torxxx

weird.. my moms 2002 lego has a 2.2 in it not the 2.5.. I wonder if its an option?

thanks for the info. I prolly know the guy at the SVX board. he used to go to school up here where I live IIRC. He's been tearin apart those motors for years.. and as for the brakes, I looked at my parts car and they seem small for the size of the car. I imagine STI brakes would work a lot better than the SVX brakes do.. The rear pads are tiny.. same size as lego brakes. thats part of the reason why I suggested the brakes being a prob. And a few years back ppl on this board were talking about the brakes being one of the weak points. Anyone have a part # for an external trans filter they've used so I know what to look for? and turbone there is a way to plumb in a aux trans cooler and u just put a ball valve on it to shut the loop off to the aux cooler for the winter times. We've done that with some of the newer dodge automatics (they area mercedes drivetrain) because they have issues also with heating up in teh summer but running too cold in the winter

So I've traded out rebuilding a EJ25D with slightly bent valves for a great condition 1992 SVX. Only thing wrong with it is the passenger side marker light is broke.. which I need to buy off a board member if someone has one. if you do pm me please. now on to the questions. I know the automatic trans in them are problematic. they need fresh fluid often and an aux. trans cooler added to them which mine is going to get. Also the brakes are under rated. 1. What brake swap is recommended for the SVX? 2. What other problems did ppl have with this car? I want to get this thing in cherry shape for my wife to drive for the winter. It has a problem with #4 cylinder spark plug always being wet. I'm guessing its got really weak spark to that cylinder or the injector is stuck wide open. other than that the car runs great. Chime in please and let me know things to check out on this car. And what is a 1992 SVX with touring package worth?

that belt dressing stuff is a waste of $. Ok this is dangerous so if you lose a finger, dont blame me. I'm not liable for what I'm about to say. With the engine running, take emery cloth and hold it into the V on each pulley. It will rough up the surface and make the belt grab. simple green was a bad idea to use on it. simple green extracts fats and oils from what ever it comes in contact with. like your hands for example. Every notice after u get simple green on ur hands they feel slimy for a while after words, even after you wash them? thats because its extracted fat out of the first few layers of your skin. Its doin the same with the belt. Belts are made from rubber and oil. So the chemical is pulling bits of oil out and its getting on the pulleys. Use non-chlorinated brake clean next time to clean off the pulleys and belts

GM uses this on some of their new engines. the 4200 6 cylinder in the Envoy uses this technology and its a great idea. It controls cam timing for more performance. So you have the PCM controlling ignition timing (when the spark happens) and then the valve timing is adjusted basically controlling when the valves open and close. it doesnt make the duration longer, but it will open the intakes sooner and close the exhausts later.

wow that headset is a great deal. The look semi o-ringed. I'd say get the set either way, and u can always not use the HG's that come with it. for 75 bucks for that engine, that barely covers the cam seals, valve cover gaskets/grommets and the intake and exhaust gaskets.

EA series heads HAVE to be surfaced when you do the heads. the cooling ports on these are very small compared to EJ series semi closed and open deck heads (meaning they have a LOT more coolant passing through them) The lack of big cooling ports mean that the heads get hotter and have a higher chance of warping. you will have bubbles for a little while all the air is being bled out of the system. Try parking the car with teh nose up in the air (park on those mechanic ramps or something) and run it like that until the themostat opens a few times with the radiator cap off. If you keep having bubbles, you may have a HG leak, but if it doesnt over heat, I'd say drive it. My current battlewagon has had the bubble issues for 4 years now and I refuse to fix it simply because it gets great heat in the winter time and it doesnt over heat at all. I can leave it idling outside on a 90F day all day long and it never gets over half temp

Anaerobic Sealer is what should be used to put these cases together. I know for a fact that is what GM uses on their diffs, t-cases and trannys. RTV is a thing of the past now a days.. The Right stuff is far superior to RTV.. RTV doesnt like to seal if there is ANY residue or gas, oil, diesel, ATF, coolant etc. on any of the surfaces. The Right stuff will seal up with residues still there. I've put auto tranny pans on with ATF literally dripping off the pan and it sealed up just fine. Anaerobic Sealer stays in a semi liquid from until the mating surfaces are compressed together. A lack of air causes anaerobic to start curing. And for cleaning it out, 10w30 will work for a short time. it doesnt have the shearing strength that 75-90W does. dont abuse it while it has 10w30 in it and it should be fine. I say 30-50 miles would be more than adequate.

