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Primary and Secondary Venturi O-rings... I need some for my car.. Carb rebuild kit didnt come with them. The secondary venturi was a lil loose so I pulled out the venturi greased the o ring up and installed a new roll pin and it tightened up the gap. So yeah let me know if someones got the o-rings, or if regular round o rings will fit. I didnt size up round ones to see if they would make the oval or not cuz i was in a hurry

yah I was looking at changing that because its started to diesel now when its warm.. getting so tired of this car.. been nothing but a money pit the last 3 months.. thanks for the advice fellas

GD I'ma lower the float lvl some when I install the other top off my spare carb. I got the brass seat out with a blow torch lol. I did some fiddling around with the vac lines and vent crap and got it to run a lot better, but it wont idle unless the screw is ran into to about 1400 RPMS Getting tired of these carbs.. might just buy a SPFI wagon and put my list and mods on it

rebuild the top end of the carb this weekend, did the needle replacement, couldnt get the brass seat fitting out of the top of the carb though it seemed to be seized in there. Set float lvls according to rebuilt kit specs. I did leave the lil metal clip deal off the top of the seat because it interferes with the float movement, and I talked to chevy carb gurus about it and they said that piece is just in there to hold the needle in place until after float settings are made. Car runs like a raped ape now, but its still running rich at idle because of this fuel dripping problem. I gotta get this fixed cuz its killing mpg. Please post up. I am pulling the top off my spare carb and I am going to put in the vent tubes and the rest of the stuff into this one, see if this helps it at all.. Thanks in advance

Actually thats not true about subaru saying to not use new bolts. 2000+ must have new head bolts installed. Thats from teh dealer themselves up here. The parts manager told me that when I bought headgaskets

unless you got the car for really cheap, they arent worth converting over to 4wd anymore. You can go out and buy a 4wd wagon for 1000 bucks thats in nice shape. Do the swap if you have the parts car for free, but 2wd to 4wd is a PITA when there is thousands of 4wds already out there with 5 speeds that are probably in the same shape as the 2wd you are looking at buying

I'll second that. 10x1.25 on all subarus EA81 and up

You have a major vacumn Leak some where and the engine is trying to compensate for the leak EGR valve could be sticking, or the solenoid isnt functioning, holding the solenoid open.

you most likely dont need brackets. We put EA82 seats in my old brat and iirc all we had to do was add a piece of flat stock to each side and drill some holes. So if they fit a subaru they will work with min. fabrication

argggg time for me to do the conversion it looks like

ty for this info. Funny yesterday a friend asked me about making a more powerful ej22.. and I mentioned this but wasnt too sure cuz I hadnt heard about it in a long time. I think im going to track down the parts and start building one to put on my 86 lifted wagon

Yup dont bother with converting it. If you want a turbo buy a EJ22T thats already built.. Save yourself a lot of money, time, and PITA's

lol yah video wasnt much ac/dc ftw though

kelly I've found a fix for the preheater tube. Use a air cleaner assy from a 2.8L S-10 with a 38dgas on it. its got the tube and vacumn diaphram on it u just gotta spin the 180 degrees.. So I decided to tear into my carb today. Float bowl gasket was shot, float lvl was too high. primary venturi vent was plugged. Replaced needle valve on float bowl.. cleaned the primary venturi vent and the secondary vent tube. After carquest sold me a carb kit that was already opened and someone took pieces of out it and returned it to the store, I got lucky and napa had the right kit I needed in stock. Put her back together, left the little spring clip off of the needle valve because it really shouldnt be there because it stops the float from stopping the flow of fuel primary venturi STILL drips fuel.. WTF? Car does have more power with the top end rebuilt.. I did have a problem getting the brass deal that the needle vavle for the float sits in out. I couldnt get it to turn at all so I left the old one in there. anyone else got ideas on the venturi vent still dripping? oh and I decided to head test my engine today... bad head gaskets.. engine has NEVER been overheated... runs fine, no white smoke.. kinda wierd. :-\

yah post it up.. make sure to rev to at least 5k rpms though so I can hear the entire range

well since its straight through with 2 inch, buy a Thrush seam welded chamber muffler. Nice and quiet at idle and easy throttling, sounds angry when u stomp on it and down shift for engine breaking. I'd stay away from that exhaust valve thing, its going to be more problems than its worth :-\

I will vouch for the guys sayin get rid of the muffler. As long as you have the Cat and the resnator in place still they arent very loud at all. if you get rid of the cat and resnator it is VERY loud and annoying. You will get a ticket for excess noise. I straight straight piped mine, and got pulled over within 10 minutes. I say cut out the muffler and put a piece of pipe in there and ur good to go.

