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coil has power, pulled a plug wire off the coil and held it about 1/4 inch from the coil back. I didtn get shocked, or see a spark. Fuel pump is NOT coming on. only power at the fuel pump during key cycling is the fuel gauge power wire. the fact that the check engine light only flickers on/off when operating the power window switch on the drivers side is whats got me stumped....

it cranks fine, just doesnt have fuel or fire. ECU has been replaced.

Alright I'm gonna need everyones ideas/input on this one. I got a 1994 Legacy LSI wagon with a manual tranny in it. I've done some work for this guy and this is the last job I have to do so I can get a 1992 SVX touring. I really want the SVX, I've always dreamed of this car and I really really need to get this legacy on the road. History on the car, he bought it at an impound auction. I'm guessing the car was abandoned because the it wouldnt run. Who ever had it blew #1 rod through the top of the block. After taking a quick glance at it, I noticed the Power TR box was missing (screws down right above the dog bone/pitch stopper) the cam and crank sensor harness connectors were cut out and the coil pack was gone. We replaced the stuff that was cut out or missing. Went to start the car and I noticed no check engine with with key on engine off. I connected the green and black scan connectors under the dash still no check engine light. We are getting no spark no fuel. I went through and replaced Every relay under the dash that I could find, took apart all connectors from the engine back to the dash and cleaned them out with electric contact cleaner. I tested the ECU for power and grounds and it seems to have power/grounds were its supposed to from what I can tell. I dont know what wire is the 12v power supply wire to the ECU though. All Data didnt list the wire, I checked with Chux and he mentioned that it was a yellow/red wire. All yellow wires with a red stripe are hot with the key on. I read up on the board and found that the ignition relay is the blue connector/brown relay up above the interior fuse box, I replaced that along with the green connector/round relay and the red 3 wire connector relay thats behind the fuse box. I'm not sure what relay on these is the fuel pump wire. So after all of this tinkering around (pulled the cluster out checked the bulbs replaced the bulbs, swapped out the cluster) and still no check engine light. so as we were getting ready to tow the car out of the shop I was rolling up the windows and noticed that the power window switches would make the check engine light flicker on and off and make the fuel pump power up. so I tried playing with the buttons and cranking on the car. Still no solid check engine light with Key on Engine off and the engine will still not start. Any ideas on what could have melted together causing the power window circuit to make the check engine light/fuel pump/ecu have intermittent power? There are a few connectors under the dash that are unplugged and I've noticed on all legacy's I've worked on that they are generally left unplugged. There is a big black connector next to the radio along with a dark yellow connector that are unplugged. I'm assuming these are Dealer scan ports for ODB 1? Has anyone EVER ran into this electrical problem where the power window circuit makes the ecu lose power? I cant really find a good wiring diagram for these cars. I had a 1992 FSM on my old computer but the hard drive fried and I lost all the Subaru data I had stored on that comp. If there is a way to disable the power window system, maybe I can get the computer to function properly. Another electrical issue I've noticed that may or may not be a cause/symptom of the no start/no fuel/no spark is the flasher relay for the blinkers and hazards makes a solid buzzing noise when they blinkers are turned on. Ok guys chime in with the ideas. Thanks in advance to anyone answering/posting.

I have a few ideas on long travel but it would do away with the conventional CV axle setup. You use basically a drive line with u joints with extended slip yokes. you would have 8 inches of slip yoke in the middle of the driveshafts. You would have to go to a 4 link set up or custom control arms for this to work, but it could be done for way under 10-20k's. Look at what the 4wd version of prerunners use on the front. It would be similar to that. The slip yokes would take out the force that would rip an DOJ out of the cage. I need to draw up this stuff and see if it would work. On a EA series car you would have to completely remove the diff, mustache bar, rear X-member and plate the bottom of the car so you would have something to weld the new custom control arm brackets in to. Or you go solid axle with pivoting leaf spring shackles like they use on the High travel CJ-5's and CJ-7's. ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE YOU JUST HAVE TO GET BAKED ENOUGH TO UNDERSTAND IT!

