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GD got a part #? I came across a free 32/36 with manual choke that I was gonna rebuild and toss on my car.

I do bearings on my ea82 once a year up front. they have gotten so cheap price wise that you cant go wrong. to do both sides and dust seals 4 bearings, 4 dust seals I think I spent maybe 80 bucks on parts and a tube of grease..... but then again my car gets driven a lot harder than prolly 90% of the cars on this forum. Daily driver/rally car/puddle stomper/hunting rig. it gets rode extremely hard and put away dripping wet lol..

well if its EA82 you have 4 holes to choose from.. run new studs in the empty holes that were never used. they are pre-threaded. cut your pipe about an inch or inch and a half down from the flange and rotate 90 degrees and weld the pipe back in place.. Now you have brand new threaded holes that have never been used. Do yourself a favor and use high temp anaerobic sealer on the new studs your putting in. Done deal brand new exhaust studs/holes etc.. BTW - #1, JB weld wont work it will burn off and it stinks like poop when it burns. #2, You arent going to "tac" weld steel to aluminum

when you said you "flushed the system" what did you use to do it. Unless you had high pressure water (flush gun has garden hose attachment and air line attachment) that is the proper way to flush a system. that prestone junk dont work at all its just a waste of $. For what you can pick up a Copper/Brass radiator for these cars now a days, I recommend doing that instead of getting a proper flush done you'll pay about the same price. I got mine up here in Alaska for 107 dollars 2 row CBR. Do a head test on it, napa sells a head test kit for like 25 bucks its got blue watery stuff u put in a test tube that you plug in to your radiator where the cap goes and if it turns yellow, you have a HG leak. One of those laser temperature guns is another way to confirm that your temp gauge on the dash is workin properly. I dont trust any gauge subaru made in the 80's-90's they were all junk.

great job on that. looks awesome

dont let these guys scare you off from rebuilding a hitachi. mine was the first carb I've ever tore apart and it was very easy. the most important thing to change on these carbs is the needle and seat. and make sure to spend the extra time setting your float level.

turning your timing up is going to give you about 0.2 HP... pointless imo I don't think anyone's gotten the N/A EA82 much over 110 HP. maybe 120 hp but you are putting tons of money into an engine that was never designed or capable of making that much power. Put a EJ22 in it and be done with it If you wanted to make the car fun, pull out a front CV axle, take it apart so you just have the outer DOJ (goes pretty easily, take the boot off the big side, take the snap ring out around the big cup and pull) stuff the DOJ back through the axle. Now your car is RWD. take the rear diff out and weld the hell out of it. Now you just made a fun EA82 car.

none of that really affects timing. Higher octane fuel would allow slightly higher timing. So would removal of any/all carbon on the intake/heads. You wont be gaining really anything by just turning your timing up. You would need longer duration cams (valve timing) to gain more power if any. EA82 is a very weak engine power wise with not many options to get them over 100 hp. and as for advancing your ignition timing, turn it up until it pings on acceleration. There is no "set" number for these engines. each one is different. my carb'd EA82, if I get anywhere over 10 it pings like crazy. SPFI runs at 20 BTDC so you might be able to hit 24 or so but they also are prone to detonation. Just remember detonation = holes in pistons

gary - way to dig out a thread thats been discussed hundreds of times. lol I through we buried this along time ago

I've NEVER had a N/A set of heads crack down into the coolant or oil galleries. (done 100's of headgaskets on these in the past 10 years) Only had that problem on turbos. It cracks because of the lack of metal there, and its a low grade metal. I dont think I've ever seen a EA82 head that didnt have the hairline crack between the valves Trying to remember what the rule of thumb was that subaru said in the TSB. Something to the point of if the edge of a dime will fit in the crack, it needs to be addressed. If it was smaller than that it was fine. It was something like that (read it a long time ago when I first did HG's on my EA82)

There are several rubber bushings with a metal sleeve and plastic collars that can be replaced on the 5 speeds. it wont take out internal shift fork wear ofc, but it will take out the rowing effect. There also is a rubber mount bushing deal that bolts the shift linkage to the bottom of the car that tears away from its mount and will make a sh1t-ton of movement in it

