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It will be running the dual range tranny. 95 is ODB I not II, so it shouldnt only have 1 o2 sensor. The reason why I say this is because there is NO ODB-II plug in ANY where in the dash. The car doesnt have to pass emissions tests. A turbo fuel pump will be going in the car and I will be running a new wire from the FP relay to the pump (carb'd car, so only 2 wire fuel pump, no relay). That puts out up to 45 PSI doesnt it? BTW, manufacturing date on the car is 10/94 so I'm pretty sure its still ODBI unless subaru did something weird and made it so you can't scan the ecu with a scanner. If it is ODB2 I might just use a 90-94 intake setup and ECU. that would still be do-able wouldnt it?

Got most of the wiring harness pulled today at work. Figured before I went any farther I'd ask.. How much more of a PITA is it gonna be wiring up the 95 impreza 2.2 into my EA82 wagon? So far, the only things I see different is ALOT simpler wiring than the harness of a 92 (which I've already pulled) There is alot more wire lengths because of where the ECU is located (under passenger feet) but other than that, I like that the harness plugs together where it comes through the side of the car The engines got 87,000 miles on it, so I'd rather go with that than a 150k+ 90-94 engine. I think I'm going to leave the wire harness intact and just stuff it in a rubbermaid tote and urethane it shut and stuff it on the spare tire shelf. Someone who's done the swap wanna list off the wires I will need to run to my EA82 carb'd harness?

exactly how much bigger do the EA82 flywheel holes need to be? I'm thinking if someone has a drill bit size, that might make it a little easier than using a grinding bit I too will be doing the conversion in the near near future. got my adapter plate, got my EJ22 with 80,000 miles on it (out of a 94 Impreza sedan). I got my wiring harness out of a 92 Legacy wagon MT, but I think I will use the impreza harness since its newer and the car has less miles and NO rust.

driving on ice and snow.. keep the pedal on the floor, and keep the car sideways.... easiest way to drive.. but yea, I'd say 3rd gear. 2800 rpm, you dont have much engine rpm, going to 3rd is gonna bring it down to 2250 or so, should be enough to grab.

I'm going with something is telling the injectors to NOT spit fuel. Cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor? check the wires behind the intake and make sure they are plugged in to the wiring harness.

one more for hose clamps. just use a socket to fit the end of the clamp to make sure its extra tight. using a screw driver wont get it right enough

they make brass wire wheels that work just fine. the brass is softer than the steel wire wheels. I use my 18v dewalt on highspeed and havent had any problems. Hell I took off an old head gasket before and it didnt hurt the head so I say go to town with the wire wheel

WOW!!! That is one nice RX. I think I'm in love. makes me really wish I woulda kept my rx coupe..

As far as I know, those numbers dont mean jack. You can see that you used to have the sticker on the rear diff. Do a search, there is a post floating around that I started about rear end ratios on Legacys. They use a 3.9 and a 4.11. I think 89-91 were 4.11 and 92-94 are 3.9. I can't remember off the top of my head, I'm used to lookin at the serial # on the tranny and I use that to tell myself what rear diff to use

is the axle FUBAR? if so, put a pipe wrench on the axle shaft. Rotate the wheel until the pipewrench comes tight against the body, control arm etc.

You could put a 1.8L 4 cylinder in it, but you are going to be looking at a lot of work. Personally, I'd get rid of the justy and buy a 88/89 Hatchback. Its just a little bigger than the justy and you'll get the 1.8L OHV 4 cylinder with a lot more reliable transmission and body

Well, I'm gonna be the one guy that says go for stiffer springs. I'm runnin 89 Honda accord 5 speed W/O AC front springs in the rear with my AA lift. I did change out the 4 inch strut spacer to a 3 inch spacer and still retained a higher lift that without the accord springs. I love the way the rear suspension handles. The rear tires stay on the ground, all the time. With VLSD I have no problem ever with traction in the rear. As soon as I find a spring suitable for the front, I plan on taking off an inch on the front strut spacers and adding 1.5 inches in springs. The way I see it, If I can keep all 4 tires on the ground, articulation doesnt mean crap.

