torxxx

hey good idea I never though of that. loosen the nut and RALLY!

I have thought about that before in the past. Using a slip yoke off a driveline. IIRC the rear diff they used in the old Nissan Z cars used a slip yoke of some form, might be a starting point. Or get ahold of RCV and get them to start making us some Subaru RCV's. They will run @ 45 degree angles and have a lifetime warranty, but then who would drop 2 grand on a set of CV axles?

Napa is starting to get a bad name. Their clutch kits have had the wrong pressure plates. I've had 2 of them now where I've had to warranty a clutch job because of the wrong pressure plate. Valeo had made the PP, Exedy disc and after fighting with napa to reimburse me, they admitted the kit was packaged wrong and paid me like a 1/4 of what I charged to install it The Exedy Kit I just put in my OB is already showing signs of slippage, so I'm leary of what brand to use. All though I got 10 years out of a EA-82 clutch, where as I've already did in a EJ clutch in 10k miles and this new one might see 5k miles. They lack the holding pressure running a AWD 5MT and 29"s. I'm ordering an Beck Arney for a 88 RX Coupe off amazon, looked around last night and the part #'s are the same for the EA82 and the ER27 If that clutch cant hold up, gonna have to go custom I guess?

Well lets just say I can barely move my upper half of my body. I shoveled for almost 3 hours straight last night. Stupid hardpack snow and snowmachine tracks/ruts. Buddy got some pictures, I made it farther than anyone else did in the past 3 months, made my turn around down the hill and found the deepest drift out there lol. It was waist deep in a few spots. Finally got close enough to my buddies to stretch out 200+ feet of chain and strap and held on for a fun ride. After walking my ruts we found out I drove over a pile of rocks that woulda tore the bottom of my car to shreds, guess thats the one good thing about the snow being as hard packed as it was, it let me slide over the top instead of plowing into it. Pics dont really do justice cuz I was standing on top of the hard pack, The snow packed under my front clip had almost turned to concrete by the time I got out of the car and started shoveling. Temp was 28F and starting to snow The bronco in the back of the first picture ended up blowing a motor where it sat, he sat there for 4 more hours after I got out

yah I might be able to cut one side off each cable bracket and roll that way, I just wonder if theres that much adjustment in the handle to take up that extra slack.. Guess I'm just gonna have to go for it and see what happens. Could always rig cables with loops to them both and hand then to the passenger and just yell "Pull Left or Pull Right" LOL

thx chux for getting back to me., Someone in a thread was sayin that the Gen 2 OB driveline was 2 inches longer, I dont mind making a custom carrier bearing bracket to offset the difference, I'd rather not have to getting into cutting drivelines. Its snowing right now otherwise I'd be out pulling the driveline out of my 2003 or the 2005 OB and checking lengths. I guess with the gear reduction with having 4 low the holding pressure prolly aint gonna make a difference. Higher RPMs with the AWD tranny is where I've had slipping. And thats with Everything stock on the 98 OB, just with 29" tires. I'm thinking about making my own X-member for the tranny just to gain a little bit of clearance. I remember the EA x-member sat up a bit higher because it wasnt that silly 2 piece crossmember. I was planning on using the rear mount to make a skid plate cover thingy around the back half the extension housing. Arrrggg. Subaru needs to get my SVX valve cover gaskets here faster so I can get that fixed and park the lifted one and get starting wrenching on it. Sucks tryin to work on your daily driver and still being able to drive it to work the next day lol And maybe I'll email Valeo again and see if they offer a higher clamping force pressure plate. Last time I dealt with them directly, I had a response within a few hours and they were on top of their stuff.

