torxxx

yah, The more I look, I think I'm going to be drilling a hole. Using 2 gauge wire, and I'm thinking of putting a big D battery in the back so my amp has something to draw off of, other than my main Battery. So using an hole thats already got something through it rules it out. I'll figure some way to get the cable to the back. Too bad they dont leave those nice spare wire holes like the old EA82 body styles.

Well, I noticed a CEL coming on and off a few times which I thought was odd. I'm just too used to my SVX (ODB-I) and the system glitches now and then so you'll get a random CEL while driving and 10 sec later it goes off. I guess I need to start carrying my scanner in the glove box since ODB-II actually pops legit codes unlike the early SVX.

I've ran amps/stereo wiring in several EA82 wagons, but never in a EJ series body. I'm trying to avoid extra work (like pulling the inner fender on the drivers side to run the wiring next to the main wiring harness) and drilling holes in the firewall How are you guys running your main power wire back from the engine bay? I saw a rubber plug in the firewall from the engine bay, but it appears to be behind the clutch pedal assembly under the dash. Im sure someone's done one and found an easier way of running 2 gauge wire to the back of the car?

You guys are gonna laugh at me for this one. After posting this, goin back to the shop and fixing the F150 blocking the door, I got mine in the shop and checked out the entire car. Ends up being, I drove the car for damn near a full day never noticed that the speedo didnt work. ( My SVX and my 86 wagon speedos are so far off with the bigger tires/different gearing I dont ever look at that side of the dash lol) Replaced the Instrument cluster and the fuel cut issue stopped. So I guess the vehicle speed sensor in the speedo cluster controls fuel cut. No speed sensor = no high revs. I pushed the car well into redline in several gears after the VSS was replaced and no more fuel cut. Oh the joys of ODB2 systems. Reminds me why I love the SVX... Check engine light comes on, no fail safe mode. Thanks for the info on the exhaust, good thing I did some favors for the exhaust shop last week. I'll buy some 2 inch exhaust tubing and hit them up this weekend and get rid of that muffler. IMO Subaru's weren't made to run mufflers. If you use the right size tubing you can create enough back pressure to avoid the nasty pops on aggressive decel, and still have the bottom end power like running a full exhaust. Once the lift is on, I'll do full catback and ditch the O2 sensors/cats Don't really see the point of the 02 sensor system Subaru uses on a MPFI system. Whats the point of reading the entire exhaust system and letting the computer adjust all 4 cylinders. Be a different story if each cylinder had an o2 sensor, but with the stock header setup I dont think it'd be possible unless someone scored a set of equal length N/A headers. And then at then by then, why bother with the Subaru fuel management system? MegaSquirt time!

Just scored a 98 Outback 5 speed over the weekend for 500 bucks. Sat in storage for a few years, all it took was a jump start to get it going. Car runs great, but I've noticed one thing... It feels like a fuel cut @ 4500 in first gear. Rev rev rev no fuel, rpms get below 4k and it powers right back up. Shouldnt be a limited since redline starts @ 6k.. One would assume the engine would pull at least to the start of redline before fuel cut occured. The 5 speed didnt have a fuel cut system to stop overreving did it? I've never noticed it on any other 5 speed before, just wondering if this is a common issue with the DOHC engine/fuel system? I'm sure it needs a tuneup, but its starting to make me wonder if its just old gas or the fuel pump dying maybe? Anyone else have fuel cut like issues, and if so what was the fix? And whats with the whistle that comes from the exhaust? I've seen it do this almost EVERY 5 speed Outback I've worked on, and on a few of my friends Outbacks. We started calling it the simulated turbo (as a joke) since it whines like one under high RPM. I am planning on getting rid of the muffler and resonator and running straight pipe because I like to hear my exhaust, not my engine. Easier to listen for misfires IMO. Thanks in advance to anyone who responds

you mean R134a. Yes its been done a lot. Some guys say you have to replace all the o-rings on the system because of the chemical difference between the 2 types of Freon. I have 2 cars of my own that I converted myself, didnt change the o-rings and have had no issues with it since then. If one was to do it right, you would recover the R12 (if the system is still charged) put a vacumn on it to remove all the old oil/moisture. Inject 134a compressor oil in the empty system and then fill with 134a. Make sure to hit the AC switch on/off/on/off/on/off/on when you first start it so you dont create extra wear on the compressor. Once the systems full, you dont have to cycle the AC button, its just done when you first fill it back up. I don't measure lbs or ounces of Freon when I charge my cars. The SVX if its empty gets 2.5 of the small cans, Loyale gets around a can and a half. Legacy should be 2 to 2.5 cans. And be careful, you dont wanna get frostbite from the Freon... Safety glasses and leather gloves for sure. And do it outside. I've been sicker than hell from R12 before. R134a is a lot more inert and safer.

