torxxx

Yup get a VLSD in the mud and tell me how it works. I Love mine. Awesome for coming out of corners too on the ice track cuz it will lock up on exit instead of entrance. Leaves the car predictable into corners not wondering when the clutch type LSD is going to lock in.

yah I've been a fan of bigger is better so unless someone speaks up and says horrible things about the 38 DGAS I think I'm going to go with that one. I can always jet it down some if its getting too much fuel I wish the 32/36 had the gear drive linkage, I'd get that one in a heart beat. Fuel Injection, eh, just more to go wrong. I have several FI intakes and harness's in my shop but I really dont wanna get into wiring to a SPFI. If I am gonna deal with wiring I would do the 2.2 or 2.5L swap (have the adapter plate and harness for odb2 2.5 just need the flywheel/clutch) Either of you guys that posted know Jet sizes useD?

rear disc conversion and the mid grade pads should work just fine. I wouldnt spend any more money on "upgrading" the EA82 brakes unless you are going to put 5 lug setup on them. Cross drilled and all that, I wouldnt waste your money on it. If you are that into upgrades, go 5 lug I went with the rear discs on 26 inch rubber on 14 inch pugs and my car stops just fine. (lifted 4 inch front 5 rear, 200 lb speaker box, 3 toolboxes car weighs in at 3900 lbs) I kept the drum proportioning valve on it for ice racing because it helps the rear lock up slightly before the front. On dry pavement its VERY hard to lock up the brakes

Ever heard of marking the plug wires before taking them off? Just an idea to throw out there. They make small numbered stickers that will stick to damn near anything or any toolbox should have a paint marker it it. Yeah its disgusting to see a reference source with the wrong information. But thats why everyones dads always told them "Mark everything before you take it apart"

Cat is plugged up...

Just got done emailing back and forth with redline about gettin a 38dgas for my lifted wagon. I was tempted with the 32/36, but I like the gear drive linkage vs the standard linkage on the 32/36. After talking with Bud at Redline, I'm wondering how much they talk up their carbs. Granted yes it is a upgrade from a hicrappy carb, but some of the stuff he said seemed far fetched. This is from the e-mail "This package is exciting but I would sell this with the above comments then offer to work with you to deal with any issues that come up and I believe you will be absolutly surprised with the gains its like going to a 6 cy with out the engine swap over our progrressive carb package." Making a 4 cylinder seem like a 6 cylinder with just a carb swap doesnt seem right to me. Like I said it is a step up from hicrappy carbs, but honestly they cant make that much of a difference considering the displacement, and the small size of the ports on the head and on the intake. My exhaust is very free flowing (no cats 2 inch y'd together about 4 feet back going to a hi performance muffler) But other than that, I dont see where all this "magic" power is going to come from. MSD Ignition, 8mm wires the 14 dollar a piece iridium plugs, SPFI block with shaved heads. I plan on getting some cams done from Delta also. So yeah I will have small gains but 6 cylinder power? Maybe if its a 1.8L 6 cylinder. I also have access to a 2.7L kinda wondering if I should rebuild that and bolt the 38 DGAS to that instead. I'd like you guys input on this. Plz state engine (ohc/ohv) and carb sized and what you use the rig for. Also Jet sizes would be fantastic. I'm trying to run all numbers and senarios that I can to make this work just right. Thanks guys

alright we got a 2.8L S-10 truck in the shop today and the boss is taking it on on a trade-in towards another car.. anyways long story short, its got a weber on it. Looks similar to the ones that are being put on the soobys I looked around on it and these are the numbers I found 38DG0AS4A2 so I assume its a DG series carb. its got an electric choke on it. Is this going in the right direction for a sooby?

go buy a head tester from napa. they are like 35 bucks. easiest way to find a head gasket leak. you put the blue fluid in the test tube, stick it where the radiator cap goes, let it sit there for 15 minutes with the car running. if the fluid turns yellow u have a head gasket leak. if it turns green the dye got contaminated with antifreeze, lower the antifreeze lvl and test again. on the other hand I suggest radiator flow/water pump

answer is simple.. the transfer case is intergrated into the transmission. transaxle 2wd cars dont have a transfer case. k take a chevy or a ford transmission and bolt the t-case to it and try to pick it up. weighs more than a sooby tranny

wow no one has any ideas? the board is failing these days. a year ago there would have been 10 posts the first 15 minute.

