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the RX and the XT6 use completely different suspension. XT6 = Impreza suspension RX = EA82 suspension. The RX most likely had a 5 lug swap done if they used impreza springs

you dont even have to remove the back half of the drive line. (not to mention a lot of the drivelines have the cv joint shaft in the middle not the flange to flange like the Loyales and what not) Take the 6 14mm bolts out of the rear diff bracket (ones that hide the driveline flange) pull the 4 12mm bolts that connect the driveline to the rear diff, seperate the flanges and then reinstall the cover. it will make some noises but it wont hurt anything. We've towed cars with a front wheel dolly from Canada to Alaska that way, nothing got hurt. And i wouldnt really worry about the center diff for now. Get your engine back in, and go drive the car. Thats the only REAL way to test it

yea but if u take the key out, how are u supposed to listen to music with the doors open?

ok, we need to have the WCSS up here in Alaska one of these years... That way I dont have to drive all that way... Looks like you guys had fun.. One of these years I will get down there. Might have to just buy a subaru in Washington from Scott, thats already lifted so I have an excuse to show up

ahhh yours is the one on scotts website. Well I got the forester struts/springs installed. used 98-01 front KYB Excels, 02-04 KYB GR-2 Rears. I got bored and decided to bolt on 30" tires on to it at work the other day... Front fits and barely rubs @ full lock. had to buddies sit on the front bumper to compress the suspension and somehow, it doesnt rub on the bumper. So close to having all the $ for the lift. Starting to get excited now. After 8 years of wheeling my 72 hp Ea82, having this 155 hp with the EJ25D is gonna be nice. Oh, and I scored a Nissan divorced T-case and drivelines this weekend... (Got the full running truck for 250) Kinda thinking about putting the solid axle in the rear.... Guess I should get the damn car lifted first before thinkin bout that stuff LOL Thanks for the tips. appreciate it

google empi they have a website. As for blaming the lift for destroying stuff, I honestly dont think its the lift's fault. Are you 100% sure you put all the stuff on the correct sides? And did you have your alignment set after the lift? I've had my EA82 lifted since 2003 or 2004 and I beat the everliving S@#% out of my car, and I have done 1 CV axle in the front. My front lift is a AA 4 Inch lift with Honda accord front springs on my rear struts. the rear ends up being almost 5.5 inches with those stupid springs on there, and I NEVER have axle issues. The only time I've had to replace a rear axle was after losing the boot and driving it for a few years. My car has never had the alignment done to it, Its had 2 sets of tires put on it (both used sets btw, I never buy new tires) It was my daily driver until 2 years ago. It gets taken out several times during the week and gets trashed and parked wet. I've ripped the transmission/radius rod brackets clean out of the floor several times. So any of the issues I had, was never with the lift, it was with weaknesses within the car. Never broke a engine mount/tranny mount/dog bone since I started driving this car 15 years ago. If you put reman napa axles in it, you'll be replacing them often. Buy a subaru or empi axle, problem solved. I would take a look at your radius rods/bushings. I've seen those wear out, and they will let your control arms walk forwards/backwards and that could put extra stress on the axles.

There is a thread somewhere on here about using Ford Tempo front springs on the front of a Loyale. Search for it its on the site somewhere

To Get rid of EJ series Door chime: Remove plastic trim around multifunction switch/ignition switch find the black and black/white wire going to a little switch on the side of the ignition lock assembly. Cut one of the two wires. By doing this, it stops the chime completely when the key is in the ignition

all I've ever done is jam a 3/8" extension down through the access hole for removing the TQ bolts. turn the engine over til u see one of the holes in the flex plate, jam that extension in there and have someone hold it. It will wedge itself between the bellhousing/flexplate. Or go rent/buy the crank pulley wrench (3 pin, a GM water pump wrench usually fits on the holes) Doing it with a crank pulley wrench, there is literally ZERO chance of damaging someone on the engine. I dont recommend a chain wrench on the crank because it will damage the grooves for the belts.