GD is right. the correct way to fix it is junk it and put a 5 speed in it. I've done the roll pin drill out a few times and had great success with it. I used a stainless steel bolt that just had threads about 1/2 inch up the shaft and was solid the rest of the way and drilled it to the point where I had to actually hammer the bolt through. took out all the slop. Now if I can figure out where I need to mod my 5 speed linkage I'll be golden. Keeps hitting my plastic trim that the shifter boot snaps into. broke about 10 of them this summer. only way I see to fix it is actually cut the shifter and weld it back behind the cut.. offset like this ------------______________ that should make up the difference

a caliper is really the only way to tell if the duration is different. longer duration cam will have a wider peak of the lobe. Someone on here may have a data sheet on the cams. ( I too am interested as I have a MPFI n/a sittin out back at my shop) My battlewagon has a SPFI block/heads/cam in it running a carb and I've noticed a performance difference from my carb block, so I'm assuming the SPFI cam must be slightly different. It wouldnt surprise me if the MPFI N/A cams were different than the turbo mpfi. the N/A mpfi seemed to have the most power made so I'm guessing they must have a different cam along with the multi port to give it the extra power.

well the price of the clutch kit isnt bad, but the shipping is fubar'd.... 100 dollars for regular snail mail. 150.00 for 2 day ups.. amazing what they will charge for a 40 pound box. Shucks/Krager etc. will ship it for 51 dollars and the price of the kit was 161.00 so I think I'ma go with them. hopefully its a decent quality clutch. Actually I have a XT6 I'm looking at buying I wonder if the clutch would be worth using? I'm going to put the 5 lug swap on the loyale so I will have the thing apart. It has a 5 speed in it, maybe I thought pull that out and use that trans with the 2.2L. might hold up to the extra torq a lil better..

The balancing of the flywheel? how critical is that? thats been the biggest worry I've had. As for the drive line, I know the impreza wagon driveline is 2 inches shorter than a lego wagon so it may actually be the right size for the swap. as for the axles, I will prolly buy them in town here or pull them out of one of the turbo wagons we have at the shop. the shipping on them would cost me more than the axles themselves would. Ok good well I got that covered, just need to pull the wiring harness and start picking it apart. thanks chux

well I scored a killer legacy today. 200k on the odometer but I found paperwork for a 45k mile engine put in less than 50k miles ago so I'm excited about that. Car runs, but needs a clutch so I'm gonna give my boss the tranny and keep the rest of the car for myself.. Price - FREE! kid was leaving town tonite and had to have it gone so I towed it off title in hand. Anyhow, I have my adapter plate, my EJ22 and a complete wiring harness out of a 1991. I dont really have the money to send the harness to numbchux so i'm going to attempt it myself stripping it down. As for the flywheel due to time constraints I'd prefer to buy one thats already modded off someone on the board. anyone have a spare layin around that I can buy? And #2, I'm having a really hard time finding somewhere that sells the XT6 clutch kit. I've checked all the local parts stores and they dont even show a listing for it. I've checked with a few places online and they list a part #, but they say they dont stock them, and they wont order it for me. Does Anyone have a part # and a place to order the clutch kit? I've noticed CMiller scored a new one somewhere. Do you have that info? #3 - Since this engine is going in my 92 loyale with a mint body on it, I'm thinkin bout puttin the EJ 5 speed in with it too. I have access to a free 1998 Impreza 5 speed thats been baby'd its entire life. I talked to the owner of the car and he said he's never grinded a gear, replaced the clutch every 35k miles regardless of if it needed it or not. He was also one of those preventative maintenence guys. He replaced the clutch cable every year as soon as it seemed to start dragging more than it did when the car was brand new. Am I going to have any fitment issues using a newer 5 speed vs using the 1990-94 5 speed? And what am I going to be looking at for a driveline?

they will interchange on the front. the dampening effect may be different 2 to 4wd because of the difference in weight of the vehicle, and the spring rate is prolly lighter for a 2wd since the transmission weighs 70 pounds lighter. But I know for a fact they will bolt up. you can get the struts from Napa let me find you a part # Strut - Sensa-Trac - Left Front Left NS 71877SS $74.09 Strut - Sensa-Trac - Right Front Right NS 71876SS $74.09 Strut - Gas - Front KYB Brand - GR-2 Right ATM K233022 $102.59 Strut - Gas - Front KYB Brand - GR-2 Left ATM K233023 $102.59 The prices are off the online site, so for your area not sure what the prices will be. The ones up here in Alaska stock the Sensatrac struts but had to order the KYB's for me. I've used both and I prefer the sensatracs they are lifetime warranteed no questions asked.

