torxxx

I used a 12 point 8 mm socket on a 1/4 drive to get my stub bolts out when I did mine. So that is an option instead of trying to track down the E10 socket.. and it takes about 2 hrs total time to do the swap. make sure you have a grinder on hand. Some cases have to be ground down some dont

I would LOVE to have one of those gear boxes. it would work sweet as hell in my project EJ powered Loyale. high compression DOHC 2.5 with a EJ dual range 4.11 would be killer! keep me informed. I'd prefer to have mine shipped to seattle where my sister could pick it up and get it shipped up here to alaska for me.

Seems like every time I post a question on here I get zero responses. 21 views and no one has any ideas or advice?

1st gear 5300 2nd gear 5000 3rd gear 4800 4th gear 4600 thats where I shift mine.. With the lift and big tires I have no power if I shift at any lower RPMS. If I'm in deep mud, add 1000 RPMS to all the shift speeds.. LOL got 310k miles out of the first one, just passed 200k miles on the second engine. Never had a prob with high rpm shifts.

Ok, long story short went back to work at the sooby shop in town and one of the old guys there has been workin on this car for 2 weeks trying to get it to run. He basically threw parts at it until he got frustrated. SPFI EA82 in it I've reset the timing belts, replaced injector, verified disty was stabbed correctly. Its got decent spark, getting fuel as far as I can tell through the injector. 150 lbs compression on every cylinder, new plugs new wires. I went through and checked everything the guy had replaced and its all correct stuff for the car. He replaced the ECU and doesnt know what one was the original so I have 3 ecu's out of random EA series cars to try with it. So crank away on the engine and it doesnt really even try to fire. I did get it to run once, and it sounded good so I shut it off to put everything back together and it wouldnt restart. Weird things I've noticed compared to my 86 wagon. When cranking on my 86, all electronics get shut off temporarily (stereo, blower motor, cig lighter, lights etc) On this car, it doesnt shut anything off when cranking. Tells me there is a relay issue perhaps? I'm wondering of its a ignition relay thats sticking or not opening thats making it not want to run. I've replaced what I think is the fuel pump relay (blue connector relay stuck with the other 4 relays) Is there any other relays that I should be checking and if there is where are they located at? All fuses are good, fuseable links are good. So yeah chime in guys give me some ideas on what else could be keeping this thing from starting. one out of 100 starts it started and that was it. It has to be an electrical issue some where. Thanks in advance for the responses!

I've rebuilt a few of these and tuned many. Words of Advice. When you go to change the needle/seat the seat wont want to unscrew out of the housing. its made of very soft brass and the head strips easily. the safest way to get it out his light heat with a propane torch and spray pb blaster on it when its hot. the heat will suck the pb blaster into the threads and break the rust/corrosion loose. Set Idle speed to 750-850 RPMS and make sure engine is warm before making adjustments As far as tuning it, unless you are rejetting a hitachi you wont need to do much. basically setting the idle mixture screw will be it. You will need a want to have a vacumn gauge on hand. Once you have the carb reinstalled, put the vacumn gauge on a constant vac supply (not a ported supply) Make sure you are somewhere between 20-25 Kpa ( I think its measured in KPA cant remember) after you verify you dont have any vac leaks and are getting correct vacumn start playing with the mixture screw (its capped off from the factory so you'll need to drill out the housing to expose the screw) its located directed in the front middle of the carb and has a cap about the size of a dime on it. Turn the mixture screw either way. What your trying to do is get the engine to not idle up or down when you create a vacumn leak. your mixture will be set correctly when you can unplug a constant supplied vacumn line and the idle stays the same. Good luck with it. sucks there isnt really any other adjustments that can be made. Make sure you clean out the air bleeds good when ur rebuilding.. They get plugged up and make the primary air bleed drip fuel into the throttle plate when the engine is idling

Run a better ground wire system for your engine car and run better grade wires to the headlights. I did this on my car and the headlights seemed a lot brighter. Also make sure your lenses dont have water or dust inside of them.