Just got back from my buddies fab shop and my fly wheel looks amazing. I had him make a template out of 1/2" steel and we bought the right size bits for his Mag drill. The jig bolts to the fly wheel via Pilot bearing and a bolt, so once its bolted down to the table there is very little chance of movement. I asked him now that we have everything built for the jig how long it would take to do start to finish. 20 minutes. So for the Alaskan's on the board that need flywheels redrilled, it can be done in Fairbanks now. He is going to be starting the adapter plate this weekend and hopefully after that I get can him on making up some shift linkage setups. 1. Ordering up a EA82 clutch this weekend, I'm still a little stumped on the pressure plate because I've heard that they dont actually make a XT6 PP anymore and its just a EA82 PP thrown into the XT6 clutch kit. Any truth behind this? 2. I'm going to run 23 spline 93 2wd Impreza axles for now, I dont really want to tear into a perfectly good D/R just to change stubs out. 3. 2003 5MT wagon driveline is the correct driveline for the swap? 4. Making tranny x-member. I was thinking of just cutting down the EA mount and rewelding the ends on to adapt to my EJ lift. Or is there an easier way? 5. Shift linkage - I gotta pull the linkage today when I get to the shop, wondering if the extra shifter will interfere with a possible dual ebrake setup for the rear? I think thats it for now, I gotta try and find a dry flat spot in my yard to get my car jacked up and get the AWD tranny out.. that should be fun considering we have snow in the forcast for the next week...

heat is your friend when removing ball joints. A lot of the older ones I dont touch without hitting them with Oxy/acel or MAP gas. You dont have to get them glowing red, just hot enough that it sucks the PB blaster into the recessed areas. I dont use a pickle fork normally. If you heat up the control arm where the balljoint taper is, a few swings with a BFH will usually pop the ball joint out. I do that step last. I remove the pinch bolt and take a prybar between the control arm and the spindle. if that doesnt work, hit the control arm with a dead blow hammer a few times. The only place you hit with a steel hammer is the ball joint housing, its the only thick metal on the control arm. the rest of the control arm is single/double layer metal, so a deadblow hammer works better (doesnt dent the metal) if the old rubber on the balljoint flames on, no worries its garbage anyways, just watch your direction of heat so you arent cooking the axle boot.

how hard is it to install the bushings Gary? I have a bearing guilotine for removing them, is it just a matter of greasing them and pressing them in? I'm looking for stiffer bushings for offroading, but I dont want ones that squeak, cant stand the hard poly ones makin that noise that they make

I searched and didnt find many results.... None to be exact. I know a few guys who have done it, but without having to read through 100 pages of threads I figured I'd just ask. I wanted to do a welded rear diff but for a daily driver I figure dual ebrake would be more justifiable. I got new cables off a 01 forester, extra e-brake handle. Mounting the handles doesnt look like an issue its just rigging each cable up indiviually thats getting me. The one thing stumping me right how to rig up the cables to each handle. Have people been using using to rig them up? Cable clamps to tie the two together? I thought about spinning the twin cable setup sideways and using the ends where the two cables were tied into one, but I think its going to lengthen the cable pull too much for it to work. Sorry bout rambling through this, if I could draw a picture it'd help lol

I messed around with the rear last night on my OB, ~2.5 inches of extra travel would be workable with the correct modifications to the trailing arms. Issue I ran into on the rear is the trailing arm hitting the front lateral link, limiting some of the downward movement you'd have on the high side (being the side with the shock fully extended) I still had some play in the axles, I grabbed the shaft and pulled in and out and it still had maybe a 1/2" of side to side movement, so limiting straps might be needed to keep the axles from yanking out of the diff. Other option would be STi rear axle shafts modified with early EJ roll pin axles. that would eliminate the chance of an axle popping out of the diff. Fronts, I'm leaning towards Subafreaks idea of SVX axles/spindle with the SVX control arm end welded onto the EJ control arm. and then that would lead to a hybrid hydraulic steering setup with some form of inner tierod to take up the up and town travel of the tierod shaft. ffs ideas ideas ideas... I just need a shop where I can park something on stands for a month so I can start fabbing

I'd say they are, but they arent. They still attach the original way. I dont see where he modified breaking, just the typical rip the strut out of the top hat issue. I wish I could get myself a few sets of STi struts. My OB needs them, my SVX needs them