I'm leaning towards low fuel pressure. I've had several EJ22 cars do that. keep in mind visually checking fuel pressure is very hard to gauge. 20 psi comes out about the same as 50 psi if u pull the hose off and turn the key on. lift up the carpet in the back and tap on the fuel pump assembly (while its still in the tank) if it seems to run fine after u hammer on it a few times, pump is dying (brushes are losing contact) There is a way to do an amp draw test on a fuel pump to check that but I cant remember how it goes ( I just know what pins to test on a vortec chevy) Fail Safe mode: Fuel maps are cut down, ignition timing retarded are two of things I know it does when it goes into limp home mode.

Make sure your vacuum lines are hooked up to the 4WD solenoids. And also make sure the solenoids are functioning properly. not sure what the test procedure is on them, but if u push the button on the stick shift, one solenoid should open and apply vac to the diaphram on the side of the transmission. Also its not uncommon for the wires going to the button to break off due to old age

GL-10... turbo or non turbo? IIRC in 86 they only made a turbo GL-10 (from what I've seen up here in Alaska. havent seen a non turbo GL-10 MY85, MY86.) you could have an Idle Air controller on the fritz also. They act and a choke/high idler for a fuel injection system.

I'm sure the dealer could get ahold of a new IAC, but I'd cry when I saw the price. I've always cleaned them out with brake clean and they seemed to work fine after that. You could always goto a junkyard and find a low mileage car and snag one off it. Your engine would have to be running pretty poorly and have tons of oil blowing by the crankcase lines to actually mess up a IAC. I'd get a test schematic on the IAC (out of a FSM or chiltons) and follow it and make sure you arent having an electrical failure to it.

Replace.. Doing boots became cost inefficient about 10 years ago. I had to sit down and do all the math with a customer at work not too long ago explaining to him that its cheaper to just replace the entire Cv Axle, than it was to replace both boots. Not to mention he didnt know how long he drove with the boots ripped (they werent clicking yet) but that doesnt meant that mud/gravel etc hadnt got up inside the joint and started to wear on it. Another great thing about replacing the axles is lifetime warranty!! I have two sets of fronts for my car (Napa brand, we have to ship EMPI axles up from the states and get raped on the shipping) So I drive one set til they snap or click, pull them out destroy the boots and put my new set in. ship off the "broken" set and get them warranteed

Yes I have. when it happened it jammed the axle from turning, put me in the ditch. thank god I was in 2wd when it happened. I put it in 4 low, backed up onto the road and went forward/reverse a few times WOT and it snapped it completely off, climbed under the car ripped the rest of the shaft out and drive home in RWD.

most likely it just needs extended. start with 3/4 of an inch longer should take care of it. Just remember, 4 inch lift doesnt mean 4 inch longer shift mods..

A lil bit more info would be very useful. Carb or Fuel Injection? Did you check the fuseable links up front next to the battery? your fuel gauge wiring is on a different circuit than the fuel pump its self. The wiring for the fuel lvl sender is plumbed into the top of the fuel tank underneath the carpet in the truck/back compartment area. its not uncommon for the ground wire to corrode off the sending unit (mines done it a few times) If your car is Fuel Injected, the pump only gets power for the first two seconds the key is turned on and then it turns off until the engine runs. Carb'd the pump will run the entire time you crank on the engine. Fuel injection has a fuel pump relay that sits on top of the ECU right next to a brown square ignition relay. The fuel pump relay has a darker blue connection and its a round relay. Check that, switch it out with one of the head light relays.