that we can install on the 5 speed? I'm getting really close to turning my OB into my offroad toy and the VC isnt going to cut it. Unfortunately I dont have access to any WRX 5MTs and/or the 6MT

I know this is an older post, but it made me wonder.. With the tablets available today and being as cheap as they are, wouldnt it be easier to copy the data from the ECU to a tablet where you would be able to modify data on the fly? I dont really see the point in using a serial data port anymore, when there is a lot new and improved ways of communicating to the engine/trans. It'd almost be like the banks power programmer (the palm pilot one) on a diesel. You have your normal driving fuel maps, rally fuel maps, dump raw fuel on the ground fuel maps etc. thoughts?

http://www.toolsource.com/axle-tool-subaru-p-134649.html Dont buy snap on. Buy what the dealerships use. its 15 bucks and its shouldered so you dont have to hold the pin when reinstalling it

I ran my lifted 86 with the pins out before. Once I realized what could happen if the axle slid off the shaft @ high speed, I put the pins in.. Remember the gas tank is directly above your diff..

goto sears and buy a 7/32" roll pin punch. They cost bout 7 bucks. I've seen people break off drillbits in there and then it makes it real fun taking it out. Its like using an easyout when you should have just welded a nut onto the broken bolt. You just end up spending more time trying to fix a "shortcut"

The safest place to dispose of antifreeze is down the drain. (Attached to a city sewage line, NOT IN A STORM DRAIN) Now a days most water treatment plants (sewage plants) are setup to handle glycol. We have a recycling place in town, but it takes them so long to getting around to picking up full barrels of recycled antifreeze, that most people dont bother

One thing to remember, the outback is just a legacy with spacers/slightly taller springs and a little bit of a "strut tube" extension. Your CV axles may wear slightly faster if didnt use the Outback cross member spacers, but in all honestly i dont see you having ANY issues The brake issue, see how your car stops before throwing $ at upgrading calipers/pad bracket/rotors etc. Remember us older gen guys are running bigger tires than you, on 12 inch single pot brake calipers and some with drum brakes in the rear. You know your car better than anyone, get up to 80 mph and do some emergency braking and see how she handles. I imagine it will be just fine. Oh and for the sway bar bracket, it should be bolt on. We just did the outback conversion to a 91 EJ22T SS and the rear came off with 2x12mm bolts. If yours isnt removeable, find a gen 1 Outback and unbolt the rear brackets and weld them onto your crossmember

grab a BFH and hammer the hell out of the starter. (Note: you might only get a few cranks out of it, but then again the starter in my 86 wagon has worked for 6 months after having to slap the S@%# out of it)

The EJ25D takes less than 45 minutes to change the plugs.. 5/8" plug socket on a 3/8" drive 3/8" drive wobbly adapter and a low profile 3/8" ratchet Back to your symptoms. a dying TPS and/or a dying MAF will cause similar issues. My EG33 did that hesitation/surge thing when my MAF died.