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good car for a younger person. if I had the money I'd be driving a STi not just the reg wrx too slow for me lol As long as she keeps an eye on timing belts, oil changes ever 3000 miles (turbo cooked oil arggggg.) and doesnt get speeding tickets she will be fine. as far as fords go, I've made a lot of money fixing them, but I will NEVER own a ford. Found on the road dead.. F'd over rebuilt dodge.

I have an 86 4wd.. so I can help a lil bit. the round connectors ARE NOT test connectors. EA cars use rectangle connectors for the test connectors and they are located next to the wiper motor on close to the drivers side strut tower. Fuel pump on all EA82 cars are located infront of the passenger rear tire underneath the car. Fuel pump is ran from a reference pulse from the coil Keep in mind EA82 carb coil wires are backwards. Black is positive yellow is negative. Haynes manual has decent wiring diagrams in the electrical section well worth 20 bucks

w000t another nice wagon I'm leaning more and more towards carb'd EJ22.. I dont have the time to have my car down for a few days while I do the wiring for fuel injection.

I love this car! I've been thinking about doing this iwth a 1998 Outback but I havent figured out what to do with power yet. Been eye balling a mid 70's celica rear end. Looks like with a little bit of fabbing it should work just fine. Looking forward to your write up!

I'm goin with spiffy.. I've had it happen to my car numerous times.. pry down the lil black door latch mechanism and it should pop up or down

turbo fuel tank.... You are gonna want a tank with baffles in it. your Carb'd EA82 tank doesnt have any baffles As far as the crossmember goes, heat it up with a rose bud torch and smash the hell out of it. its decent steel it will bend to make room

#1 on subaru unless its a RHD - Always cylinder farthest from the driver

if u are going to the junk yard to pull those parts, bring a 7/32" punch it fits the hole exactly. I've ran into problems with parts cars and the rust. I've had the 3/16 punch go into the inside of the roll pin and actually spread it open to where u couldnt get the pin out at all I second getting an entire control arm instead of trying to get a bearing out. I've changed my control arms in teh back 4 times on each side and never changed the bearing itself

Do it yourself. its a rope in windsheild they take about 20 min to install. Two things.. DO NOT use kerosene for lube. Use aerosol glass cleaner for the lube. Kerosene will eat the rubber on it and the molding is already 20+ years old. For the pinchwelds, they make a sealer thats used that kills the rust and covers the surface. Also buy a roll of butyl tape for the top sill and corners of the window. These windows were known to leak after installation and the solution was the use butyl tape. its self sticking (pretty cool stuff I use it to reseal my door seals) Start on the bottom of the window and work across bottom to both sides. make sure u get both bottom corners locked in before u move up the sides. You will finish the job at the top center of the window. Work your way around and slap the window every few inches with the palm of your hand. As long as your hand is flat, u wont crack the glass. I've installed over 600 windows so far in the last 10 years so if you have any problems pm me. I highly suggest u do it yourself and save yourself some money. Anyone can rope in these old windows. As far as the glue in windows, you can do that urself the hardest part is getting the old window out and cleaned up. Installation is the easy part. High density Urethane (sika-flex 220+)

definetly go with the d/r tranny. You may have some issues with the wiring connectors for the transmission. You will need the dual range center console and shift levers. You will want to use the crossmember from the D/R also. Drive line length may be different (most likely its the same size) One other thing u may run into is 25 spline front axles on the fulltime. Its been a few years since I pulled one of those and I think it was on a turbo turd but I cant really remember

10x1.25 if the holes in head are stripped go up to 7/16x16. no drilling involved just a lil tapping

With the AA 4 inch lift I had to add some stuff to the lift. I had to add a rear diff spacer to the front mount of the rear diff. I also had to extend my old steering shaft because they couldnt figure out what a Non power steering shaft looks like. One other problem I had was I had to wobble my front strut mount holes because the strut extentions were not welded in the right spot. You can tell they made a bunch of the kits fast before they went out of buisness All and all, I've had NO problems with the lift after the installatio. My car is driven every day and wheeled every night after work. I installed my kit with red lock tite and a rattle gun and nothings come lose yet been on there for 3 years now If I was to get another lift, I'd go SJR ftw because dealing with AA was a PITA. I got charged for a steering shaft for a power steering rig which I specified I had a non power steering unit many many times on the phone. I like the looks of the sjr lift alot better, stronger and keeps your control arms at better angles than the AA lift. My back tires rake forward an inch or two from center of the wheel wells. Good luck

I've always wondered the same thing, Supposedly there is evap system located in the passenger side of the rear of the car behind the wheel well on these. Do we really even need them or can we hook them up like an offroad rig with just fuel supply, return and vent coming off the tank to the fuel pump?

I just did a 800 mile round trip road trip with my lifted wagon.. averaged like 21 mpg but it got drove hard. 4th gear wide open the entire way. pulled rear cv's on the way back to see if mileage went up. Lol it actually went down because the rear end wasnt dragging ( bad watersoaked bearings), let me rev higher and go faster

I was just gonna say I'm positive thats a wheel bearing. You drive these cars long enough and u can diagnose the problem over the internet. The color of the grease on the DOJ shaft was a dead give away that bearing was bad. I use the red extreme pressure wheel bearing grease on my wheel bearings when ever it changes color its time for wheel bearings

Nice! Go back and check another set for me lol if they are kyb I'll take em

I've used any and all 5/8 inch spark plug sockets on the EJ22 without any problems the only one that I had problems with is the 2.5 DOHC because of where the spark plugs are u need a wobbly 5/8"

I've been looking at using 1970's Toyota 4 link rear suspension on my car. buddy has a few parts cars sittin there for me its just a matter of getting underneath it and taking some pictures. It'd make one hell of a RWD puddle jumper

yah I just resealed a EA81 a few weeks ago and I got a reseal kit from Carquest. Costs a lil more than napa but at least the parts are still offered

I'd get a EA81 or EA82 N/A and bolt a 3.8L buick regal supercharger to it... that'd be a blast on a trike

factory service manual FTW btw change out ur ignition switch. one or two tiny phillips head screws and a wiring connector should get u fixed up

I'd be down for a set of chevy/yota 6 lug redrills if you are making any of those adaptors up. Give me a price

take the head to a machine shop and pay them to do it unless u plan on doing it for a living.

when u say u flushed it did u use the prestone junk or did u use high pressure water? One other thing, do u have a laser temperature gun? I've learned to NEVER trust subaru gauges they never read right. According to my temp gauge, 3/4 temp is supposedly when my 185F thermostat opens, but when the car was 10 years younger same degree thermo opened at 1/2 temp..

I work at a radiator shop and we deal with this type of issue every day. You need a flush done the right way. Dont use that prestone flush junk. You need a flush gun. hooks to 5/8inch garden hose and has a fitting for a air hose to plug to it. Flush your heater core first (flush return hose first then inlet) flush your block both directions, get rid of the old radiator if its plastic/alum. If u have a copper/brass radiator, pull all fan off and the sensor and take it to a raidator shop or another shop that has a hot tank. (tank with caustic acid in it) have them boil out the radiator. That will take care of ANY deposits left in the radiator. my car was doing the same thing this winter (at -40F) I flushed the hell out of the system and replaced my radiator now it sits at 1/3 temp at 80F outside air temp. One other thing, check the thermo switch wiring on the raidator. I had an issue last year with the wires corroding and the switch not kicking the fan on in time.