That looks like an open diff to me also. VLSD carrier, u cant see the internals very well (the spider gears) because its almost a sealed unit for the fluid pressure build up. I have a diagram of the diffs of never cars if u need it. Pm me

Ford F-series = pickup fuel pumps. They are mounted in the tank, so good luck with that. Use a turbo EA82 fuel pump instead

Well I'm not sure what kind of info you are looking for but here's the quick way to do the axles and what axle you need. Replacing just the joint is a thing of the past just like replacing boots. Axles for these cars are about 70 dollars a piece now and a lot of them come with lifetime warranty 25 spline Front CV axles for Turbo only (N/A engines are 23 spline) 1, Remove Cotter pin from castle nut, break castle nut loose (36mm Socket) 2. Jack up car, put on jack stands, take off tires 3. Take off brake caliper, pad bracket and hub (some ppl dont do this but I find it makes it ALOT easier to install the outer stub side of the axle 4. Remove inner control arm bolt (holds to engine x-member) 5. Remove bottom sway bar link bolt to the control arm 6. Punch of pin on inner axle stub (3/16, 7/32 or 6mm roll pin punch) 7. Pop axle off inner stud 8. Hammer axle through wheel bearing with a deadblow hammer (so you dont fubar the threads is why you use a deadblow hammer. you can also use a brass drift) Before you install new axle, slap some new grease in the bearings. and reverse the list above to reinstall. Make sure to torq the castle nut to 165 ft/lbs ( I put breaker bar on it and stand on bar, and bounce once thats about 170 pounds)

No CEL codes? I've always noticed that SPFI has a lag when you floor it compared to carb'd EA82's. A few other things that will cause the problem you are talking about: Bad fuel (old fuel that has lost its boom properties) Vacumn Leaks EGR valve opening too fast. One way to check the EGR is stick a BB in the vac line going to the back of the EGR valve. it will disable the vac to it disabling it completely. EGR is only used on acceleration so thats why I suggested it

Friend brought me his forester that he had just bought a few weeks ago. Its been having major #1 misfire problems. Before he brought it to me, he changed plugs/wires/injectors full tuneup etc on the engine and it still has the misfire. Considering its a DOHC valve smasher I decided to pull off the T-belt covers and inspect the timing marks to see if everything was in sync and it was. The only thing I noticed was it had a brand new belt on it.. Meaning 1 of 2 things.. Someone did preventative maintenance on it (which there is a severe lack of up here in Alaska) or the belt broke and they replaced it. I'm leaning towards belt broke at an idle due to the compression readings I had #1 125 psi #2 184 psi #3 179 psi #4 180 psi The numbers arent within 10% so I'm thinking it has a valve seat issue or a slightly bent valve that wont seat shut all the way. I've seen it happen a few times on these DOHC engines when the belt broke and it actually didnt bent the hell out of the valves. so talking with him, I mentioned what it could be and he said just fix it. He doesnt care what it costs to pull the head off and replace all the valves on #1 and do the head gaskets on 2/4 since I'll have the engine out anyways. He is planning on selling the car and wants it in top shape for the friend he is selling it to. The good news on this job is I'm getting a 1992 SVX out of the deal for doing the work. The SVX is in great shape 175k miles on it but it runs like a champ, and doesnt have any signs of trans issues from what I could tell. Either way its a EG33 and I've always wanted one to play with. so yeah anyone else thing of ANYTHING else that would be causing this misfire on #1? Its massive at idle and as u drive it seems to smooth out. I plan on doing the HG's and valves just to humor him but I want to make sure thats going to take care of the issue. What do you guys think?

you actually can just use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a 22mm socket to get the crank pulley nut off. Brace it against the ground with a pipe over the end of the breaker bar (drivers side of the pulley) and use the starter. just bump the starter over and it will break the nut loose. If you dont like that way, get a clutch/fan pulley wrench. they have 2 pegs on one side and 3 pegs on the other side. They are like 30 bucks. (they are made to hold water pump pulleys stationary while you break the clutch/fan loose) but they work just fine for a crank pulley on a soob Also I've found that for me, its faster and easier to pull the engine out to do the heads. 20-30 minutes and I can have a EJ engine on the floor. I like this way because you can put the engine on a stand and rotate the engine around to get all the old coolant and oil out of the engine. And its also easier/faster for putting on timing belts and checking for oil leaks (oil pan gasket, rear main seal (since they seem to leak more often on a EJ engine vs a EA engine)

snow tires are a must with AWD not to mention a turbo. It makes these soobs almost handle like they are on dry pavement. Keep in mind I'm in Alaska so we have 6 months of snow/ice driving. I'm able to drive around safely at full speed limits (or a bit past ) year round running mud/snow studded tires. I am NOT a fan of blizzaks. I do not believe in "studless" winter tires. Nothing compares to havin spikes out when you are sliding into an intersection or a stop sign, or the back of another car. I can definatly notice a difference between studded and non studded tires. studs also help keep you tracking straight on icy roads. we had some nasty freezing rain last year and the ppl with blizzaks were sliding completely sideways off of flat roads. the ppl with studs were tracking straight on the same road, in similar cars. Just my 2 pennies.. with 15 years of ice/snow driving in Alaska all in Subarus!