Gonna start my bumper project soon. Anyone have measurements and angles for wrap around bumpers front and rear? Figured some one has made on on an automated bender and has the measurements

Got it tore down, #3 rod bearing... I guess I shoulda known that from all the EJ25D stuff I've come across. 1, 2 and 4 started to score a little, but on #3 you could see copper/brass or w/e sits behind the silver polishing on the bearings. Mains looked ok. Only Fubar part I came across was one of the sealing bolts grabbed some threads and stripped on the last 5/8" of the threads. I think it can be tapped, there is still a lot of good thread left below it. I guess its time to research rods/bearings/pistons/rings. I'm half tempted to build this engine to supercharge. Either way, I'm dumping the block/crank etc off @ the machine shop, let them look at it and tell me what they think.

2.5 has a longer stroke and is an interference engine. You would have to assemble it, leave the spark plugs out, and SLOWLY turn the engine over until one pistol is @ TDC and then fully open the valves and look down the spark plug hole with a borescope and see if they hit. I say why mess with making a frankenstein motor when the EJ22 was one of the better designed engines? I'd rather have a EJ22 that I could break a timing belt on all day long and not bend valves, over a EJ25 hybrid engine that bends valves when the belt jumps time. And BTW, Coppercoat isnt designed for all metal gaskets. That stuff was created for the old Graphite style head gaskets found on the EA82s. The one rule that I always stick to, if its got a metal gasket, you put it on dry. No sealer , no RTV, no Right Stuff (that goes for almost any gasket on the engine.) Never reuse a gasket or a seal. They are cheap enough that its pointless to put together an engine reusing old crap. I've started using the FelPro blue metal gaskets and have had ZERO issues with them leaking/causing HG leaks

I caught this one earlier enough, I think the block is probably reuseable. Wasnt bad, decided to pull it before it got worse. No metal in the pan or on the screen. I did notice 2 of the 5 oil pump bolts on the back side of the pump were loose. I'm assuming this caused low oil pressure and caused one of the main bearings to go? I've never bothered tearing a EJ25D block all the way down to look at the designs in the case to see how the oil system functions. I'm about to split the case when I get back to work from lunch but i wanted to find out what were the common points of failure on this style of block? MY1998 block w/135k miles. Oil was clean, hardly any sludge anywhere in the engine. I'm thinking about rebuilding the block this winter as a living room project, mainly to teach myself how to rebuild the bottom end. And it would be nice to have a spare EJ25D for my Outback. Thoughts? Advice? Thanks

no Red Heat = Isopropyl Alcohol - so its literally the same as the 99% rubbing alcohol you can buy in grocery stores. Yellow Heat = Methyl Alcohol - doesnt eat carb seals/gaskets and you can buy this stuff in bulk. I buy it by the gallon can @ the paint shop. Stabil = Hydrotreated light naphthenic distillate solvent extract and some other crap in it. Heet isnt really made for fuel storage over time. Depending on what you are wanting to do, I'd use yellow heat for short term storage (and daily driving) If you are storing for 6 months or more, use Stabil

a 2.2L with a hard to reach sparkplug?????? all you gotta do is pull the 2 10mm bolts out of the washer res. and move the res out of the way. And as far as saying someone bullied someone on here? You came to us for advice. We gave you advice its your choice to take it or leave it. Some of us have been on this board for 5 to 10 years, owned every make and model of subaru and most of us wrench on our own cars. When you post with 30 posts and someone with 2k+ posts suggests something, I would listen to them.

