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I second that... you have a second problem going on. Pitch stopper will not effect the starter and rear main seal problem that you are having. I've ran both my older wagon and my SVX without the pitch stoppers (because I snapped them) as gloyale stated, the engine mounts will stress and wear ALOT more, and you may see some exhaust breaking because the engine can rock farther forward and back than it can with the stopper installed

I highly doubt that unacceptable wear is going to happen from not having the pins. My EA82 has had no pins for 6 years now, same engine, same transmissionn no ill effects of it yet. I've always pulled engines out that had no pins, for who knows how long and none of the engines suffered from any bearing failure due to anything

http://www.performance radiator.com is where I got mine from. 118 dollars for the two row copper core rad

its occcuring pretty much anytime below 2250. Hot/cold dont make a different, fuel quality dont make a difference. I may have to take a vacumn line off and run some water through one for a lil bit. I've heard taht will knock off some carbon off the valves/pistons/top of the cylinder.

yah thats that he's talking about. They are a "legacy brat" but they are a 4 door with a 4 foot bed.

SPFI is 9.5:1 so thats the original ratio. not sure what it is now with shaved heads. cant be over 10.3:1 or so. Engine rips balls on Top end. it'll smoke a fuel injected wagon any day of the week. If I'm going to hook up EGR again, I'm going to have to find a different style valve. I dont like the subaru one with the 1/2 inch line going to their chit decel valve. I guess I could just vent that to atmosphere too. water injection would be pointless on a 90 hp engine, not to mention having to do oil changes more often due to more condensation in the engine.

Ok, engine in my lifted rig with a half a million body miles has been having detonation issues for a while now and I'm finally fed up with it. Detonation occurs any time I lug the engine below 2500 rpms in any gear but 1st gear (assuming the gearing is low enough that the engine can out pull the detonation since the wheels break loose and engine revs faster) I've tried everything I know to stop detonation and I cant find a cure. I've ran snowmachine spark plugs with a 9 rating (coldest plug you can get) RMK700 plugs are identical to subaru plugs just have a colder temp rating. This helped a tiny bit in the summer when it was really hot out. I've done away with EGR completely, reinstalled a fully functional emissions system off another federal engine setup. Tried a decel valve off an old chevy 350 style carb setup to stop the raw fuel from getting sucked into the engine on decel. Turned timing down to 4 degrees (still detonates, engine doesnt like 4 degrees BTDC) Ran high octane fuel (91 is highest we can get at pump) havent tried av-gas yet cuz I'm not paying 8 dollars a gallon for 120 octane. I've used every style of octane boost known to man except Valve-Tek since I can't find a supplier up here that sells it. (Valve-tek works wonders under marine applications with these newer Fuel injected Big blocks we use in out jetboats that require a min of 92 octane.) The block in the car is a 1994 EA82 SPFI engine with the heads shaved down as much as the machine shop would do (not sure how much it is, its still not a valve bender) so its got more compression than a stock carb block, but Ive seen 350's running 11:1 compression without a hint of detonation. I guess the only thing that could be causing these issues is the vac advance on the carb? its not retarding the timing on acceleration? (not sure if i understand the principals of vac advance but from what I remember, timing advances under cruising rpms, and then drops under massive accel (since vac drops) correct? Give me some other ideas I might be overlooking please. I know I need to ditch this carb setup and goto FI but I wont be able to do it until I get another one of my cars on the road (92 Loyale, 92 SVX which ever one comes first lol) Thanks for the responses this might get appreciate ppls help.

I carry enough tools to take apart ANYTHING on my car. Also have a fire ext., enough fluids to do a complete fluid change for entire car. Handyman Jack, Avalanche shovel with telescoping 4 foot handle. 2 rolls of blue paper towels, 4 rolls of buttwipe, hatchet, guns, flares, spare tire, chevy astro van scissor jack, 2 12x12x18 inch blocks of wood, pry bars. Basically the rear cargo area of my car is filled full all the time. Along with half the back seat.. oh yeah cant forget the multimeter, compression tester, 3 spare alternators, 2 spare starters, 2 front axles, 2 rear axles spare set of out tierods and balljoints, 1 spare radius rod, spare set of brake pads for all 4 wheels, 1 spare rear caliper 2 rear rubber brake lines, 2 metal brake lines for rear, 1 of each front brake rubber line. few sets of timing belts, few sets of v-belts, various radiator hoses, 15 feet of heater core hose. the list goes on and on. We will just say theres enough stuff in the back of my car that last time I weighed it, it hit 4061 pounds on the scale. Thats with a half tank of fuel and me out of the car. Can never be too safe