GD - Im familiar with using resistors to trick the ECU into thinking the part is still there and functioning.. had to do it a lot with 1990's chevy 6 cylinders and the knock sensors. Also can be used to bypass the VATS security system on older GM cars. As for the 02 controlling emissions I realize it isnt directly related to emisson control, but up here they test your vehicle at 2500 RPMS for 3 minutes for the IM test, and the O2 sensors do come into play for the high speed testing. Engines running lean (or o2s say it is) engine dumps more fuel causing higher emission output on the top end of the test. Have had many vehicles fail because of bad 02 sensors As for the everyone that chimed in, thank you you've pointed lots of useful information. I may just goto the junk yard and get a 32/36 and fab up and adapter plate for it and play around with it before I go out and buy a new one

reason why I suggested cat is 5th gear you are loading the hell out of these little engines and exhaust restriction will be felt more in 5th gear than in first gear because you arent getting revs up very fast. All though since his buddy mentioned about the losing speed in 5th on a hill.. LOL its a subaru they do that Timing being too advanced will cause it to lose power, but he should hear pinging if its up too high.

hehe thats what they made the hood for.. take a sharpie and draw the firing order on the under side. and the spare tire shelf is to put all your nuts/bolts on in order of how you took them off.

post is gone didnt look into the other thread too much, but if the Brat is in good shape without rust, T tops, seats push bar Yes it is a good deal. Up here guys pay 400 dollars for a set of the seats for their air boats because of the "oh poop" handles built into the seats I bought a 85 brat a few years ago for cheap and I sold it for 1500 bucks without a topper, push bar and it had dented chrome and tail gate I'd jump all over it if I were you. Rarer car now a days

that brat in the article.. OMFG! I love that paint job on it. I'm guessing that is a factory paint job that wasnt offered in the US? or was made in limited numbers? I havent ever seen one that color.. I want I want

compression is fine, checked it last tune up (10k miles ago) The engine is still strong only 100k miles on this engine problem with it is the primary drips fuel bad when it idles, so I lose a bunch of mileage that way. I've blasted out the air vent to the primary and stopped it from dripping for a little while, but the vent plugs back up and fuel starts dripping again. I can let my car idle all day at work and burn 1/3 tank of fuel. Granted my driving isnt that great for mpg either, but 3 years ago the car got 22 mpg with an engine with 300k miles on it Either way, on the early SPFI, I guess with the exhaust system tahts on my car now, I dont want cats which is why I built my exhaust myself. If I were to go to SPFI, how am I going to deal with out a cat and the 02 sensor? I've heard lots of stories bout ways to trick the ECU into thinking that the car is running emission wise like it would with a cat on it, but no ones ever been able to say, Yes that trick works. One of the ones I've been told the most, is put the O2 sensor back as far as you can so the exhaust gases have cooled and are supposedly cleaner? Dont make much sense to me, but yeah.. I guess if I was to goto FI, megasquirt with a central fuel injector would be the way to go? (bypass EGR valve also?)

Let me put it this way, I'm a mechanic. 95/100 cars that come in my shop with emission related problems or fuel mileage problems are fuel injected systems. the other 5/100 are carb'd. Reason why I'm asking about the webers is because I've never worked on one. Everything here in alaska is holley or edlebrock. Not because there isnt carbs left alive up here, but because they are a simple fix. rebuild the carb or buy a new one. You dont have an electrical system that goes nuts if a ground wire comes loose, or if a pin gets bent. you also dont lose cat converters because an o2 sensor died and told the engine to dump raw fuel into the engine, causing the cats to plug up solid. You dont have ECU problems because some idiot hooked up jumper cables backwards. You dont get a misfire on 3 cylinders because a coil pack is dying. No rev limiters, no fuel pumps that require the fuel tank to be dropped to replace it. I can go on and on all night pointing out the drawbacks to Fuel Injection compared to carbs. I really dont care bout mileage at all this hicrappy gets 15 mpg if I'm lucky. I figure if I'm going to spend 400 dollars on a new carb, why not move up in the world. Basically what I'm saying here is simplicity. Once a carb is jetted correctly (which I have someone who builds fuel systems for airplanes, jet boats, air boats etc is going to tune this carb for me if I go this route) you are done nothing else to go wrong with the fuel system other than fuel pump, filter or the carb. And the fact that I can carry a spare carb, fuel filter and pump with me when I am 100 miles away from a phone or people and knowing I can replace all of that in 30 minutes and be back on the road. Fuel injection, well I wont even get into the thousands of dollars of parts that could break and need a ODB scanner/computer to replace, adjust etc. Sorry to ramble about this, but I've gotten this whole "just go with fuel injection: from almost EVERY one I've asked about upgrading carbs. I might be young compared to a lot of the users on this board, but I still say 1980s technology is the best for offroading and fast, cheap fixes oh and GD, I have no problem working on FI systems. work on them every day, Easy to fix when you have someone else paying for the parts.

VLSD will fit but you have to do some grinding on the sides of the case to make it fit. The stub axles will not work as far as I know there isnt threads for the bolts. I'm running the c-clip stubs on mine with 5 inches of lift in the rear (angle wont snap axles but it pulls kinda hard on them) and I've never had a problem with them popping out.