buy the actual "zip tie" brand. if they dont have the metal locking clip inside the end, they arent the real ones. these are very strong, I've held together a lot of things on snowmachines and 4 wheelers with these and they rarely break. And then when u need the do t-belts on it, u can just take a exacto knife or a carpenters knife and a quick flick the covers are off

I got a 07 sport at work that was hit in the passenger rear quarter panel. Body work was done, I dont know who did it I cant get an answer on it so I can't talk to the tech that did the work to find out of they cut the harness going to the evap canister system. I'm having a CEL code P0448 that I cant get rid of. I've rewired the harness to get away with any shorts in the wires. I've tested ohms of the wires and have continuity through all wires up to infront of where the damage is. I cant find a good diagram on alldata or mitchellonline that show that system and wiring in detail. I tested the connectors at the sol. and I get 26 ohms which from what i've been read and told, 20-30 ohms is within spec for a sol that is ok. From what I can tell by looking at it the vent sol. is located built into the evap system correct? and the purge control sol. is the one that mounts above the evap box? I need to get this fixed, and I'm looking at buying another evap canister, thinking that the short is on the sol inside the box. what else would cause p0448 other than a short in the wiring? Someone else had the hoses routed wrong and I replaced the to the best I could tell by looking at older cars. I need a diagram of the pin connectors for the vent sol at the ECM so I can test for power/grounds. Can someone help me out with this? Thanks in advance

yah I'm not sure about the belt being the right one or not. Like I said though I've timed 100's of these with no problems. I think the solution of this project is the dumpster for that block. Heads do appear to be the EJ22 heads (or at least the castings are similar)

I never seen one of these before in a Gen 1 Legacy. Im confused as all hell right now only thing I can figure is that its a JDM pullout engine. Someone used 2.2 timing gears, crank pulley and all that good stuff. the timing belt im assuming is of a 2.2 because no matter how you install it, one cam pulley is 1.5-2 teeth off even with the belt installed backwards pulleys rotated forward and backwards (spent bout 3 hrs trying to get it timed, even used newer gen 2.2 timing belts) What differed on the EJ20 and the EJ22?, so I can try to get this thing fixed and figured out. From what I've seen on alldata, EJ20's werent sold in a N/A application in the US. Its a used car that my boss took in on trade in so we dont know ANY history behind this. I just know in the hundreds of Gen 1 and 2 cars I've fixed I've never seen a N/A only on the early WRX's thanks in advance for everyone that chimes in. Boss is trying fire me because I'm the supposed sooby guru even though I've never seen the engine before lol

The torq specs on the EJ series motors end up slightly higher than EA series head specs. I always overtorq mine about 8 ft/lbs on my EA 82 and have had no problems. I also dont see a problem with the EJ series sequence and not re tightening them because step 2 and 3 seats and unseats the head to the gasket making the imprint and then backing it off simulating the re-torque. Also the EA-81s require retorq but I dont think the 82's ever called for it. I've done 100's of those motors without retorqing it

size wise for intakes, use a EA82 intake. You have to modify the side of the intake and or distrbutor housing to make it fit but the intake is slightly bigger and doesnt have as many vacumn doodads on it. After rebuilding a failed hitachi, I say stick with the hitachi for the cost. I posted up about running 36/32 and the 38DGAS, and if I was to run one it would be the 38DGAS because it uses the geared linkage for the secondary instead of a vacumn diaphram. 38 uses bigger jets but problem solved by jetting down a bit.

bead sealer FTW

I've got them to reset by disconncting both battery cables and then grounding them together with a pair of vice grips and let them sit for 5 minutes Also try starting the car and plugging both black and green connectors together let it run for a minute, shut car off unplug both connections. I Did this yesterday on a 1989 Legacy and it also works on my 1987 SPFI wagon.

I dont know if Young's Gear is nationwide, but they are the big driveshaft rebuilting place here in Alaska. They replaced the joints in my driveline for 45 bucks a joint (thats parts and labor) and its a greaseable u-joint. A lot more reliable than buying a used one that have joints that may go out in 500 miles.