If I were you, I'd be seeking fuel and time compensation from the dealer. There is no way that a new turbo should break on the drive home unless the dealer tech's didnt hook everything up right, or they put a used turbo instead of a new one. There are low pressure turbos so they should last a bit long than a turbo on say a WRC rally car

stay away from phantom grip. There has been major issues with them blowing up entire transmissions. The way they are designed the put massive strain on the Pinion shaft causing it to crack and grenade... If you were going to put LsD up front you'd want to go with teh carrier type that is used in the STi's

run 89 octane. Most new cars recommend running 90+ octane if you read teh owners manuals. Knock sensors do retard timing when the engine knocks but it will only work to a certain degree. One other thing to remember is these engines are very prone to piston slap due to the fact that they are flat engines..

take emery cloth and sand down all the rust/corrosion/road poop off the slide pins. Take a synthetic wheel bearing grease of some sort and grease the hell out of the slides. Also bad wheel bearings can cause the same problem. I had the rears on my EA82 wagon do that this summer. Wheel bearing was so bad that the axle shaft and tire actually had a lean just like the pad did. Since the pad bracket bolts to the control arm itself and the rotor is attached to the hub/wheelbearing/tire thingermabobber it can cause the same problem. I almost guarantee that your slide pins are rusty

LOL! Wow.. never thought I'd see that question asked in here.. NO you dont pull the engine. leave the radiator in no sense in losing coolant. Just take the fans off and therse more than enough room

Cam sensor is the one that would cause a no spark.. Crank sensor controls fuel pump pulses. Cam sensor controls Fuel injectors pulse and coil reference pulse. You could have jumped time, if that is the case, you could have bent valves. The way these engines are designed, the Thrust bearing on the crank, even if it did fail wouldnt let the crank walk back that far. I think you actually broke the center of the pulley out of the rest of the pulley. A keyway falling out, or degrading would cause a wobble in the pulley, which could cause abnormal wear to the pulley itself and make it shear off the part where the crank bolt tightens down. Either way, pull the pulley off and look at it. takes 2 minutes to do. Take off your belts and ac belt tensioner, take a 22mm socket and a big breaker bar and brace it against the drivers side bottom of the core support. make sure the bar is tight against the core support (bottom radiator support for those who arent familar with the terms) now go bump the key to start for just a second and then shut the ignition off. This will break the crank bolt loose. Now pull off the pulley and investigate.

+10 for no covers.. ran mine with no covers for the last 7 years and have had NO problems with it. We even dropped a screw driver down in there at 2500 rpms to see what would happen. it spit the screw driver back out. The pros of no covers: You can check your t-belts every time u check your oil just by looking down. Takes 5 minutes to put new belts on when/if they break You dont ever have to worry about the captive nuts in the inner covers spinning and having to "extract" the bolts out of them Easier to tell when you have a cam/crank seal leaking Belts dont get coated with oil/coolant when you do have a leak Run without covers it'll be the best thing you've done to ur car

or the clutch basket sheered off the tail shaft extension. I've seen that happen about as often as the duty C going bad

I think you have a pressure control Sol starting to go out. You can wait til it goes bad and fail safes the tranny (only has 2nd and 3rd gear) I dont recommend flushes because sometimes it'll knock stuff loose that will kill the tranny. Just change both filters and put new fluid in it. Use ATF +4 dex/merc

I second what fox said. disty is 180 out or you have the firing order wrong. goes counter clockwise 1 3 2 4 #1 is the one on the cap closest to the brake booster. 3 points at the passenger side strut tower, #2 points at the alternator #4 points at the drivers side strut tower. #1 cylinder on the engine is the one closest to passenger head light then straight across the engine is #2, #3 is on same side as #1, 4 is on same side as 2