I personally wouldnt ever offroad a forrester. Standard in the us is a auto tranny.. problem #1 problem #2 is the height of them. If I lifted a forrester as high as my GL wagon I'd be lookin at serious rollover issues. Problem #3 Cost.. why pay 10 grand for a car with an auto in it, and then more money to lift it. Not to mention you'd be running a interference engine. When I snap a timing belt, its nice to know I can put one on in 10 minutes and it will run. 2.5L blows a belt, plan on pullin the heads and puttin new valves in.

a 12 point 8 mm socket will work also.. maybe save ya some money

with a subaru, it will live as long as it has oil pressure and it raises when you hit the gas as for the fan/thermostat. the fan turning on has nothing to do with the temp thermostat you have. the thermoswitch on the fan turns it on @ around 185 F

I will second the Phantom tears up diffs. I too have been told horror stories about them. I have VLSD in my lifted wagon and I love it in the mud. Its a blast. For ice racing, the VLSD seems to kick in a lil too late.. I will be converting to a spring/clutch type LSD in a few weeks and then probably a welded rear diff. just stay away from phantom

yea I figured that a splash shield was going to be the only way about it. I wonder if the alternator will still work when its dried out. Hate to see it go, I got that alternator from Northguy when I broke down in his neck of the woods

I have those same hella lights but they are up high on my roof rack. they are brighter than hell. The only drawback to lightforce lighths is the price. you can buy 8 hella 500 lights for the price of 2 6 inch Lightforce lights

yes like the guy above me said, the 2wd drive fuse, just activated a switch at the center diff that unlocks the rear clutch discs. The driveline and the axles will still be turning, and because its a EJ series car, you can't pull out your rear axles. The only way you are going to keep the spindle in the back of the tranny is to zip tie or wire it in place. I've actually done this and drove for 3 months. The only thing that worried me was if my dual ranger shifter got knocked into the 4wd and I didnt notice, that spindle breaks the wire and falls out, oil leaks out then you have to worry about a blown tranny... Easiest way to save MPG is change your driving habit. Dont rev past 3k rpms, keep the weight down, keep the paint clean (dirt creates a small amount of drag) run a higher PSI in your tires, change fuel filter/air filter every 3 months Like 91 loyale said, the automatic adds weight. about 80 to 90 pounds of weight....

So I went out tonite and a sort of 4x4 date with this girl I met. Lesson #1.. shes not my kind of girl, if she has to close her eyes when I do a hill climb. Lesson #2, its just a body lift on my car. Found a big rut filled with water, didnt want to slam into the ruts, so I put my drivers side tire into the rut and kept the passenger side tire on dry land. Forgetting the ruts were made by a buddy of mine with 35 inch tires, I swamped my alternator. Made it out of the hole, dummy lights lit up the dash. Drove another 150 feet down the trail to find a good dry spot to swap alternators. So I have a dumb question to ask, that I think I know the answer to, but I'ma ask anyways.. Is there any way to waterproof my alternator??? I'm going to go through and silcone my disty cap on, dielectric grease all connections, but that still leaves me with the alternator as a issue to water... Hit me up, lemme know what you guys think.

hehe, yea it was loud and scary. shook the whole shop. my boss thought I dropped a car on myself.. I've had one other part of a subaru fall before.. 90 Loyale... puttin the engine in and the front lifting Eye off the powersteering pump/alternator backet snapped... dropped that engine about 3 feet.. didnt even dent the pan.. just about crapped myself though

well I got my tranny swap done finally.. hehe, learned my lesson about using lifting straps that are laying around the shop.. DONT USE EM. Had my tranny 4 feet in the air, just about to clear my core support and hood latch. Boom strap snaps, dropped the tranny. It fell clean through the core support and engine x-member.. didnt touch a thing. Good thing it was a bad tranny cuz it cracked the tail shaft. Got the new tranny in, engine bolted up. Last thing was bolt up the exhaust... One of the studs had come out earlier and I guess it took all the threads with it. Scrambled to fine a tap, got it tapped out to one of the bolts that holds the automatic seatbelts in place. extra fine thread, figured that was the way to go. Now I have a 750 mile roundtrip drive coming up on sunday. Hope everything holds up. I gotta say, its 10x easier to work on a lifted rig. Had no problems wrestling the tranny out by myself. That extra 6 inches is nice. Now for tommorow, axles and balljoints.. Wish me luck

DO NOT BUY CARQUEST BALLJOINTS. They are very very cheap, you have to put the boots on them, they are usually always too big (have to file down the sides a lil bit) If you want a good balljoint, get Napa Premium. They might cost more, but they use a Nyloc nut on the bottom so you dont need a cotter pin and they are lifetime warrantied so just keep the receipt.

another easy repair on the rack boots is use a dirt bike innertube. its strechy enough that all you need to do is unbolt the tierod from the knuckle assembly and slide it over. secure with a new zip ties or hose clamps

that sensor is right next to the thermostat IIRC. Shouldnt be any problems getting to it. If you arent getting continuity at the wires, I'd check the wire. Subaru uses a really crappy setup on the intake wiring. They get hot and brittle, crack and corrode. I think the sensor is a 17mm head... or a 14mm one of the two