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hell yea dave. looks sweet! I wonder if they make those in a anodized blue?!?!

the reason why I said what I did, I work at a auto body shop. we fixed wrecked soobys. I've seen two or three taht actually twisted the control arm with the radius rod. most of them were just a bent strut and a bent radius rod. Either way, both components are the weak link in the IFS on a subaru. I say they need double wishbone IFS, that way there is no need for radius rods. Hell for double wishbone, ball joints would be more spendy, but the ride would be AWESOME

I wouldnt even go that serious on the rear diff hanger drop down. I used 1 3/4 inch square tubing, drilled holes in it. took about 10 min to fab up and 10 min to install. 15,000 miles on it and have had no problems

I have never actually bent a radius rod. I do carry 2 spares in the back of my wagon just in case. Personally, I wouldnt make them any stronger or stiffer than the stock setup is. The reason subaru made them that way, they are a crumple zone if you hit anything. The radius rod is the first thing to bend, and the control arm twisting is the second thing to bend. I would much rather change a radius rod than change a control arm. It takes all of 5 minutes to change out the radius rods. Keep a 17mm gear wrench, 17 mm deep well socket and a pair of vice grips in your tool box and carry 2 radius rods and you'll be set

weld on a piece of square tubing to the back of the skid plate. Off set it a little bit to accomdate the new lift angles

bad turbone... you used the g word... LMAO.. funny hearin that from someone old enough to be my father..

I agree with shawn. The old soobies can take a pounding compared to the new plastic cars.

goddamn distys... I've had 4 of them come into my shop in the last month for that. Now thats the first thing I check when a car comes into the shop

The driveshaft should work. EA82 seemed to keep DS length pretty close. Automatic DS are supposed to be a lil longer or shorter, but IIRC I've used one before. just make sure it fits up in there.

If the engine has more than 150,000 miles on it, buy a new oil pump. You wont have to worry about TOD for the rest of the life of the engine

heh, well the guy that welded mine up used 5 rods arc welding... arc seems to get A LOT hotter than mig welding. Granted he did use a lot of rod, but anyways, new seals are always a good idea.

No it wont flame up if you clean the inside of the case. I used brake clean to get the oil out of the case and then pressure washed the inside of the case just to make sure the brake clean got rinsed out. One thing people need to realize, have a set of rear diff seals to install after you weld it up. All that heat will melt the rubber on the seals and you'll be pissin gear oil out. Now that its snowing up here, I need to get my welded diff installed on my car. heh, had it welded for over a month and have been too lazy to bolt it up...

I wouldnt rule out it being totally shot. Pour Marvels Mystery oil down the spark plug holes, to fill the entire engine and cylinders up with diesel and let it sit for a week. Might unsieze itself. I've seen it done before

yes, auto starters are geared higher. I just put a starter in out of a 3AT.. That thing really winds up compared to my gear reduced starter. I think a legacy starter will work in a EA series car also. Sizes are a lil different, but I think I've swapped one before

I'm going with strut rod bushings or the bolts on the strut rod that attaches to the control arm. I chased a clunk for almost a year and never thought to check the front strut rod bolts.. Changed my bushings and found out one bolt had about a 1/8 inch of play in it. it made one hell of a clunk

heres a better idea.. sell the outback and buy the right car.

as for adding a turbo to a N/A motor, waste of time. the heads have oil and coolant ports built into the heads. Not to mention the pistons in the block and the dome of the heads are set for a lower compression. Turbo engines run 7.5 to 8:1 compression, where as a N/A (Naturally Aspirated) run 9:1 to 11:1 compression. You could use a high compression block with a turbo, but right there you've just lost reliability. Yes you can put a turbo engine in your outback, but you are gonna be looking at swapping wiring harnesses. As for baja 210hp vs legacy 250 hp, you are looking at different spec engines, ecu and all that. the baja is most likely detuned some because of the lack of weigh in the rear.. turbo forresters are putting out 230+ hp and can be easily made into over 250 with just flashing the ecu The baja has stiffer suspension because its lacking a buttload of weight over the rear end. Subaru has made their cars heavier and heavier over the years. You want more power, go for the EZ30 (6 cylinder) or get a WRX wagon

I've only checked my lift bolts twice in 10,000 miles. None were loose. I'm guessing I overtighten bolts when I installed the lift, or the rust is holding the bolts inplace.. lol

I ran my wires out between the antenna and the a pillar. I used romex house wiring because the stuff is really stiff and pretty strong since its solid strand wire. I used great stuff to seal the gap and just cranked the nuts down on the as tight as they'd go. I'm not down with drilling a hole in the roof.. soaking wet headliners SUCK!!! Kelly is right though. They make a few different colors of it. Just becareful that stuff is sticky as hell and it WILL make a big mess.

I work at a windshield place and I've found 90-94 legacies all use the same window. I dont have the # right off hand, but I know 90-94 are all the same. Dont mess with getting one from a JY. 90% of the time, they will crack them cutting the windshield out of a parts car. You should be able to goto a Windshield wholesaler shop and get a new one with a top molding for like 125 bucks. Make sure you get two tubes of Sikaflex 220 or Sikaflex Cooltack urethane.

They make stuff called Valve tech (not sure on the spelling) but its like 7 bucks a bottle, the stuff treats 150 gallons out of a pint can, so I think that'd be cheaper than buying premium fuel. We use valve tech in marine applications on GM 496 engines because they require 92 octane+ fuel and we can only get 87 at the pump.

EGR pipes are on the left (drivers side of the engine) an 95 and up EJ22 arent they? I'm replacing the right (passenger side) of the engine, so hopefully I wont have to worry about that. I also have a EJ20 block with good heads on it. It isnt marked as a low compression block like the ej22t has on the coolant port. I'm kinda thinking of using a ej22 intake on the ej20 motor and running that with the 95 OBD2 system. I'm gonna check them out tommorow and compare the heads

damn that project makes me thing EZ30 in my lifted wagon. I found one at a JY wtih shattered drivers side timing chain covers... simple fix as long as it didnt bent valves.... Car looks wicked, I wanna drive it

hey guys I'm about to do the EJ22 swap into my EA82 series car. Problem is the engine I have is out of a wrecked impreza sedan and the frame rail was smashed into the valve cover on the passenger side. After bending the frame outta the way, I noticed it knocked the insert out of the head for the middle valve cover bolt. The engine is still intact and I'm figuring I will just swap the head on that side. Problem is car is a 95 2.2L ODB2 engine. My question is will a head off a 90-94 EJ22 work on the 95+ engines? From the last one I did head gaskets on, I think they are the same, but I just wanted to make sure before I tore down an engine to rebuild the 95. Thanks in advance

suprise suprise... it is ODB2. I got all of the harness pulled today, and sure enough, theres a odb2 scanner plug in in the harness. the old owner must have pulled that part out of the dash with the lil access door. All I could find was the male connector. Double checked it with my code reader. the ODB2 scanner fit onto the connector