Rule of thumb for most cars trucks is: automatic tranny : up to 40% loss manual tranny: 8-10% loss again thats theoretical losses. i'm sure someone who doesnt know how to drive a manual (clutch rider) can make 20-30% loss by keepin their foot on the clutch

the thread pitch varies between manufacturer of strut. M12x1.5 and M12x1.25 is the most common of the two. I've seen M10x1.25 on older EA82 replacement struts but the company that made them went out of business a while ago.

radio shack does have the 275's. You can also use two 150 ohms in series and it should make a 300 with slightly lower voltage. I've used resistors to fake out GM Vat's security systems and they usually require a 1.7k ohm resister (they dont make one that size so you have to use 2 smaller resistors and you are allowed a 10% +/- different on ohms for it to still function.

great winter tire. If u get them studded I prefer them over blizzaks. they are cheaper and slightly harder rubber so the last longer on pavement. for "mild offroading" basically just like a all terrain tire. they arent set up for cleaning tread if u were in mud. If you want a good winter/offroad tire. BFG Trailmaker plus 1 or 2. I run 2's on my car (the older style) I've used them for 5 years now summer and winter and I love them.

looking good bro! I love the tires and rims. look very sharp

27's you will be cutting and using a BFH. the 195's might fit without a lift but they are going to rub in the rear when you put weight in the back.

I'll bet a dollar that the wires at the tail lights either pulled out of the socket and is grounding out, or the wire is worn down to the copper at the sill that the tail lights sit in. Also double check the screws holding the dome light into the roof. The screws are the ground and the power wire runs directly above it so if you used too long of screws in it you may have ran a screw into the power wire

I had a welded diff in my lifted 86 wagon. it wasnt that bad on pavement. I live downtown with lots of one way streets and tight turns so in the summer I pull it out and winter I put it back in. Never broke an axle from it but I have side swiped a few curbs and snowbanks with the rump roast end from having to MAKE it oversteer to turn.

our driveline shop up here uses mazda ujoints on the Ea82s. They were actualyl fairly cheap. 40 dollars a u joint. thats parts and labor. When one fo mine goes out, Io'm going to have them replace both of them just for the hell of it. and it is a greaseable u joint! woot lol

see if you can find a harness diagram that shows the pin's on the intake harness connector. That will show you where to splice in the wire to

new struts all the way around. 1986-89 Honda Accord FRONT springs and you will be installing them on the rear of your subaru. You will want to buy them new from Napa. I got a set of them for 45 bucks this spring. Order them for an accord with a 5 speed and No A/C. This will be a lighter spring combo than if you were to get them for an automatic with AC (about 350 pound difference in the vehicle weight) Spring upgrade for the front is being said to be Ford Tempo springs. I havent really heard too much about it, but its been mentioned on here a few times. Hopefully some of the other guys will chime about it because I'm wanting to put those springs on my car also.

Listen to what GD is telling you. a 1994 loyale in running condition is barely worth a grand in Washington. You are going to put the same amount of money into repairing the engine you have............ Not to mention paying someone 100 dollars to diagnose that the waterpump is bad and the head gaskets are bad. Cut your losses now and get a newer car. sell yours as is where is, take the money from that and the 1000 bucks ur gonna spend fixing your engine and buy a 90-94 legacy. I'm sure theres loads of them on craigs list for 1 to 2 grand. If you really wanted to get fancy, get a 96-99 Legacy (just for the ODB2 and the extra 15 hp The only reason you see the guys on this board still driving the GL series cars (85-89) is because we lift them and need the dual range transmissions. I'm guessing theres over 100 of these cars that people have done the EJ22 swap on strictly for reliability. I still have a carb'd EA82 in my lifted wagon and the only reason why its still in there is it still runs. Once it dies, its getting a EJ series.

I will second the vac supply issue. worked on many of these cars over the years and have never seen the actuators go bad. the vac canisters will crack sometimes or the line will get pulled off next to the EGR.