relays are under the hood in the main fuse box. Theres 2 fan fuses, a main fan relay and 1 ac fan relay IIRC. I would tell him to cut the wires to his fan and direct wire them for the rest of the drive. Driving down south, its not gonna hurt to overcool the engine. It will still be running above 165F coolant temp, but the thermostat will regulate the temp enough. When the thermostat is closed you arent circulating through the radiator, so its not gonna do any damage other than maybe wear the fans out faster. They are a 3 wire I think. Low speed High speed and ground. Hook them up backwards, fan spins backwards. I say run them both on high speed, you could tie the two fan wiring together (just make sure he leaves enough pigtail on the connector to splice it back to factory when he gets where he is ending his drive at) This is just a temp solution, I would suggest getting the fan issue solved once hes there. 15 feet of wire, 2 aligator clips and 4 butt connectors and hes back on the road

my $ is on bad cv axles. front axles cost 65 bucks a piece after the core charge is credited (meaning you bring the old axles to the parts store and turn them in when u get the new ones) The only other thing that moves with the rotation of the tires is the wheel bearings, and the front differential. If the wheel bearings are bad you will notice top/bottom play if you jack up one side of the car and shake the tire. I doubt its causing the vibration Have you checked your front differential oil at all? If theres any metal in the oil, you could be about to lose a front diff. I've been seeing lots of Phase 2 4EAT's at work lately with bad front diffs

I'm really starting to wonder if its a ECU issue that causes the code. I've seen the cat code pop on a car with a new installed factory cat. (I installed it on a customers car, verified the cat was intact before I installed it) I honestly think that someone with a programming background could rewrite the software in the TCU to make it so the test it runs for P0420 with less strict parameters. I've seen too many EJ25s run just fine and have cat codes. And the poopy thing is having the fuel cut on a 5 speed or fail safe on a 4EAT and not being able to shift all 4 gears... All because of a silly false positive code..

not a single problem on my SVX. 98 Forester 4.44 4EAT, used the converter from the SVX so I had the high stall converter and used the SVX TCU. Actually shifts harder from 1-2 shift than the 3.54 trans did. Still has the 2-3 delay and the 3-4 delay, but you cant really get rid of that without installing a Quick change, or running with the resistor pack disconnected. And its "technically" not a new >>> Old swap because its still the Phase 1 4EAT in the 98 forester. 99 went to the Phase 2. As far as I know, you cant swap the Phase 1 and Phase 2 (someone on the board may have done it, but I imagine it was a wiring harness/tcu swap involved along with a longer drive line) Btw car has 20k miles on it since the swap and I'd never roll with any 4EAT unless its a 4.44

I'm pretty sure its a viscous coupler in a 5 speed. How mechanically inclined are you? I actually like taking apart the EJ 5 speeds. I'd rather do them than do head gaskets on a EJ25D. If you can read a factory diagram and have a decent memory they arent too bad to do. I would suggest rebuilding it. That way you can replace the input shaft seal and the 2 bearings that like to wear out. And you'll be able to check your gears for abnormal wear http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/viscous_coupling.htm that kinda explains how it works

Air hammer hasnt failed me yet

thx GD, I had a feeling you'd know the answer to that one

700$??? I priced one at the local stealership here for 379

no you dont need a t-case with anything over 6 inches. It takes 6 inch lift + subframe to mount a t-case under that style car is what I think you are referring to. I would suggest dropping the radius rods 3 or 4 inches and then extending the radius rods a bit, or make some adjustable ones. and no need to double stack engine mounts just drop your engine x-member down and extend your steering shaft, Unless you are designing custom CV axles, the trans needs to be dropped with the engine crossmember. the EA82 axles dont like much for than 2 inches lift over stock oh and welcome to the board!

Ok, I hate the older subaru turbo cars with a passion, so I've avoided working on them all together for the past 10 years. I know the manual uses a different clutch/throwout bearing setup than the N/A manuals. My question is, what is the differences between a N/A 4EAT and a forced induction 4EAT? Or are they the same? Reason why I'm asking is a buddy locked up his 4eat in his 91 EJ22T and I happen to have a spare 4.44 98 forester trans/rear diff @ my work. I dont see anything being an issue, since I installed one in my 91 SVX and its held up good but I decided I better ask the pros before I start doing the swap. We planned on using the TQ out of the forester trans, it appears to be the small TQ thats in it (rebuild trans done at Subaru in 04, everything was replaced) Is this swap gonna work? or am I missing something thanks