I doubt you could because its a interfence engine, one valve is going to be open some where on teh engine You would have to pull the valve covers and make sure that all the valves were closed at the same time or u will smash one. maybe someone else on the board has done it but I havent

bump.... anyone??? I'll pay u in cheeseburgers for a good answer lol

I second new belts/seals. I almost promise its the front mail seal leaking. the ej motors were prone to that leaking. I've seen 2 oil pumps leak. check your pulleys and waterpump bearing too while you are in there. depending on teh mileage you are most likely better e off replacing everything on the front of the engine as preventative maintenance.

thats not true bout bending valves. I've had some belts snap where I swore up and down the valves were bent and they werent. Sometimes you will get lucky and they will just lightly get tagged, and u can put a new belt on and redline the hell out of it and they will work again. I'd put a new belt and pulley on and compression test it. If you got compression, you should be fine. Out of the prolly 80 or so engines with bent valves/broken t-belts I've dealt with I've never seen one jam the valve shut, they were always bent open so compression test should be more than enuff. good luck and if they are bent, I'd replace the valves themselves. 20 dollars a valve and some time relapping them and you are good to go.

I say do it. I've learned that u can put any year subaru seat in just about all subarus with a lil bit of modifying. Since they are both ej cars i think they will bolt right up. Do what ever is comfortable. my 86 wagon has 98 Outback heated leather seats in it cuz I couldnt deal with the crappy EA series seats. One problem I've noticed, no matter what the year of seat, I destroy the outer edge of the drivers seat. I dont know if the spring breaks and then the foam desinegrates or what, but it drives me up the wall. Left thigh is always sitting on metal after a year with the new seats

tryin to help my old boss out with a 04 Legacy that he has sold as soon as we get the tranny to shift to 4th gear. Got a Line pressure B code on it. I think the solenoid pooped itself and needs to be replaced, but he is hesistant to change it. Anyone else ran into any problems like this where u dont have 4th gear on a automatic? If so what was the solution to the problem? I know on Ford cars when you suddenly lose reverse or 4th gear its shift solenoid A that shorted out or stays open. Is this similar in import autos too? I tested the harness connector on top of the transmission and the red/yellow wire (supposedly the pressure soleniod wire) is very very dim with a test light, when the rest of the stuff lights up bright. Thanks in advance

I get between 10-50k between belts on my car. Keep in mind, my wagon is a brush basher running without timing belt covers and the car spends a lot of time in sand and silt. I've had belt failure to a bad pulley once and I've never seen a tensioner fail like this. it actually pulled the pulley off teh mounting ear that bolts to the block. Either way, 2 belts is FTW. blow off the passenger side belt, and keep drivin her home on 2 cylinders..

run both hoses up to a 4 way T. one goes to pcv valve on intake 2 go to the vent ports on the valve covers and throw on a oil air seperator filter on the 4th one cost of parts if u have to buy everything, 25 bucks..

buy a set of 90-94 legacy struts and use your top hats. 80-100 dollars a strut. Window problem in XT6's.. lol I had the same problem make sure the switch is getting power, and check the wires between the a pillar and the door they like to break there

that just makes it more fun when it happens at 70 mph. Play the try to keep the car on the road game.

flanges are different but I think the cups from our cars fit on the cage from the porsche axles. If I get some time tonite I'll search the board and find the link to it

wasnt someone sayings something bout porche axles? I thought they were similiar to ours, but they allowed a lot of travel..

there is a lot of hose there on the EA82 AC lines. the long line bolts to the spare tire shelf, all you'd have to do is make a cheap dropdown bracket for it. As for the other one goes I think it will be fine because you are lowering the engine and the condensor stays in the same spot so lengthing shouldnt be needed.

one of the nicest brats I've seen on the board. Makes me miss my 85.. shouldnt have ever sold that car.

I was looking at aftermarket wheels and price was the best feeling wheel I could find was off a 1998 legacy GT. We had one at the shop that had the air bags blown so it was a fast switch. the newest soobs dont use a tapered shaft like the EA82s do, but the simple fix for mine was a carbide grinder and I took off a little bit of the outer thread/spline. took a few tries to get it to fit right, but it still grabs 3/4 of the splines and the nut screws down tight. Been like that for 4 years now with no problems, wheel has never come loose or slipped.