ok, I have a 93 at my shop that I fought for a while replaced a bunch of crap on it and could NEVER get spark during cranking. replaced dist, coil with bracket amplified etc. ECM, ignition switch etc. What ended up getting it to run was putting a diode inline on the ignition on wire off the ignition switch harness. I posted on here and someone suggested it so I tried it and it worked. fired right up. I hate electrical work so I didnt look into it after I got it fixed but for some reason on the loyales only this was a problem. I havent spent the time comparing the wiring diagrams of the 85-89 vs 90-94's but something is different in the ignition side of the harness. Might be worth trying. diodes are like a dollar at radio shack

this is a common problem with these cars. I've fought seized axles for days before. I did find something that works very well for getting them off. its kind of dangerous but it works about 50% of the time. Take a tap and thread in zerc fittings into both sides of where the pin normally sits (only has to go down the thickness of the DOJ cup. and then put a grease gun on one of the zerc fittings and bump the hell out of it. The grease HAS to go somewhere so what it does is slide inbetween the splines on the DOJ and the axle and it will actually break the axle free using hydrostatic pressure (or some scientific name like that, cant remember exactly. an old guy showed me this years ago) The only other way of getting it off is take a torch with MAP gas and put the flame into the hole where the pin sits heat it up, spray with PB blaster and repeat a few times. the heat sucks the PB into the splines and helps bust that crap loose. When you go to reassemble, put some copper antisieze or Lithium grease (the red stuff) all over the axle splines and inside the doj cup where the splines go. it helps to run a wire wheel over the splines too. I do this right before spring and right before winter and never have a problem with it. But then again I'm too cheap to buy new rear axles, so I run JY axles in the rear. The front only gets NEW (not reman'd junk) since they are the steerables and its never fun when one seizes up at 75 mph. The do make those cheesy split boot deals too that never seal for more than a week. lol

dont use wd-40.. it dont really work for lubrication.. WD = water displacement formula 40. The only real lubrication it has in it is fish oil (we used absorbent rags soaked in WD-40 for halibut bait when we are out sport fishing) The best thing for lube that actually sticks and stays is Corrosion-X. its a bit spendy but its worth the 15 bucks. We use it on marine applications and it stands up to constant salt water spray and doesnt wash, rinse or wear off.

Forget HID lights.. buy a set of light force 5.5 or 6 inch lights, put 100 watt halogens in it and be done with it. I've ran cars off the road with my two bumper mounted LF's. The GT comes with the Subaru roof rack iirc with the lil cross bars. they are perfect height to mount the lightforces on. and the shelf on the front bumper is also a good place to mount them. You can wire them in with a relay to your highbeam switch so you have just the stock soob headlights on low beam and then when u hit the dimmer switch u get high beam soob and lightforces on at the same time. Personally I have mine on a toggle switch because theres times in the winter that I drive with my high beams in on the 4 lane highway (divided) but I dont want to kill the people on the other side of the highway lol

I quickly scanned through this post and didnt see a year listing for the tempo springs. guessing early 90's? I got 2 at the shop atm that are parts rigs. gonna rip them apart tommorow and try them out

Check your hinges on your door. I had the same problem as you, but I adjusted the hell out of the door glass regulators and everything and could NEVER get it to seal up the way it should. I grabbed the door when it was open and lifted up on it and sure enough I had slop in the pins on the hinges. Replaced em, no more air leak, no more water leak. The rubber is still shot but at least the hinges sealed it up long enough for me to try to track down new door moldings. We really need to find a source for these. I'd like to replace all the door rubbers all the way around my car. Especially the dust seal that has those stupid little T shaped plastic fasteners that rip out of the rubber and you can never get them to stick back in. I've urethaned my moldings on, but I'd still like to find a source for OEM replacements.

Me and a friend just scored a 89 XT6 for 50 bucks. It has a major oil leak on the drivers side of the engine. I took a quick look at it, and I'm thinking its the cam case o-ring (like the EA82's have) it leaks fairly fast constant stream coming off the cam case. These engines seem a bit wider (might just be because of the extra two cylinders) So I guess my questions are: 1. Are these parts the same as a EA82? And how is the availability of these parts now a days? 2. Previous owner had a dog that chewed the hell out of the passenger side dash pad above the glove box. I've never pulled a dash out of one of these. is that dash pad servicable? or do I have to pull the entire dash out? 3. It has an automatic in it. Are these ones in the Xt6 a 3 or a 4 speed auto? and is it worth a crap? I'm kinda thinking about keeping it to give to my girlfriend to drive since she cant drive a manual. If its a 3 speed, I'm just going to sell the car. What about the bell housings? Are they the same as a EA82 housing? I might pop my spare dual range in there if it is. Thanks for whoever responds