torxxx

We've been getting P0420 codes like crazy lately too. Weird to see it in the summer, I would assume the Cats/O2 sensors would be the hottest in the summer, and not set codes. One thing I thought about after looking underneath my 98 Outback last night. Wrapping the front cat and about 2 inches upstream and downstream of it? Should help hold heat in the Cat causing efficiency to go up correct? Header wrap if done right, shouldnt hold too much moisture. The idea of it is that it gets hot and the moisture evaporates out. If you are that worried about your exhaust "rusting out" it should already be replaced. My lifted 86 had header wrap from the exhaust studs to back behind my drivers seat for a few years. I took it off when changed the configuration around and there was a slight bit of surface rust, but no pitting. And my car does not stay out of the water, its in water to the bumpers almost every weekend, does not get washed off when I get home. Rally it, Park it, Rally it, Park it for the last 10 years and my tubes are just fine. On the other side of things, couldnt one remove the cats, replace the 02 sensors with EGT sensors right at the manifold plate? It would require some reprogramming, or a custom ECU but I still think using the idea of controlling EGT per cylinder could overide the need for a cat and o2 sensors. I'm not anywhere near a fuel injection guru, but I've heard of guys running GM engines in mud trucks, and they get rid of the cats, put the o2 sensors way down stream and they dont set o2 or cat codes. There has to be a software side of this issue that we can cure?

Ok, now that the wicked stereo system is done in the Outback, its time to get rid of the annoying noises I can hear when the bass isn't pumping. Air intake whistle on the 2.5 DOHC engine, Someone has to have found the cure for this annoying noise. Would running a bigger air intake helps solve some of the problems? I'm not real worried about pulling warmer air from the engine bay (if it quiets down the engine) because living in Alaska, we only have another month of weather above 45F+ and then we go into the deep freeze. I know once the inner fender airbox is removed the noise gets worse. If my understanding is correct about airflow/pipe size, smaller the pipe = higher pressure = higher chance of whistling from the air sucking in the entrance of the pipe. So if I got rid of all the plastic air intake stuff, kept the factory filter box/MAF location and made my own aluminum airbox that fits up inside the fender (not sure on size, once I get the front bumper off and start fitting the tube bumper I figure that would be a good time to build the new air box. I was thinking about putting a 6 inch hole on the top of the airbox (will fit where the stock inner fender box sits) and covering that intake hole with some form of pre filter just to keep the crap out of the box. The box should be big enough to stop the "short ram air intake" issues that occur from running too short of air intake. So has something like this been done? Or am I pissing into the wind with my eyes shut? As for the exhaust, we jacked her up last night and took a peep at the system. 2 cats, 2 resonators? WTF subaru?? I'm thinking of chopping the system behind the second cat and running 1 7/8" pipe from there back. This way the ODB2 still sees its cats/o2 sensors and the 1 7/8" single tube from there back will create backpressure lost by removing the muffler. So what does everyone think about this idea? I can't stand this "simulated turbo" noise the 2.5D makes..

No, 2001 2.5 SOHC uses a MAP sensor instead of the MAF sensor. The only way you will get almost as cool of air to your intake running that setup, is to have your cone filter installed INSIDE the wheel well. Any air drawn from the engine bay is gonna be ~30F+ warmer than outside the engine bay.

thanks for posting this. I'm starting to see a lot of the GL's being junked because of gunked up carbs. Makes it nice for us guys who work at subaru shops/junk yards. I normally keep a rebuild kit in my locker at work, if I see a EA82 carb that isnt fully covered in grease I normally pull it off, rebuild it and put it in a gallon ziplock bag until I need it for my lifted rig Maybe add something about avoiding the Red HEET. It eats the seals/gaskets on carbs. I had to learn the hard way this past winter with mine

most of the 98-2002 cars with 5 speeds are 4.11 gearing. I actually have yet to see a N/A engine built in those years, with something other than a 4.11 if one was really worried about the ratio being different, pull the rear diff cover off your Forester and the donor car and check the number on the ring gear. You will see numbers such as: 40:9 = 4.44 (4EAT trans) I dont remember the ratio numbers that they imprint on the 4.11, but as long as you find the numbers just divide the big # by the small #

opposing forces is where I ended up finding the only info. I cant believe Subaru hasnt released a bulletin that decodes all the #'s on the tranny sticker. It'd be nice to know what they are when I'm at work, rather than coming home posting and having to search high and low. Forester is getting the 4.11 diff out of a 01 5 speed Outback and I'll be done with it. Not gonna bother trying to swap out the front pinion. little bit too much work for me on a car that I dont own

After hours on the forester forums, all I could find was all foresters are 4.44 up to 2001. And the Impreza is a 4.11..... awesome gonna have to dig up a 4.11 rear diff.

that was the one that wasnt cracked out my buddies car. The other two both had stress cracks along the tabs

