torxxx

my boss's best friend has an 06 baja that he got for cheap due to flood damage. it wasn't bad at all we didnt have to do anything to the engine and tranny other than change fluids. water barely got the floorboards wet inside. long story short, 2 years later its starting to have security system problems. I'm pretty sure it has factory subaru security system in it. How do I go about disabling a security system like this? I know in the 95-98 outbacks you could just pull the security system module. Are the 2000-2004 the same way?

well thats good that fishing is a major industry over there. I'm an alaskan commercial fisherman. did that basically since I could crawl. I seriously might get an airplane ticket and fly up there to check it out.

thats it, I'm moving to iceland. I've always wanted go there. The pictures just sold me on it. How much is rent for an apartment or a house over there? say 1 or 2 bedroom? also whats the price of gas per gallon? and the last and most important question, how much is a pack of smokes over there? lol

not sure about it being sealed Bill. Last service I didnt put it in and it chattered like a spring type LSD did. made all sorts of strange noises..

So I decided to put the petal to the floor tonite on the drive home since it warmed up. Roads are slick as hell, had a blast driving home from work drifting in and out of traffic on the highway. made me realize that I need more WRC style driving practice year around so I dont get rusty during the summer time. Anyhow, VLSD chunk in the rear diff of my wagon with my little 93 hp modified Ea82 Carb rig. (might even be 93.5 hp now. put some stickers on it last week lol) I'm noticing nasty wheel hop 1st through 3rd gear when I spin out leaving an intersection. I dont remember the car ever having that problem before on the ice. I've had 3 diff VLSD's in it in the last 6 years. two died from too much water getting in the diff and me being too lazy to drain it. Kept this one out of the water all summer changed the fluid to Mobil 1 gear/diff oil and squirted in my tube of magic LSD cream. I dont have sway bars on my rig, matter of fact I refuse to put them on since they limit suspension movement. when you only have 5 inches of travel, you wanna use all 5 inches.. (god that makes me think of something dirty, but I'll refuse to say it for SubaruJunkies sake. dont wanna hurt his feelings) What solutions do I have for this wheel hop? Brand new struts on the rear, new accord springs. Both installed in the last 6 months. Maybe the VLSD is locking up sooner than it usually does and thats causing wheel hop? I'm just trying to figure out a way to fix it or stop it from happening because I really dont want my springs blowing off the bottom spring mount AGAIN. I have GL-10 control arms in the rear that have the sway bar link attachment points.. wondering if I should bolt one on just for the winter and take it off in the summer? What do you guys think?

I got it figured out. it ended up being a FWD to AWD swap that someone must have done a long time ago. Everything was ziptied up to the steering column and stuffed about the fuse box. I warned my boss about taking cars in on trade from people who dont say a lot about the car. No fuse in the FWD connector. pulled the tail shaft housing off, clutches were ate down to nothing. basically just steel clutches left in the housing and remnants of the fiber clutches. I repacked the drum with a set of clutches I had from a rebuild kit, worked like a charm. I was tempted to toggle the Duty C while I was in there, but I left it alone. Didnt wanna explain it to a customer that you flip this little switch and the car is a lot more fun to drive on the ice lol. thanks for the help guys

it very well could have been. again, I wouldnt really know what to look for on these. I've only seen 2 FWD legacies in my life time, and I was so digusted that Fuji actually made them, that I refused to work on those two cars. I guess I'm gonna have to spend some time under neath it and hopefully I can identify the differences between a FWD body thats been converted to AWD

automatic. yes everything is in place where it should be. Axles appeared to be good. boots in take, no grinding noises coming from the rear (broked cup on axle) that would cause the open diff in the rear to free wheel I'm not really after trouble shooting, I just need to know other locations for the FWD fuse. I've never seen a 94 (manuf. date 12/93) not have the FWD fuse right behind the passenger side front strut tower. the car doesnt appear to have gone through a manual to automatic swap or anything, but then again I didnt really look into the car as much as looking under the carpet for a different shaped hole in the tunnel, or the plug missing from where a clutch cable used to be. I guess I better head down to teh shop and take a good look at that part of the car and see if maybe it did have a swap done, and who ever did it didnt run the harness back to where the originally go. I hate these demon cars.. seems like about 1 in 20 are ones that make you scratch your head and ask why?!!? lol

my boss bought a 94 from a lady this weekend for dirt cheap and I fixed up a bunch of stuff on it and now hes got it sold, as long as I can get the 4wd working on it. I've noticed up here in Alaska that people love to stick fuses in these subaru's where they dont need them for normal function. Also they love to plug in the read and test connectors for the check engine lights. this 94 doesnt have the FWD fuse holder on the passenger side strut tower like the 89-93 legacys do. I'm wondering where they put the fuse holder on the 94's so I can see if someone put a fuse in it thinking that it was a "Four wheel drive" fuse and that the light is just burned out on the dash. The power light is functioning properly, its not setting codes or blinking that the duty C is bad, and the car doesnt even try to engage the 4wd. I dont have any more spare clutch packs, tail shaft housings or duty C sol's. for these cars. I got tons of them for the newer style that use a diff Duty C and a diff clutch pack, so I'm kinda screwed. I figured I'd start with teh basics and then if it came down to it I'd have to order up a clutch pack for the rear if the clutches are smoked. I dont think they are because with all 4 tires off the ground there is absolutely NO power going to the back wheels. they dont even attempt to spin. Anyhow, enuff rambling, hopefully someone see's this post and can chime in before my lunch break is over. Thanks in advance

turn signals are in the bumper................................................. otherwise one + screw on top and then pry the light out from the fender. it snaps into the fender

lol it has a one way lock on it to keep it from unwinding. if you did see that and held it out and it still didnt turn, its rusted shut. needs to be replaced.. if ur gonna do that do the disc brake swap.. Down with drums!

