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They should be more than strong enough. The EA82 hubs had a lot of metal to them if u compare them to newer cars like a Mitsu Lancer. I just did wheel bearings on one and I was amazed at how thin the metal was and the fact that the hub itself was half the size of a EA82.

if ur gonna buy that, make sure to get some piston return springs also.. 350 dollar car

light bar FTW Loyale bumpers are a joke. two tiny strips of metal top and bottom and then the very back mounting point of the bumper is mild steel. I've never liked bumper mounted lights because they will get destroyed. Get a cheapout bolt on light rack and throw em up there. u can run the wiring up next to the antenna unbolt the antenna mount slide the wires through and seal it up with some RTV or black snot in a can.

its washington cougar they dont have im laws like we do in alaska. I'd make the CEL functional and get the im done. no sense in droppin a new ecu into 92 loyale they arent worth the money to fix unless the body is in great condition. like I said it wont fix the problem, but it will allow your car to pass the visual inspection (key on cEL on engine start Cel off) if its a ground thats missing, splice that from the brake light out bulb to complete the circuit

check engine light fix... cut the power wire to the CEL and splice the power wire in from the brake light out bulb. This wont fix the problem but it will make the light go out. You should be able to IM it (remember this isnt fixing the problem, it just makes the light go on when u turn the key to on and go out when the car is running) As for the seat belt, goto a junkyard and buy a new auto seatbelt motor/rail they go out all the time on these. Drivers door gets opened 10+ times a day every day the motor gets quite the work out

One thing to check. I saw this on a 2004 Legacy 2.5 SOHC. Someone put valve cover gaskets on it and they lost a bolt from the valve covers and it was too long. The center bolt will run into the cam and press against it. believe it or not it locked the cam up to where I could turn it like a 1/8 turn each direction and it would stop Might be worth checking. As far as the belt being on wrong, could happen, they do have a few different marks on the pulleys. I put belts on a 03 WRX a few weeks back and the company they bought the engine from had put the belts on wrong and they tried to start it. Suprising enuff it didnt bend the valves. I tore off the old belt and put on a new one in the right spot and everything worked fine, no misfire or anything

check the wheel bearings on my EA82 wagon it makes all sorts of god awful noises when the wheel bearings are getting bad since its a brat u arent going to hear the howling noise like a back door on a wagon is open while u drive down the road. jack it up in the air and check for top and bottom movement by grabbin the top and bottom of the tire and shaking

lol hes the service writer where I work. he did this on his own time without asking the mechanics what to do lol. he had it coming. all 305's deserve to blow up anyways

got any other solutions to getting rid of carbon buildup other than water injection? I'd rather seafoam my engine spring and fall instead of spraying water into my intake. Seafoam isnt bad if u use it properly.

we bled the hell out of the brakes (I power bleed all brakes I do) tires are the same size, new pads and rotors etc. no leaks. its an offroad/daily driver I've had the car for 10 years now so I got driving it like that down. For me, as long as it stops thats fine with me. car dont go over 80 mph (carb'd ea82 with a lift and bigger tires) and if there is need for emergency stopping, thats what the lift is for. whip it off the road into the trees if neccisary

DO NOT pour an entire can in the intake. I've watched a buddy burn up a chevy 305 doing that. Use 1/3 of the can through a vacumn line if its FI engine or down the carb throat if carb'd. use the other 2/3 in the gas tank When u restart it after it chokes itself out, floor the pedal and crank away might take 10-15 seconds for it to start back up. Dont do this in ur garage the fumes will kill ya It should blue/white smoke for a few min but after that you'll be good to go

I have a similar problem with front lock up like that drivers side likes to lock up before the passenger side. Only thing that I can figure is the length of brake lines (farther distance to the passenger side) fluid takes the shortest path first and thats why they lock up like that? (my car was converted to 4 wheel discs and I kept the drum brake Proportioning valve because I like the way the rear locks up first on ice As far as the brake fade, how long are u pushing on the pedal? Keep in mind the brake setups on the GL series are VERY very underated Hill holder is not causing the problem, all that does is "dog" the fluid into the MC so it locks the front brakes when u use it My suggestion, drive faster and brake less

LMFAO sko. good one I've always wondered if they actually had a listing for that.. goes back to old highschool shop class joke

I'm goin with plugged up cats. I work at an exhuast shop and we've been seein a lot of the older subarus and even some of the newer ones with cats plugging up. easy way to test it, drill a hole in front of the cat and see if I get power back.