the old school engines only had a 1 wire O2 sensor.. No real point in even bothering hooking it up. And the only 85 EA81's that had O2 sensors were the turbos and the feedback carbs. And I dont think they made a turbo hatch in that year (ShawnW will correct me on this one if I'm wrong I'm sure) Look under your steering column, see if there is a computer bolted to the underside of the column. If there isnt a computer you dont need the 02 sensor. Even with the computer I'd still say leave it unplugged. 1 wire sensors can't really send exhaust mixture data, I think they are more used as an EGT on the single wires.

Had both my fronts break on mine, luckily they jammed into my fenders and held together long enough to drive 2 mph to the shop. soon as we lifted the car up off the ground with the overhead lift, both struts popped out. 22 year old car, I guess I got my $$$ worth out of those.

I carry 3 sets of new belts with me everywhere I go. Anything a belt slips, I make sure to give it a good inspection. I'll have to look at the gears when I get back home. I normally buy napa belts just because its the cheapest in town thru my work acct. I dont mind replacing busted belts, thats why I have open covers. it takes what 10 min to change em? I can deal with that every 20k miles, I just hate having to retime the right bank every time I drive the car. The fact that its done it 2x now, exact same jump, same side is really making me wonder. One wouldnt think the metal gears would wear? this engine has around 250k miles on it total run time. the gears on the cams havent been replaced, but the center gears+ tensioners are newer

im interesting in this speedometer calibration box for my SVX since I went from 3.54s to 4.44 gearing. Where you guys getting them at?

never trust the stock oil pressure gauge I cut the wire to mine a long time ago, things are way too unreliable. If you really wanted to test it, and not have to run an oil line up to your dash, or buy the electric sensor/gauge you can unscrew the oil pressure sender, and use a line pressure gauge to test the oil pressure. At least then it'll give you peace of mind that your engine is running at the correct PSI The tick you are hearing.. is it lifter noise, rod bearings starting to knock? try and get a reference point on where the ticking is coming from. If you dont have a stethoscope, you can use a long screwdriver and put your ear up to the handle. the noise will xfer up the shaft of the screwdriver and reverberate through the plastic handle. Are you sure you didnt tear an o-ring when you installed the pump? Its been a long time since I dicked witha EA81, I know they dont use the Mickeymouse seal that our EA82's do, but I know that I've personally had an o-ring slip out of place when I put my new pump on, and it made all sorts of ticking. Was allowing the pump to pick up air, and not the the HLA's pump up. Unfortunately yours is a pushrod motor, so the noise not be as easy to differentiate What weight oil do you run?

for future reference, when those AT trans mounts break/rip you can lie under the car grab the tail shaft of the tranny and push up on it. When the mounts good, it should only move maybe an 1/8".

Disclaimer: Don't try this unless you have done it before and you understand what can happen if you try this method on any other strut. spring compressor for the rear shocks? I personally compress those by hand I'm running the accord front springs on the rear of mine, and iirc those are longer a hella lot stiffer. and I just did one yesterday without a compressor. all it takes is like 40 lbs of pressure down on the topcap. have a buddy start the nut as you are pushing down on the topcap. The amount of force you are pushing down isnt enough to get the spring to shoot out of place. So if you've rented a spring compressor set, use it the first time, see how little pressure it takes to start the nut. And then the next time they blow, try it my way and save ur self a lil $

Lets see, where do I start...... 3 rear axles, blew the spring perch off the rear struts, replaced both of them. Had the 3 point bushing that holds the rear x-member up both snap out playing in a mud hole, and to drive home with my rear diff damn near on the ground. So its been zero upgrades for me, just keeping up with 26 year old car is proving to be enough for me. I think its time to start project outback. EG33 under the hood, to a 5 speed D/R to a Divorced Nissan Xfercase. SJR's 6 inch Leggy lift ofc and then I'll built my subframe from there, cut the hole in the floor for the shifter and start makin my drivelines up. At least this might be a lil easier, wont have 13 years more rust on lol

the diesel engine intrigues me. 265 ft/lbs of TQ stock, and this car is supposed to be heavily modified. I say that car, with the mod diesel and add a 4 inch life and some good rubber and lets hit the pits!