DO NOT PUT RTV ON ANY CAM OR CRANK SEALS chances are you will put too much and take a big chance at plugging up the oil port behind the seal. I just took apart a EJ25D today that had this done to the cam seals. 3 out of the 8 oil ports were plugged solid with the RTV, not to mention the pickup screen in the oil sump was covered in blue RTV. seals are meant to go in dry, if they werent, they'd have instructions in the box with teh seal saying put stuff on the outer edge of the seal.

look at the spot where ur drivers side wiper bolts down. There is a pocket there with a lil rubber plug in the bottom of the pocket. I dont know why they put these there but I've lost both of them in my car and when ever it rain my wiring harness would be soaking wet. Clean it up real good, spray it off with brake clean (the green can - non chlorinated) and then fill the hole with The right stuff, or RTV. I prefer the right stuff because RTV doesnt harden up

I know you said you replaced your T-stat... you might want to check it again, it sounds like you either put it in backwards or the t-stat is stuck shut. Yes it is possible for a T-stat to stick shut, I've seen it many times.

How else were you planning on doing the seal? The engine HAS to come out to do the seal well either that or the tranny. I recommend the engine since its easier to do if u dont have a lift. There is no real trick to doing the seal main seal on these engines. They are a one piece seal. I've never packed the back of the seal to keep the spring in place. If its a new seal, the spring isnt goign anywhere unless you start picking at it. A subaru factory seal has grease pre-applied to the inner part of the seal so its lubed for sliding over the crank. pop out your old seal with a screwdriver (make sure you dont score or gouge the seal seat on the engine) clean the seal seat out with a papertowel. I dont use a seal inserter set thingymabobber when I put my seals in. I just use a 3/8" socket extension. start the seal evenly all the way around, and tap it into place with a hammer. when the seal gets most of the way in, use the socket extension to seat it the rest of the way in. When its flush or slightly in past flush its in the right place.

lol my bad on my post. I thought I was in the old school section. lol

if its EA82, take the manifold off, pull all the studs out, spin the flanges on the headers 90 degrees, install new studs into the the unused holes and ur done. weld up the pipe nad away you go. no more problems. I do this before I ever take out a tap or a "hell" coil kit

I think the old SVX looked 20x better than this new car. You can definatly tell that it is a yota by the body lines. Looks like a celica on steriods. Hell, I'd buy one if I had 40 grand sitting around

Its nothing to do with fluids. It sounds like your car is kicking in and out of fail safe mode. Fail safe mode blocks 3rd and 4th gear from engaging. Causes of this fail safe mode that controls shifting patterns: Duty A solenoid (line pressure switch) failing or intermittent connection. I had one in the shop the other day that has similar shift issues and I replaced that Duty A switch and it fixed it. I'm not familiar with the TCU light on those, but I think it has a AT Temp light that will stay on, but the check engine light will not. Are you having that light on?

you are still using the factory Tach or aftermarket tach? if ur using the factory tach, check the screws in the back of the circuit board. I had one in the shop the other day where the screw had backed out fo the circuit board and it wasnt making contact. its marked "TA" on the circut board copper.

I'm in Fairbanks and have tons of GL/Loyale SPFI Ecu's. I work at the biggest Subaru Junkyard in the interior, and prolly all of Alaska. Could have it down there in a day or two depending on the postal service. maybe sooner if we can find someone driving down from up here. If you are interested, pm me and I'll give you my fone #

cougar the car was bought from your neck of the woods.. good old rusty corroded subaru.. its being sold ASAP so we dont have to deal with any new issues from corrosion. I'll get pics of the SVX tommorow if its not cloudy. we are only having 4 hours of sunlight right now, so the light is VERY very flat atm. Need a good clear day to get decent pics outside. Im thinking of lifting the SVX 6 inches. been talkin with The beast about making me a lift for it. put a DR tranny in it with a datsun t-case and some off set 31"s... it'll definatly be a "rare" subaru.

well we fingered it out.. I mentioned it to my buddy when we first started but he swore up and down it couldnt be this.. Dead short in the battery caused all these issues. Put a new batt in, car fired right up Lesson learned, always start with teh stupiest stuff first

I'll try the ground deal when we have the car back in the shop. btw there isnt a gray connector going to the ECM on a 1990-94. they use bright yellow connectors. but yeah as far as I could tell all ground supplies to the ECM had ground. didnt do a continuity test because I left my meter at home. I just used a test light to verify grounds. I'll have to check the CEL wire for high or low voltage. I'm kinda pissed that I got conned into working on this car. the deal for me to Get the SVX was to do head gaskets on a EJ25D and then do a engine swap on this 1994 legacy. both which I did but the guy wont give me the SVX until the 94 runs. I'm tempted to tell him to get f#@%ed and just lose the SVX. its not really worth my time to spend 20 hours dickin around with wiring...

Carquest part # F12284 Superior Exhaust gasket for EA82's. I've had the same set on my car for 6 years now without any leaks. system has been removed several times and reused the same gaskets