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not all 2.2's from 96-98 are the different exhaust (single port) its more stuck to the 96's. I've seen the Gen 2 EJ22 with dual port exhaust in 97's and 98's. That would be the engine to go for. No head gasket issues, no pain in the rump roast valve's to spend 8 hours shimming and spinning the engine over and over and over trying to set them. The only real problem with those 2.2L is non adjustable valves and I can;t remember what year those came on. I think the phase 2 were all non-adjustable. I know Gen 1 EJ22's usually came with adjustable rockers. Any way you go, good luck and stay away from EJ25D. Best one to use is EJ22E or get fancy and use a EJ251

wow wtf? 25 bucks to look up the code and 8 dollars a key? 2 bucks a key up here to have one made. Just pull out your passenger side door lock. they key code is stamped on the back of the lock tumbler assembly. it'll be a 4 digit code starting with 8 most likely.

calipers dragging can and will cause warped rotors. I've seen many warped rotors on EJ series cars.. And I've seen just as many on EA series cars. I drive mine for about 4 years (ignoring the slight wobble back and forth during braking) and then I end up changing them. But I buy the cheapest rotors napa has and I use the cheapest pads. Driving style is another major contributing factor to rotors warping. I drive VERY aggressively so I tend to use my breaks and engine braking more than most people do. Not to mention people who drive somewhere with long downhills seem to warp rotors more commonly. I refuse to have rotors turned. The ones for my car cost 21 bucks and having them turned is 35 bucks.. you do the math, but I think its cheaper to replace than repair

why do you sound so afraid to change the intake? you can change it in about a minute and 30 seconds with the engine out of the car.....

If you dont know the history of it, you would have to replace bent valves and head gaskets and put it all together and take the chance of it being a major piston slap engine or not. If you can get the engine for a "core" like 50 bucks or something say do it. sometimes junkyards will sell them for just parts if its a bent valve engine. I've bought several EJ25D's for 50 bucks each because they had broken timing pulleys and the valves were trashed. Ur lookin at about 20 dollars a valve to have them replaced. plus a head set, head resurface, fluids. If you did the work yourself, I'd say 600 bucks should cover everything. If you pay a shop to do it, 1500-2000 dollars

From what I was told from a Tech. at the dealer here in town, if it has the immobilizer system, there is nothing you can do to bypass it. (I know this guy personally, hes not just talking to a regular customer that came in the door at the dealership. he's taught me ways to bypass the older sec. systems in the past) If you dont have the chipped key, the car will not power up. theres no way around it. Maybe in the future an aftermarket company will make a conversion system to do away with this security junk, but for now its all tied into a security module which tells the ECM and ignition systems to power up.

i called the local dealer here and asked them how much the immobilizer key is they said shipped to the counter in town was 589 dollars. Thats 2007 and newer and only certain models come with it its a laser cut, chipped key

I've never seen an actuator fail on the loyale/GL's. NEVER! you have a vacumn line off under the dash, or the one coming from the engine to the vac canister to the heater actuator.

fixed! found the relay. I had to sit upsidedown in the drivers seat stick my head up by the pedal mount just to see the relay. Wish these manuals, all data, mitchell etc actually had the REAL locations of components. they all said it was bolted to the dash crossbar support above the fuse box.. LOL I checked about 20 04+ soobs today and none of them had a relay there. On the other hand, it could have been a lot worse. could have had the immobilizer system on it.. 600 dollar chipped key..

its a SPFI it is really hard to get any thing down the optical disc in those distributors. I've recently had one apart and I was amazed with the SPFI one. theres nothing inside them besides the disc and the plastic eye. I think you have your plug wires mixed up. #1 points directly at the brake booster and then from there counter clockwise 3 2 4

the JDM will most likely not have a EGR pipe and yours will. So you will have to take out the second plug down on the drivers side head. Even though the JDM comes with an intake, they are not plug and play. You have to retain your intake/wiring etc for the engine to be proper. JDM wiring is different, they use different parts for some stuff because they are the non-detuned version of the cars we get. So a lot of times to detune them they will put a cheaper "non" performance part on the engine like a TPS.

make sure you pull the oil pan off too and clean the pickup screen off. Also replace the timing belt and check all pulleys and tensioner. And my rule with JDM engines is just use the long block. Take off intake, alternator, power steering pump, ac pump. while you have it out, put new exhaust studs in (use red locktite.) Wouldnt hurt to slap new plugs and valve cover gaskets on it too while its out since the EJ25D is a sl0t to change the plugs and vc gaskets in the car. wow a 30 day warranty.... a bit sad. foreign engines in Lynwood has a year warranty but they are a bit more spendy. Ohter than that it is a EJ25D, it will bolt up to your outback. Make sure you use the engine mounts off your old engine. JDM engines tend to have different style mounts than North American Cars If you have any other questions about these engines shoot me a pm, I've become very very familiar with these over the last few years.. done over 500 and counting

Ok, I went out again today and fiddled aroudn with the car some more. Corrosion is a major issue with this car. Since its 04+ I dont have any references, manuals or anything on this car. I do have my alldatapro acct, but its so vague that its not even really worth using. I spent 3 hours cleaning connectors/relays/fuses etc. I still cant find this security interupt relay that alldata says is there. I'm 90% sure thats what the problem is. the only power the car is getting is basically body electronics. Power locks work, Interior Lighting, Horn and thats it. basically what the security system uses. I pulled the ignition switch out of the column and tested it with a MM and a test light and no power anywhere on that circuit. I unplugged the bulkhead connector thats above the fusebox and all the terminals there looked good.. Is there anyone in this forum that owns an 06 Soob thats had issues with the sec. system? If so post or pm me please. I need tog et this job taken care of asap