Hey guy, been a while since I posted mainly because my times been put into my SVX instead of playing with the old lifted wagon. Been out playin pretty hard lately, (I'm the smallest rig up here, everyones on 35"+ tires, so I've gotta hammer through a lot of stuff that they idle through) 2nd time in a week the right bank has jumped time 2 teeth on the Cam gear. I am running open covers, and I have since day one of owning this car (14 years now) and have not had an issue with belts jumping when playing, even when I packed the engine bay full of snow. The only thing thats a little different this time is a lot higher RPMS. Engines seen 6000-7000 rpms quite a few times in deep mud holes where if I shifted I'd lose momentum so I've feather the gas into the redline and then let off a lil. Basically it runs at 5k with maybe 2 second bursts at 7k. Tensioners are newish, replaced them 2 years ago. When I do my belts, I put a little extra tension on the belt, figuring that tighter the better? All marks like up, car runs like a champ, I come home from playing, notice that little pop pop pop out the tail pipe, checked the timing marks, 2 teeth off. Anyone else have issues with this? If so whats causing it and what can I do to prevent it?

RTV Silicone is a thing of the past. I throw away any tubes I get in a headset kit because the stuff is very prone to leaking and it doesnt stick worth a ************ to anything. The best stuff to use, if you need a sealant that wont leak, and is impervious to ATF, Oil, Coolant, Gas etc. The Right Stuff is what I've been using for the past 5 or 6 years and I have had ZERO issues since starting to use that stuff. Before I've had transmission pans leak, or EA82 thermostat housings leak after using RTV. Just to test my theory I decided to not brake clean off any of the oil ATF off the surface of the pan/transmission. No leaks what so ever.

nice looking project. Reminds me, I have a 92 Loyale body sitting at the shop and a spare EJ22 sitting in another car. I have my adapter plate, I just need to come up with a way of either drilling a flywheel or buying one predrilled. I like how you modified the rear diff hanger, I used square tubing between the mounting plate and the 4 bolt holes, pain in the rump roast to line everything up so I might try the method u used. Good work!

Hey guys, long time off the board, had to get my stuff (LOL@censor) together irl. Anyhow hope everyone is doin ok and please tell me theres a bunch of new retrofit info on SVX's... LOL Btw, added a early early 92 (mfg date actually shows it as a 5/91, #768 made!) SVX to my collection. I got tired of the 3.54 trans in it and ripped that out and added a 4.44 Transmission and a few other changes to it. Car is AMAZING!

as far as valve adjustment goes on the EJ25D, I only do it if the engine is giving symptoms of valves out of adjustment. But to the adjustment, basically you are testing with the valve closed (meaning the lobe of the camshaft for that cylinder is pointing AWAY from the shim. insert a feeler gauge and replaced shims til you are in spec. That process is one of the PITA jobs on any subaru imo. I do mine a little different than some people do, but I do it my way because for me, its the fastest and simplest way to do it. You dont have to rotate the crankshaft at all using my method. Place the crankshaft timing mark on center (as if you were installing the timing belt.) This puts the pistons in a neutral spot where valves CANNOT hit the piston even when fully open. Once you have the crank set with the notch @ 12 oclock, dont move the crankshaft until you are done and have the timing belt reinstalled. Leave the pulleys on the engine, remove valve covers and test away. You will be turning the individual cams as you test the gap between the CAM LOBE AND THE SHIM. Some people will freak out and say no no no dont turn the cams it will hurt something. Don't worry it wont hurt anything as long as the crank timing mark is @ 12 oclock. The pistons are recessed over 2 inches into the cylinders, there is NO physical way for a stock EJ25D to have valve to piston contact if you set it correctly. if you follow the service manual there is like 16 steps/positions you gotta put the engine in to test all of them with the timing belt left on. thats why I say if they arent acting up, dont mess with them. Good luck

