torxxx

well this isnt the "correct" way to disable the lock, but it will do it permanantly. I dont like the idea of a wheel locking on any of my cars But long story short, open your door, place foot on bottom of wheel, grab the top and push way with your foot and pull with your arms. You'll hear and feel a good snap (lock is now broke)

check for the cam cases leaking oil on the outside of the exhaust pipes. They can be fixed in the car, but its ALOT easier to do outside the car. its not a major problem with these cars, they all leak oil from those o-rings once or twice in their life. wrong forum btw.. this belongs in old school forum

dont pull the radiator. take the cooling fans off, save yourself a few gallons of coolant. if its dual cam 2.5 before u take your old timing belt, take needle nose vicegrips to hold the pulleys in place since they are under spring pressure from the valve springs. If its a SOHC engine its almost identical to the 94 impreza belt you put on if its a DOHC you are going through the same motions, just with 2 more pulleys and a lil different marks. intake pulley marks point at 12 oclock, passenger exhaust pulley mark points at 9 oclock drivers side exhaust pulley mark points to 3 oclock. if u have them in the right spots, the double hash makes on each pulley will light up together as for taking the crank pulley off, of u have a strap wrench or a chain wrench u can hold the crank pulley with that

I think your problem goes a little more beyond a pcv valve. Check your cat see if its plugged up. when ur exhaust has no where to go, it will blow past your rings into the crank creating excessive blow by. Drill a hole in the pipe in front of the cat and take it for a spin. it will be loud but if the blow by stops, replace the cat

been over a month and a half with no response, so I redrilled my yota rims to 4 lug. lots easier and cheaper

Ej series all used the same bellhousings...

inline fuel pressure tester can say a million words..

yeah I've been wanting to find a aftermarket metric pressure sender for my lifted wagon too. lol been driving with out a gauge for over a year now. Problem getting them is where I live. Up here in the frigid north, the parts stores claim that subaru uses a metric thread instead of a pipe thread so tehy cant get me one. Figure I'd ask what the thread pitch is before I go screwing a aftermarket gauge into it

as far as the hlas go I've never had to replace one on any car I've worked on. That being EA82 engines. I've never torn into a xt6 so I dont know if they use the same hla. Another reason why I want to put a new oil pump in is because of low oil pressure

gary I'm talking bout welding the keyway back into the crank.... I'd never weld a pulley to a crankshaft... lol

not really just make sure some punk kid didnt own it.. Subaru 5 speeds under forced induction arent the greatest.. Make sure all the synchros work on the tranny first off. Lots of kiddies try to bang shift these cars at 6k rpms and the synchros wear out fast.. other than that, compression test it, make sure the rings arent smoked and pop off the inlet on the turbo and make sure theres no oil coating the turbine on the turbo.. other than that, have fun

they wont always set a cel because of failing sensor. a CEL comes on after 3 to 5 consecutive trips. Which means if the sensor iddnt short out on 2 of the 3 trips it wont set a code. Hard starting is a symptom of bad cam sensor. Grab one off a car in a JY.. Cam sensors fit in ur pocket.. just bring a 10 mm with u and tell them u are "looking" for parts

its not a bad knock sensor. if the connector fits, it will work. I've had this problem before after I replaced the knock sensor 3 times.. Flash the ecu and be dont with it

sko theres actually a guy from alaska (lives or used to live in the same town as me) thats rebuilt a 3.3l. Tycho.. might be worth emailing him. he stripped one down, ported it etc.. he'd be the guy to talk to about it. he knows those engines fairly well

use subaru OEM or have to replace the aftermarket ones in bout 5k miles...

that bearing actually isnt that spendy to replace. dont get a used one on these. bearing costs 45 bucks or something and get a machine shop to press the bearing in if u dont have access to a bearing. last one I did at work cost bout 125 bucks for everything to be done if u pull the knuckle off yourself

napa FTW 145 bucks on the last OBW cat I replaced. Direct fit replacement only thing I noticed that was different was the replacement had 2 O2 sensor holes but it comes with caps for the holes so u can block off the back hole on the cat. dont pay 2.5k for a cat when napa offers the same cat for a 1/20 of the price

135 ft lbs with a lil 271 lock tite on the threads you'll be fine

technically by ASE standards, any ecu thats replaced needs to be flashed. I dont care if its a subaru with the exact same serial number. its just like a computer, you dont upgrade your processor without a fresh windows install. flash can be easily done with a laptop and a serial cable with the software thats offered through the board. Ford, Chevy and dodge all require the ECU to be flashed, I dont see how subaru, mazda, mitsu, nissan etc are exempt from this. All computers hold memory from the previous installation

All wrong for EJ series motors.. take the top hose off the radiator, full the block full of coolant first. Then follow this procedure it fills the block first (takes out the huge air pocket u get by filling through the rad). When running to ge tthe t stat to open put a big funnel in the rad cap hole so the coolant sits higher than the heater core. do it this way, theres no need to let the car sit or any of that. (I work at a radiator shop.. pro at bleeding all cooling systems )

If u know someone that can tig weld, that keyway is fixable. I myself have welded a few EJ22 N/A motors back together like such. its kinda hard to do, but considering its a ODB 1 engine, the ecu controls the timing so a 1/8" isnt really going to make too much of a difference. I've also JB welded the keyways back into place when I didnt have access to a tig welder. it all comes down to how far it stripped the crank. A picture is worth a grand if u can get one for us

ok that answers my question bout the pump question #2 who's got a source for a new or reman'd oil pumps for the XT6. I wanna get this thing going for ice racing this winter (snow is about 2 weeks away, which gives me bout 45 days before ice racing season starts) also head gaskets would be FTW too if someones got a source for those. the napa and car quest up here "claim" they cant get them anymore.

why would you want to turbo a ea82 carb? buy a EA82T ffs. save yourself a lot of time and pain. First problem you are going to have with a turbo on a carb is detonation. Good luck running 6 psi on a 9:1 comp block Keep it carb'd, but a weber on it or megasquirt FI to be honest even the EA82T engines were not made for horsepower. its been tried here many times and they might run like a raped ape right off, but you are going to have a Very VERY short lifespan on your engine. If you are really stuck on a turbo get a EJ22T. Proven turbo engine.

well I have the chance to get a XT6 with blown head gaskets and a very ticky oil pump. so dumb question of the day... XT6 and EA82 use the same oil pump correct? I'm figuring it does because its just 1 1/2 EA82 engine blocks welded together

IIRC all 5 speeds have to have the cases split open. My buddy had that problem with the input seal leaking on a 91 legacy, and I could not find a way to get in there even with the plate removed because the seal sits back an inch or so