Fuel pressure test it and if it shows under ~35 PSI, pull the pump out and check the O-ring on the metal cap of the fuel pump assembly. the ear on the metal cap breaks, causing the pump to lose its pressure Theres been 2 2000+ Legos that have had that issue already this week, wouldnt surprise me if yours was the 3rd. your symptoms are almost identical to my buddies that we fixed yesterday. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135288 thats the link, has pictures

Got a forester at work with a blown trans. Front diff is still good. I was thinkin about swapping the front diffs since I dont have the 99 impreza rear diff. What ratio is the 2000 Forester Trans Part #TZ1A3AZC2AA? I know the 98 forester was a 4.44, but IIRC they went to 4.11 when they switched to the 99+ trans with the screw on filter. The donor trans part # is TZ1A2ZAEAA out of a 99 Impreza 2 door RS. I'm paying that ones a 3.9 and ones a 4.11 so I dont have to have the tranny shop swap front pinions. Ideas? Links to the 99+ trans ratio chart? I've got the older 4EAT chart, and all the 5 speed/6 speed/JDM/USA etc charts, but the one I've never managed to track down was the new style 4EAT chart. Thanks guys

bit ironic that 7wayne7 and I both ran into this issue on the same day. Kinda surprising Subaru hasnt done a TSB on it and came with an updated part. After looking at how thin and cheesey those locking tabs are, I will def. be looking for an upgrade. I like the idea of the 2004 filter/cap thing, but in reality your fuel tank really doesnt need a sock on the filter, an in-tank filter and the engine bay fuel filter. I've opened up the tank on my 86, and was shocked at how clean the fuel tank still was even after 26 years of running Alaska village gas out of a jerry jug

thanks for the link, thats what it was. my buddy overlooked it when he installed the new pump. our dealership doesnt stock any of the parts, so we robbed a cap off another 2001. Fixed for now. And I dont think I know 7wayne7

2.5L SOHC Outback with a 4EAT Helping a buddy out, car has major driveability issues. We tested the fuel pressure, 15 psi when it would start. normally it would take 2 or 3 cranks for the pump to build up enough pressure for the engine to start. Once it starts the engine runs like crap, no power, fuel pressure dips to 10 psi under load. We never saw more than 18 PSI (IIRC all EJ engines require 35psi+ to run normally) Pinch off the return line, no change in pressure. Its the MAP year of 2.5, but that wouldnt be causing the issue would it? Any suggestions are appreciated

ty john for clearing that up for me. I'm too used to N/A engines. I keep looking for the white read connector LOL. I spent my 6 hours on it today, got most of the stuff the guy messed up fixed, ran a hot wire to the pump so its got pressure to the rail now. Just no injector pulse.. I called the customer up, told him to come get it. told him it was an open circuit between the ECU and the injectors. He can mess with it, I dont have the time to tear up the interior and dig into the injector wiring that rots on the harness under the passenger seat. Didnt charge him for the time/parts I had to put on it just to get it in the correct order. I just want the thing off our property. Oh and the owner split the block because it blew white smoke out the tail pipe. I didnt have the heart to tell him that he wasted his time putting rings in it. just couldnt bring myself to tell him that he cracked the heads. Also when he put the block back together he stripped out 2 of the sealing bolts on the block. Makes me wonder if he lined up all 3 notches on the rings in a straight line :-p

Ok, my boss decided take in an 85 XT EA82T that some guy tried to rebuild an engine on. After fixing all the junk he had hooked up backwards, or installed wrong I've got it back to where it should run (timing belts on wrong, disty stabbed wrong, coil wires left loose) just to name a few things. I'm not getting fuel pressure at the filter. I 100% hate EA82T's, I've owned a few of them long enough to realize they were not worth building. My biggest issue is I've never owned an XT turbo. Mine was an RX and a 90 loyale turbo wagon. The wiring is completely different on this XT, so I have no clue where the fuel pump relay is, and if it uses a fuel pump modulator like the EJ cars do. Where do I need to start looking/testing to get voltage to the fuel pump? Fuseable links are good, fuses are good no fuel pump hum when you turn the key to on. No fuel on cranking either. I tested the hot wire @ the pump and nothing. With the ECU in the trunk, I could only find the green test connector. No where back there did I see the white read connector. Codes with the Green test unplugged were #12 and #14. IIRC 12= starter circuit and 14 = abormal fuel injector output (assuming it popped that code because the injectors arent getting fuel and opening. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the crank angle sensor in the disty tell the injectors to fire? or does it send a reference pulse to the ECU and then the ECU powers the injectors on and off? Only thing out of the ordinary that I noticed was pulling off the fuel line off the fuel rail was that there was gas in there, under pressure. sprayed me in the face when I pulled the hose off. If anyone has any links to a early EA82T FSM, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks guys