I've rebuilt 100's of DOHC and 100's of SOHC engines that were in wrecks and the crash broke the pulleys both at high speed and low speed (engine speed) and have yet to see a cracked piston. The valves are made of a different grade metal and they tend to take all the damage. I'll pulled out a valve bent at a 30 degree angle (toasted the valve guide and it put a good gouge into the piston but it didnt crack) Car is still on the road with 40k more miles on it than when I fixed it. Valves can be done your self to save some time but you'll need to buy a valve spring compressor adapter for the recessed valve springs. Also get the oil based valve grinding compound and the lil suction cup thing for grinding valves. It takes about 10 minutes a valve to do (speeds up the farther you go) plan on 20 bucks a valve from subaru. There is no reason to send the heads to a machine shop other than to get the heads resurfaced. Replacing valves are very easy to do and it will save you about 500 dollars. If you have valves that are questionable if they are bent, put the head on a table so the block side of the head is flat. take gasoline and fill up the pit where the valves and the spark plugs sit. If you dont have any gas leaking down the intake port or exhaust port they arent bent (as long as u can open the valve by pushing the spring down with a screw driver)

the green connector is for one of the round relays just like the head lights, rear defrost and blower motor use. Take the one of the the rear defrost and stick it in the green connector. It sounds like yours is a feedback carb. is there a ECM bolted to the underside of the steering column? I drive a 86 carb'd wagon (federal not california) cali model is a feedback model. I dont have any relays behind my strut towers

give it a lil tappy poo with a dead blow hammer. what ever you do, do NOT stick a screw driver in there and try to pry it out that way. you take a major chance on ************ing up the mating surface and then the pump will never seal up

Timing belts.. good for 40k miles or so unless u buy subaru brand belts then u get 60-65k miles. Do your self a favor and learn how to do the timing belts urself. it will save you 100's of dollars down the road. I recommend doing the belt right away if they arent new. Do yourself a favor and leave the timing belt outer covers off after you do the belts. You dont need them (I dont care what ppl say on this forum. I've ran mine for 10 years without covers well over 200k miles without covers and never had a problem. Even dropped a screwdriver into the belts with engine at 2500 rpms to see what would happen..) Rear wheel bearings can get noisy on these cars. You can drive them a long long time with bad rear wheel bearings. Do yourself a favor and track down a set of rear disc brakes for your loyale also. they can be found on RX's turbo XT's and any other Turbo soob 1985-1991.

LMFAO.. thats funny that car isnt the fastest car in Alaska. The Grizzly is. Get your facts straight. I've worked on many cars that came from AAA and its some shady ************. bolts left out, hose clamps missing on fuel lines, intake's RTV'd on instead of using a gasket, thermostats put in backwards. Why dont you stop advertising a half assed shops on the forums? The way you carry yourself on here almost tells me you are getting paid by them to advertise. I work on these cars for a living, guarantee I've worked on prolly 10x more of these than you can dream of. And the Diesel doctor? Oh you mean the shop that tried to weld a friend of mine's 6.2L diesel starter to the bellhousing when they snapped off a starter bolt installing it? yeah that great shop. Now get over your self, ur not that great

You need to do get a block tester and use it on the radiator. If the dye turns yellow, u got bad HG's. compression test rarely shows a bad HG on a subaru. Do your self a favor and pull the engine out. An EJ25D is a very hard engine to work on in the car. Change the spark plugs and then tell me u wanna attempt HG's in the car. You can have the engine out on the floor in under an hour. From there you are looking at maybe 2 hours pulling the heads off. make sure you mark the lifter caps and that they go back in the same hole they came out of. If you dont you are gonna have a big problem with ticking and a possibility of a valve not closing all the way.

Nice failed attempt at advertising a rip off Subaru shop. Place sells parts that legally they arent allowed to sell (like used cat converters) Triple A Subaru did not come up with the newly designed head gaskets that are used on the EJ25D. GM has been using that exact style of head gaskets for 10 years, subaru borrowed GM's idea. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- anyhow back to the posters question. Replace the gear that is broken, slap a new belt on it crank and see if it'll start. If it doesnt, or if it does but has a big misfire you'll need to compression test to it narrow down what cylinders have the lower compression because the valves are bent.