I know ppl hate using bigger springs on this board, but I have 1987 Honda Accord 5 speed without A/C Front Springs mounted on my rear struts.. I love them I cant stand driving a EA series car with out them. I actually had to take an inch of lift out of rear lift kit so I wasnt snapping axles left and right. People say it limits suspension, but I can still bottom out my struts when I'm 4 wheeling so I dont really see what they mean by it.

depends.. VLSD is not serviceable. clutch type LSD I'm sure can be done, but you'd have to find a source for the parts and since they werent produced as an aftermarket unit, goodluck!

hell yeah. thats the chart I was talking about. I had it in a PDF format but that one works just fine. Thank you!

My oil pressure is somewhere around -40 PSI.. Typical Subaru gauges... break everytime you look at them wrong. Engine usually ran at 70 psi at start up when cold idle - 25 psi (when hot) driving - 30-60 psi IIRC from what I was told on this board.. Soob pumps are volume pumps not pressure pumps. The volume of oil being pushed through your engine is way more critical than what PSI. but then again the pressure goes up when you get a lower volume of oil moving (such as cold oil) and the pressure drops as the volume increases.. Somethin like low flow/high pressure high flow/low pressure

The best way to "service" the HLA's is to soak them in ATF and work them back and worth in the ATF. ATF is a high detergent oil/fluid that seems to work well to cleaning the sludge/dirt/grime out of the Lashers. Rule of thumb with them is within 10 pumps up and down they should start hardening up and stop being spongey. I might be off a few on the numbers of pumps but it doesnt take many for them to stiffen up. I personally have never cleaned the ones in any of the engines in my own cars. I've always found engine reseal took care of the ticking issue. the 3 oil pump o-ring/seals and the cam case o-rings always seemed to be the issues with the ticking. It allows air to enter the oil and makes the HLA's tick like crazy And no, they dont all need to be replaced.. try what I suggested with ATF and if they stiffen up after cleaning them, they are probably good. Check the camcase to cylinder head seam on the bottom side and see if there is oil leaking there. if there is, thats probably whats making your engine tick

General just leave the post alone.. Take your 12k posts and go outside and get some sunlight. I promise it wont hurt you. Its obvious you dont like Kiwi and are leary of the whole deal, so walk away completely and let the guys that are actually interested and trust the guy get the info we want. As for what the tranny's are and what the ratio is. All you need is the serial/part # off the tranny. Somewhere on one of my computers I have a PDF file of all EJ series transmissions that Subaru made and it shows the ratios, the Diff types, the gearing ETC. I am going to try to dig that chart out tonite ( I hope I still have it) if not maybe someone else around here may have it. It listed out like 50 some different transmissions that were made over the years. I will post back a link to the file *if* I can find it on my computers. Thanks for your work on all this Kiwi and I assure you there is people that are greatful for you putting some time in it. Not all of us Americans are arrogant *********************s

An E type socket is the Opposite of a torx driver.... its a female head style faster (which is why it needs a socket instead of a driver)

thats a funny story.. Two years ago at the place I used to work at we got a legacy that had the same thing.. Engine was in the truck tore apart. I started digging around back there and it was a non-turbo EJ20 also. So they did make their way all the way across the USA, even up here in Alaska as pullout engines.

the starter trick is the only way to go! Done that 1000's of times and it works every time. Just make sure you have the breaker bar on point of rotation (drivers side down to ground) or it'll throw that breaker bar about 50 feet in the air lol

There is no Antitheft or auto start on this. I've replaced basically EVERYthing to do with the ignition.. Disty, Cap, rotor, coil, resistor deal for the coil, plugs, wires, ignition switch, ecu, throttle body, all the relays. I'm guessing that there is a internal wiring issue somewhere in the harness. I'm in the process of getting my boss to just part out the car. its not really worth fixing in a mechanics eyes but in an old mans eyes, every car he has is worth its weight in gold. thanks for the responses