I have 2 hella 500's with 130 watt bulbs on my roofrack and two light force 6 inch with 75 watt bulbs in them along with my stock head lights. 500 watt mono amp, 350 watt amp for the front speakers and my heater running on high constantly and I have had 0 problems with my 1984 Brat alternator. I say go for it

do your self a favor and get the Subaru O-rings. They are superior to replacment o-rings. I put napa o-rings in mine and have had then fail within 5k miles. Put OE o-rings in and have had NO problem what so ever

theres no need to weld anything on the seats. All you should have to do is drill a few holes and use Grade 10 bolts to bolt the stuff together. I've had modded seats in my wagon for 4 years now, never had a bolt come lose, and I've hit stuff hard enough to break the seat back lock.

Cylinder Head Gasket Replace One Bank 6.7 Notes Both Banks 10.2 Notes most shops are about 90 dollars an hr. so there is close to 1 grand just in labor resurfacing and testing the heads is around 200-250 dollars head gaskets - 80 dollars a piece head bolts -100.00 intake and exhaust - 30.00 spark plugs - 25.00 timing belt - 100.00 water pump - 80.00 Always have it replaced with head gaskets 1 hr labor so + 90.00 Flush - 200.00 Coolant - 40.00 Rear main seal - 25.00 Front Main - 18.00 Thermostat - 10.00 Valve Cover Gaskets - 20.00 Labor to do the intake and exhaust valve seals - 2 hrs (180.00) so said and done its probably around 2000-2200 dollars. I say go with the ones with 12k mile warranty. This is just a rough estimate Make sure when they are doing the test with the "little doodad" that they are doing a Block Test, and a cooling system Pressure test. These motors are known to leak coolant out of the headgaskets on the back of the block. The block test will test for exhaust fumes in the coolant. Make sure which ever company you have do the work is known for doing subaru work. It is an interference engine and if they mess up putting the timing belt on, You will be looking at replacing valves

LOL maybe you shouldnt be working on cars then. If u look at the chincy metal subaru uses on their seat rails, the metal you would be adding and modifying is thicker and stronger. Seats dont mean chit anyways. seat belts are what you should be worried about. Subaru seat backs snap and lay flat anyways in 90% of collisions

tore the top back off cleaned the passages installed a different top off another carb on it. Idles smooth as hell now, still drips a bit but runs 100% better

I cleaned out the vent tube on the primary venturi when I tore the top off. I didnt want to get too into tearing it down cuz it was on a sunday, had my kid at the shop with me. I will pull mine in the shop today and pull out the air bleeds and blow some air through them and clean the bleed jets.. see if that helps.. Kinda wondering if its my power valve not fucntioning properly is why its leaking? possible?

just got done with my 07 STI test drive. Car has had minor upgrades done to it. AEM cold air, and BOV (silly idiot that put that on it) OMFG I love that car. I am working out the financing on it right now with the used car place. I'm good friends with one of the salesman, so I've gotten more details about the car that most people do. 16k miles on it, 1 owner car the guy that had it was in his 50's he paid a performance shop to install the upgrades on it. The power that engine produces is unreal. I looked down at the speedo on the highway we were doing 90 mph felt like 45 mph in my lifted rig. We were on semi icy roads so I played with the diff control knob a bit. ran with most power to the rear at high speeds to test the stabilty under acceleration. Put diff lock on at a rolling 40 and punched it got it completely sideways around a hairpin corner.. I think I've found my ice racing car! Hopefully with my so so credit we can work out a deal. I have ppl to front me the down payment. I guess questions would be.. Insurance on a STI and ages of the driver/owners? I am 26 so I got the drop on insurance finally. My lifted wagon is 390 a year for just collision insurance. I figure full coverage on the STi is going to be about 120 a month.. Anyone else?

yah I will have to try the round ones tonite when I dig out the slow air bleed ^@$^ sucker.. I've driven this car for 12 years now, and its really starting to get to me. Other than the carb issues, I've had little problems with this car. If I had cash to toss around I'd get a new one, but yeah broke as a joke atm. stupid IRS.. LOL