2nd what GD said. Also if you are really serious about rebuilding an EJ22 N/A you might want to start checking on availability of the parts. Some of the stuff may be Subaru factory parts only. The EA82, EJ18, and EJ22 were designed to be easy to work on, get 300k miles on them and then get thrown away. You will find that your bearing surfaces in the block are going to be scored up. There is no way around it with aluminum blocks. I took apart a 5 speed manual this week that had 75k miles on it and I couldnt reuse the case. the bearing surfaces were worn that bad that it was pointless to put back together. What me and GD are getting at, you tear into an engine, order up all these parts etc just to find out that a bearing surface is fubar'd and that its a 50/50 chance that it goes back together and runs for another 100k or it grenades in 5k miles because you disturbed the surface and put a new part in it. I understand what ur saying about making more junk to have laying around, but on the other hand you could always scrap out the engine and sell the aluminum to a scrap yard

you never learned how to use a test light? come on dude, its common sense.. you clip the alligator clip to a ground and stab a positive wire with the end of the probe.... if its getting power the handle of the probe lights up.. I find it hard to believe that someone who is capable of changing a fender, doesnt know how to use a test light

for once, I'm going to agree with GD..

A naturally Aspirated 2.2L is not worth rebuilding. When you are all said and done rebuilding it shortblock up, you could have bought 3 or 4 used 2.2L's from the junkyard. theres a reason why not very many ppl rebuild the EJ22 and EA82's. There is a million of them around the world and they are dirt cheap And not to mention some of the questions you've asked about reusing gaskets and seals.... if you are going to half rump roast a rebuild, its not worth doing. if you are going to split the case, might as well do new pistons/rings/rods/main bearings/wristpins, have the cylinders re-honed. Go all out, or nothing at all

vmax? what are you talking about?!?! I dont think anything was said bout anything like that...

what are the chances of getting you to send me a set of those cool iceland Ea82 marker lights? we dont have the ones that have the orange lens sticking out the side here in the US. I can paypal you the money for the lights and shipping. I'd love to have the only set of those marker lights in all of Alaska

temp cv axle boots = roll of duct tape. clean off both sides of the broken boot. start the duct tape on the small size of the boot (with the car jacked up ofc) and then have a friend put the car in first gear. spin on the duct tape til the boot is fixed. ran a rear axle like this all through mud season this year. changed it a few weeks ago. lol duct tape pwns

on my 86 lifted wagon - over 500k miles. stopped keeping track 9 months ago when it hit 500 second engine (156k miles on this engine) second transmission (trans had 270k miles on it when I put it in. that was over 100k miles ago) Only thing original on this car: top half of rear seat, head liner, rear doors and gate. Everything else is off of about 20 diff EA82 series cars.

699 for a timing belt job is a rip. its 2.8 hours book time to do the job and usually around 90-100 an hr labor rate. Its such a low mileage engine that the pulleys etc are prolly fine. if you arent hearing a grinding or whirring noise from the front of the engine, the pulleys are most likely fine. The entire test the tensioner thing is a load of crap. I've never done it, never had one fail (done 100's of the 96+ Ej22 and EJ25's). As long as its not leaking oil, and it takes around 2 to 3 minutes to compress it in a vice its fine. you dont wanna just crank the vice closed. it should be stiff and turn in easy on about 1/2 turn on the vice handle, then stiffen up. I usually do 1/2 turns at a time and wait 20 seconds or so and you'll feel it get easy to turn again. the recommended mileage for timing belts should ALWAYS stay at 60k miles. 75k-105k is taking a BIG risk on 2 to 3000 dollars worth of repair of the belt breaks just because someone said they last that long. I dont care if the repair manual says 75k miles or 100k miles. Thats under ideal conditions (I.E. 60F to 90F temperature outside, no oil or coolant ever touched the belts, pulley surfaces are 100% smooth) And for the seals, quick inspection is all thats needed. you will know if one is leaking. I'd be more worried about the water pump leaking at 88k miles vs seals leaking. and this is a SOHC 2.5 gen 2 engine. Very, very easy to do a t-belt on. drain remove radiator, remove ac pulley and ps/alt belt. remove crank pulley, remove covers, set engine with all timing belt notches at 12 oclock remove tensioner, collapse tensioner in vice, use allen wrench to hold tensioner plunger in place, resinstall, slap belt on, put back together.

yes in 4 hi. The amount of weight in the rear of my car should stop wheel hop. 200 lb speaker box, 3 tool boxes, spare alternators, water pump few gal. of antifreeze 2 spare tires etc. prolly 500 lbs of stuff sitting right on the rear struts. The lift is 3 inch strut spacers and then 1-2 inches with the springs.

I talked to 3 dealers today adn tehy all said the same thing. Baja's didnt use the chipped key. The baja's were built with left over legacy stuff. It does have an interrupt relay that shuts down all power to the car when its tripped. I pulled out all the regular relays I could find today and swapped them around and still nothing. I was doing this outside at -20F for 4 hours. I talked to the owner and told him that if I was going to fix it, he HAD to have it towed to my shop or his shop so I could tear into it inside. too much plastic junk to break. I checked alldatapro.com for the location of the interrupt relay and they picture they have is horrible, and its not where they claim its supposed to be. By chance anyone have a FSM for the MY06?

I say stay away from them. I have a 99 forrester EJ25 SOHC in the shop on an engine stand and I'm fixing a bunch of stuff that they broke when the pulled the engine out. My buddy paid 1800 for the engine and then shipping to alaska. so he paid like 1400 for the engine. not worth it considering all the work I have to do to it just to get it in the car.