I've been thinking about getting away from Struts completely and running coil-overs like the rock buggies do. they make a 12 inch version similar to the fox shocks. It would work good I think having 2 stage springs and being able to control compression and rebound. I was figuring running ~8 inches of travel and having the other 4 inches bump stopped (basically the shocks would be running 1/4 compressed sitting normal. I like the angle you've got on your front CV's, I wonder if EJ axles will run at that same angle. If I so I got at least 2 to 3 inches of suspension gain available on my OB

change the fuel filter? verify you are getting the correct PSI at the intake?

broken clutch basket. seen it on a few of the early 4EAT trannys

and yes gloyale the JDM tranny varied between the 1.1:1 and the 1:1. it was year specific from what I've researched. 02-05 only JDM had 1:1:1 or something like that. rest of them were 1:1

as long as you run open thermostat, I dont see it being a major issue, the idea is no coolant sitting still more than anything

not sure about in a GL... I know the rock bouncers build their coolant lines smaller, so it increases pressure. They run 1" stainless line to capped into the tubing of the buggy and then back to the radiator. Demo derby cars we just put them in the back and ran marine wet exhaust hose back to the radiator and ran open thermostat. Engine was wide open all the time, but with 2 electrics fans on the radiator it kept the engine ~175F

in the end: 95 Lego Wagon EG33 4EAT 4.44 with center diff control - goin automatic since Line pressure building is less stress than dumping the clutch Welded rear diff 6 inch lift 1.5" spacers offset 15 inch wheels and 31x8,5x15 TSL's 2003-06 Forester struts + King springs if I had the $ to build another

now now girls.....

find a 98 EJ25D cat. Mine had 2 cats, but both sensors were in the front cat. Runs fine, no CEL Normally the O2 sensor would be back behind the tranny. I've ran mine for 12k miles so far and have never popped a CEL. No heat shields on any of my exhaust either, and everyone said that would cause a Cat converter code...

loyale wasnt awd. it was push button 50/50 unless it was an automatic tranny. The legacy makes 40 more hp than the loyale, but the 5 speed uses a viscous coupler for the all wheel drive. I have both cars and I offroad both of them and I prefer the 50/50 4wd over the all wheel any day of the week. If you get the loyale, it'd be worth spending the money to buy a 5 speed dual range tranny (hi and lo 4wd). Trying to wheel with the legacy not having the dual range limits what tires to you turn. I have 29"s on my Outback and I've killed one 5 speed already by stripping the reverse gear off the main shaft. Happened 100% due to the fact that I didnt have low range. If its an automatic, they can be hacked so they run 50/50 front and rear just like the loyale 5 speed and the legacy 5 speed when the coupler is locked up. I'm starting to lean towards putting a 4.44 ratio tranny in my Outback just because of the fact that line pressure building is less stressful on the drive train vs side stepping the clutch. How big of lift/tires are you thinking?. EJ suspension is superior to EA suspension but the EA body imo is a stronger body. I've beat on my 86 GL wagon for 14 years and its still alive. half those years have been lifted and it was ran as a daily driver up until last year when I welded the rear diff. The ideal car would be a legacy with a dual range tranny in it. That way you are getting the best of both cars. EJ suspension and power and then the lower gearing to help turn bigger tires. Not to mention having optional 2wd is nice

I ended up reinforcing my radius rods on my 86 wagon with angle iron. I welded it on top and bottom to where it actually makes a box around the radius rod. Had held up a lot better than just the stock setup. As far as the control arm bending, I never did do anything about that, I just swapped them out with other used ones. I didnt really want to put a lot of heat to the metal since there isnt a lot there.

Can you post what the tranny number is? I've looked over the 5MT chart and they didnt make many of the JDM 5MT turbo trannys as 4.11 FD. They mostly came on the 93-96 JDM WRX and then some of the 5 door 97-00 WRX. Majority of the newer ones are 4.44

dont have any good pics of mine, but mine ends up being a 6 inch SJR lift, 235/75/15 tires, 1.5" spacers stock 15" rims, they only rub on full lock and max compression Ordering 29x8.5x15 Swampers here this week. Going to be adding 2-2.5" of lift to the rear and another half inch or so up front. Trying to get the car to sit level with my big speaker box in the back lol