torxxx

heh, I'm pretty sure I could snap those

you said your camber was messed up on one side. I'd look at your struts. sounds like you may have bent a strut or a strut tower. I say this because these types of subarus dont have adjustable camber on them, unless you have the adjustable shocks and the bad side was cranked all the way up and the other side was left stock. Even with adjustable shocks your camber shouldnt be that far off. As for checking the leading rod, jack the front off the ground and shake the tire front to back an check for movement. it shouldnt move at all. All subarus tend to wear out the outer edge of the tires first due to IFS. Just like the Ford twin traction beam front suspension.

yeah I have 4 inches+ the accord front spring conversion in the back so I'm guessing 6 or 6 1/2 inches of stress on the rear axles. I think EA82 rear diff is going back in it. I'd rather shred axles then pull stub shafts out.

If you are lifting it, dont bother with turbo trannys. You want a Dual Range 3.9 ratio 5 speed. Then if you want LSD for the rear convert over a 3.9 rear end to LSD The 4 lo in Non-turbo cars is a LOT lower gearing than a turbo. And the center diff lock/AWD that comes with turbo tranny? why would you want it when you could have controllable 2wd 4hi and 4lo from a D/R Non-turbo

bad balljoints will cause that to happen

anyone had a problem with pulling the stub shafts out of the rear diff? I got a 91 legacy turbo ss VLSD rear diff in my lifted rig. Heh, instead of snapping axles, it just pulls the damn stub shaft out. Any solutions to this? or is it time to go back to 3.9 open rear diff with bolt in stub shafts? I have a 3.7 LSD unit I wonder if it will bolt up in the VLSD case a lil easier than the 3.7 to 3.9 EA conversion. Time for more drop down brackets in the back. I'ma do 2 inch spacer at the mustache bar and see if that helps and then maybe the 3 inch rear xmember drop from SJR

Nice brat Nicky. How thick did you put the herculiner? I really need to get down to the states and buy a brat and dump some money into it. And NOT take it offroading..

timing marks on the covers line up with the seam at the out cam cover. 12 oclock position. its the same on both sides. Firing order is 1 3 2 4. at your disty #1 is the one closest to the brakebooster and rotation on the disty from there is counter clockwise for the firing order.

40 mpg.... never happen in my car. well maybe if i drove it like a grandma, but what fun is that. :burnout:

Dont use ultra grey. I've had all the "ultra" colors leak. The stuff to use is the black can of Great Stuff. its resistant to ATF, coolant and oil so it will work just about anywhere on these cars. it comes in a can like easy cheese so all you have to do is press the trigger and it comes out.

yeah i see what you are saying there. Soob fuel pump is just a rubber impeller isnt it? no diaphram or anything?

yes doing a tranny swap would be easier, but a 4 speed in my 86 wagon would be horrible. I can't stand the gearing with a EA81 behind it can't imagine what it'd be like with a EA82 with about 800 extra pounds of weight in the car As for the fuel pressure regulator, it wouldnt blow the pump up having it restricted? Also how is it going to work with the fuel pump relay that fuel injected engines have?

thanks matt, but I wouldnt take a 4 speed if someone paid me to take it away

from the EA81 and EA82 engines I've worked on about 50% of them didnt have the roll pin in the pulley. My 86 wagon never had one (only person to every take the pulley off) That crank bolt is supposed to be torq'd to like 100 ft/lbs.. use a lil loctite and that bolt isnt gonna back out

EA81 is a push rod engine so there are no timing belts

As for keeping it turbo'd right now, I'd rather not. Due the fact that I dont really know where the antifreeze is coming from. I'm thinking cracked housing on the inlet side of the turbo but I dont have the resources to rip one apart and rebuild it if its not cracked. I do have spare turbos so maybe I will swap one of them out. Another reason for making the RX N/A is for reliability. I've already dumped a few hundred bucks in parts on this engine (rebuilding it once. heads were fine everything looked good) I figure its not costing me anything to put the entire carb'd engine/intake in there other than a few hose clamps and a spool of wire. hehe old carby will still get my lifted wagon up to uncomfortable speeds. I miss being low to the ground. Especially with FT4WD

from what I'm told the gearing would be fubar with my lift and bigger tires. The 4lo in a turbo tranny isnt low enough

So my EA82T in my 88 RX coupe is pissing me off. I'm still waiting on my leakdown tester from snap-on to come in and I need to get across alaska here in the next month. I'm thinking of pulling my carb'd EA82 out of my lifted wagon and dumping it in the RX for a few weeks. Lifted Wagon has a bad main bearing in the tranny. ticked all winter, now its ticking like mad and is starting to squeal. Other than adding the Y pipe, and swapping the fuel pumps and adapting the fuel line what am I forgetting? As for the wiring harness carb'ds got like 13 or 14 wires in the main bundle to the engine correct? i should be able to splice in the wires to make it run? MilesFox I know you've done this conversion once in your life at least. Chime in plz.

that dent in the right front fender would be a waste of your time fixing due to the fact that its a sooby. Get one same color from a junkyard because the amount of time and bondo that would go into fixing that dent isnt really worth it when you can go buy a 20 dollar fender

my 86 has always done that. I've replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel pilot bearing throwout bearing all with new parts and it still does it. I think its a symptom of wear on the transmission. Now my main bearing is going out. Lol guess I was too hard on her

well if you have a shop do it, we charge 375 (parts and labor) to do a clutch job, so I wouldnt pay much more than that

have 2 inch straight pipe ran for exhaust, gut the cats, rip all the emissions crap off it. gap plugs a .48, use a MSD blaster coil. get rid of the stock airbox. block off the egr valve. They can actually be fun cars for rallyin around town in if you get rid of all the "extras"

So thats what that smell was that I get in my car? I could randomly smell exhaust or a smell from internal combustion. Thought it was the oil leakin on my cat...

the only lovin a tree needs is the love from the bottom of my sooby when I'm running it over....

Sorry guys, no pics. I used the block off plate to get rid of that anti after burn whatever its called junk. After more playin around with the car, its UNREAL how much more power and how much smoother it accelerates. Makes me think what else I can take off my carb'd engine thats not already blocked off or removed. ASV is blocked, EGR is blocked, Antibackfire is removed, all vac lines are removed, gutted cats and it runs cleaner than any car with the IM crap on it. I'm going to go visit the IM station and see if it will pass with everythign stripped. We have a visual test that you must pass up here, but I'm gonna tell them I just want it as a test because the car is "STRICTLY" offroad.. lol Damn tree huggin enviro hippies