Get rid of it. I've been driving my 86 wagon for 5 years now without it (daily driver) with the 4 inch lift it still corners decent for a lifted wagon. Not to mention its got 20 year old struts on it

you say ea82s leak too much. as far as the exhaust, I spun my flanges 90 degrees and made my own gaskets out of diesel gasket manifold material and copper coated them and everything held up just fine I say stick with EA82s. much higher RPM engines. I was never impressed with the power EA81's made (owned 2 brats, sold them within the first 2 weeks of owning both of them)

not only is length a problem bearing size is slightly different. a friend of mine had me try to put one on his car because he insisted he bought the right axle. After pressing the axle through the wheel bearings and ruining the bearings he believed me that they will NOT interchange

wow serious overkill on the welds... u need about 1/4 of that welding. use nickel arc welding rod (strongest arc rod available they use if for welding anything with impurities in it) but yea, it should work

I'm amazed at how many users on this board replace the hla's.. There is nothing wrong with them 99% of the time your problem is at your oil pump. when this first came up about cleaning/rebuilding them I tried it and it didnt make a difference. Put a new oil pump on my car, problem solved. The mickey mouse seal leaks all the time on and there is a shaft seal that will leak too

yeah they will new years eve a few years back a friend had an emergency (wheel studs snapped 100 miles from town) at -45F I drove down and back on 3 cylinders. had to run it so hard I boiled alll the oil out of my engine. Didnt have any engine oil left over so we topped her off with ATF and ran it back 100 miles. Engine lasted 2 more weeks before front main bearing seized

alright thanks for the answer just what I needed to know SPFI tanks have the baffles in it also to limit fuel cut on cornering correct

ok well most of the older forum guys know bout my rig 86 lifted carb'd wagon punched a hole in my gas tank this weekend.. thank god for stuff called Seal All.. that and a piece of my pants sealed her up.. anyhow, I cant be doin road trips with it liek that so I'ma grab a SPFI tank and stuff it under there. I know I'ma have to use some fittings to make the hoses fit but my biggest question is with a carb'd engine that doesnt have to pass emissions, do I really need the evap jump? theres the 2 hoses coming off the passenger back side of the tank. Will it run if I cap those off and get rid of the evap system? I dont like havin those hoses exposed that close to the tires and I know with the older Chevy 350's we played with in highschool we'd use beer kegs for fuel tanks just fuel out, return and a vent.. So what do u all think.. do away with the evap crap? or do I need to keep it? mileage isnt an issue cuz the carb'd junk and I get bout 15 mpg anyways

Up here in Alaska they are considered a small truck. But you can sit in the back seats because they came factory like that, and they had seat belts. The laws are going to vary from each state, but I think in the end, you'll find that most places consider the brat a truck because of the lack of cab in the back.

The reasons why SPFI has higher timing is due the lack of vacumn advance on it. The ecu controls the timing to a point as far as at an idle and under heavy acceleration. Where as ur stock EA81 would vac advance the timing up to 20 degrees under accelration, the spfi distributor wasnt.

Yah but with the high dollar scanner, I can adjust shift patterns, check every single thing I can imagine on the engine. I'm just saying theres not reason why they couldnt have intergrated the abs and srs systems in to the ecu. Especially in a 2000+ car Now that I know where to look it'll make things alot easier. the guides that I found said it was on the side side of the steering column (wheres thes a bunch of unplugged pigtales) thanks for the advice