my bad, I had the numbers mixed up. 24 is the duty C code

get rid of the resonator and the factory muffler. get a 2 1/4 inch Thrush muffler (actual muffler not a glasspack. they are a knock off of flowmasters) they will fit up in the factory location for the muffler, you just have to rotate the muffler a little bit to make it fit. That will make the car sound a hell of a lot better. You wont notice much power wise, but with most exhausts you dont notice it very much compared to what you hear. Leave the air intake alone, no turbos. 2.5 DOHC naturally aspirated engines will not handle forced induction. The compression ratio is simply too high for that, the head gaskets are already prone to blowing so turbo/SC would increase the failure rate. Get a good set of coilovers and drop the car a inch or two. heavy sway bars, bigger rims, wider tires, brake upgrades is what I would start with. Make it handle better... most of the time Handling > Power Oh and btw, check the timing belt. if it needs replaced make sure you check all the idler pulleys and their bearings and check the breakaway pressure of the tensioner. it should take a certain amount of pressure to make the tensioner collapse and then it should only go so far in in a set amount of time. I dont know the exact numbers on them because I've done so many of them that I just do them by feel in a vice. it should take around a minute or two to collapse the tensioner in a vice, and you dont use much pressure (one hand turning the vice handle and you shouldnt be straining yourself. your weight leaning on the handle should be enough force) Also while you are in there, replace all 4 cam seals, front main seal (also know as timing cover seal) water pump, oil pump seal and o-ring, clean the grease off the cam and crank sensor surfaces, degrease the front of the engine. use non chloroninated brake clean (green CRC can @ napa) Use NGK G-Power spark plugs gapped at .044, use NGK 8mm wires (if you can find them for a 2.5 DOHC) Clean MAF with MAF cleaner (dont use anything other than MAF cleaner. Other chemicals can ruin the sensor) Clean IAC (idle air controller, you can use MAF cleaner or non chloro brake clean. make sure to turn the vane inside the controller so you get all the carbon out of it. Clean throttle body and butterfly Replace valve cover gaskets

yeah some info is needed. two things to start with Fuel and Spark. Fuel pump and Coil pack (I'm not saying go buy new ones and replace) those two contribute to fuel/spark and both of them will get hot and stop functioning when they start to fail. Next time it dies, pull a spark plug wire off the coil pack and position it back a 1/4" from the edge of the terminal and having someone crank the engine over. Fuel side, pull off your fuel inlet line (with the key off and watch out for fuel spraying back at you when you pull the line off) with the line off, hold the hose over a container (I usually use a 20oz pop bottle) and have someone turn the key on. Fuel should run out fairly fast as soon as the key is turned to the on position. Thats something to start with

snapping the top two bolts would happen if all of the bellhousing bolts were left loose. I noticed this happening on my SVX last night when I bolted the transmission up. The last 1/8" of the dowl pins were rusty and it wouldnt let the gap close up tight, I tightened down one of the upper bolts and I heard a pop. I assumed that everythign was still tight. When I went though and double checked all of the bolts at the end of the job, I found that 3 of the 4 bell housing bolts were an 1/8" loose. If I was to drive it, the upper bolts could have loosened up enough to allow the engine to move just enough from the transmission to break the bolts. The rear main seal issue, thats a different story. Did you initally replace the rear main seal before all of this happened? If it wasnt changed, it may have been partially blown out of the housing before hand and it was coincidental that it popped completely out around the same time that the top bolts snapped

16 flashes = Duty C Sol error. Either your tail shaft solenoid is failing, or its stuck open. Is your AWD functioning properly or is the differential locking up on tight turns? either way, the back of your transmission needs to be torn into. And to bheinen74 about you saying this " SVX has problematic transmission from the get go, they all do, not a single one escaped a trans problem." Saying all SVX's had trans problems is just being ignornant. 95% of the 1992's had trans issues, about 50% of the 93's and 20% of the 94's had trans issues. They fixed/upgraded the transmission as soon as the problems came up. And a lot of the the trans ran for a LONG time with out any issues. my 92 has 179k miles on it and I JUST pulled out the factory 4EAT 2 nights ago because just the high side clutches/pump died. http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ is a great resource for SVX's, thats where I've been spending most of my time since their knowledge base is formed directly around the SVX.