71222 71223 will both work/fit on the RX. the only difference is like .4 inches of travel. I've ran both on my lifted 86, never noticed a difference. matter of fact, I think the drivers side is a 222 and the passenger side is a 223 (parts store only had one when I blew a strut on the 4th of July)

thanks guys. The hoses and what they normally fit will help a bunch. Gonna go track them down this weekend so I have them and dont have to worry bout it when the time comes. Scott, do you have any EJ 6 inch lifts sitting on the shelf, or do you make them as people request them? My goal for August is to have you paid for the lift and the shipping so I can have this thing lifted and done being modded before the snow flies up here in Alaska. (the crap weather we have havin today, it could snow tommorow lol. lets hope it holds off for a bit) And whats the total weight on the 6 inch EJ kit? I'm trying to figure out the shipping to Alaska. I had my AA lift priority bulk shipped and it was like 45 bucks or something. I can always have it thrown on a Lynden or Carlile Truck thats headed back my direction as well. Getting excited, took the OB wheeling in the mud last night and it was hard to not want to take it where my lifted 86 goes. Keep telling myself I need to pull off the plastic bumpers and roll with out them til the left gets here. No sense in destroying 500 dollars worth of plastic bumpers when I can sell them and buy the tubing to make the "real" bumper.

I ended up getting 2 gauge through the hole by the clutch master cylinder. Ran it down the tunnel between the carpet and the insulation pad. Good god, I must be getting old or something. That job seemed 10x harder than running the wires in my 86 wagon. But then again the 86 has 0 computers in it and you can squeeze 2 gauge up between the plastic and the seat lol. Got my 1600 watt mono amp and a 12 in a Obcon box. Doesnt sound as good as the 86 did with the same amp/sub/ I think its time to upgrade the deck. Only one I could find in my storage was an old Kenwood from 2001. Didnt even had sub outputs off the back of the deck. Too much distortion @ high decibels, I'm thinking the deck starts to distort since it doesnt have a tuneable Sub output

my 4.44, 3.9 and 3.54 all had numbers imprinted on the ring gear. I dont remember the exact #'s 39x11 (3.54) was the #'s on the SVX before I swapped to the 4.44. I really wish Subaru still put the ratio on the diff cover.. made things a lot easier

I've 4 wheeled both autos and manuals in Subaru, Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota and for the way I like to drive/play on the trails I prefer a manual. Manuals dont over heat. If your gearing is right in low, there is no slipping the clutch. I have yet to burn a clutch in the 86 lifted wagon, only clutch related failures I've had with a D/R is blowing the springs out of the clutch. I've had 2 D/R trannys fail, but they both drove to the shop and one of them is still alive. I haven't had second gear for 3 years now in it. I use 4 low 1st to 4 high 1st then 4low 3rd, requires fast hands but I'd still roll that way over a 4EAT anyday. First D/R that died, front pinion had several teeth completely missing. 4 high was 7/8 bald (had to use low to drive it to the shop to swap trannys) 4 low had more than half the teeth gone. Low started popping 50k miles before I completely lost 4 high. When I tore it down, I was shocked that the trans even moved with the amount of metal in the bottom of the case and the lack of teeth on the driven gears. Long live the D/R!

I've yanked out so many rigs with my lifted 86, that I've lost track. Biggest was a 2004 Dodge 1 ton with a cummins in it. And one F-250 on 38"s buried the passenger side in snow, over the tires. We used 300 feet of Stryker strap and I hit 25 mph before the line came tight. Once I felt the line start to stretch I left off the gas completely. Momentum did all the work, barely felt the yank LOL

So I'm real close to having the $ together to get my 6 inch lift from SJR. Wondering how much of an extension on the steering shaft you guys running an EJ series with the 6 inch lift on it? I'm figuring with the angle of the shafts and the ujoints on the shaft itself, maybe 3.5 inch piece added in? I want to have a prototype welded up so when I get the lift on, I have something ready to go (just tack weld the extension in place for now, and then I can adjust after the lift) And are you retaining the stock steering shaft knuckle or using an older style? (reason why I ask, the EA82 Manual steering rack came with a shaft w/o that rag joint in the middle of it, its basically 2 ujoints on the end of a straight shaft and it 2 inches longer than the EJ steering shaft knuckle) I know the radiator hoses need to be adapted, and the heater hoses. Shifter on the 5 speed gonna be long enough with the 6 inch lift? And what about the wiring for the engine? ( I looked under the hood and rough guessing, I think they will be long enuff, but it will be tight) Thanks!

that b-pillar, if it was damaged would take bout 20 minutes on a frame rack. Keep it, take the $ and lift it

ODB and emissions... Lol its a clean burning gas engine to begin with. I love how the EPA has made it strict on clean burning gas engines, but yet diesels blow coal all day long and there is no restrictions on them. Fact that one could run a subaru inside a shop with the door down for 30 minutes and you dont get sick. Try running a diesel for 3 minutes with the door down.. Guess I shouldnt complain too much, our state just got rid of the entire emissions program because it really wasnt making that much of a difference up here. Anywho, since I've replaced the VSS, I've put 200 hard miles on it, and it seems to run like a champ. Kinda starting to like the DOHC engine, guess its a good thing the SVX spark plug location got me into shape to do the 2.5 spark plugs lolololol.