torxxx

Well I tested the Blocked EGR idea today. Did 100 miles of driving with it blocked. Engine accelerates smoother, runs cooler and gets better gas mileage. If you have a carb'd EA82 and dont have to pass emission testing, I recomend that you try this mod out. I just used a chunk of an old fender I had layin around, cut to fit, drilled two holes and stuck it between the EGR valve and the intake. Any feedback on this?

its carb'd so you had to pump the pedal a bunch to get it primed.. sounds like your fuel pump is toast.

I agree with HTI.. I wouldnt call it crap, but highly inefficient. Like for me sometimes, when I come home from work just to check the board about a question I have, its easier to start a post about what I'm looking for instead of searching through 100 pages that may or may not have the info that I'm looking for. BOOZEN: The 88 AWD is a FT4WD automatic correct? If so the car is turbo'd so its a 3.7 final drive. You'll want to use the transmission, driveshaft, rear diff and the front axles from the 85 D/R 5 speed donor. You will also need the pedal assembly from the 85. There a few other things, I'll post em if I can remember them

I agree with the guys on this one. swap the x-member or you are just gonna cost yourself time and money.

well that oil thats getting on the turbo, your cam case could be leaking at the seams. When was the last time you had the engine resealed?

Kids love older subarus. My son points out every car like mine when we are our driving. Have fun with it. 86 was a good year, beat the hell out of it for me.

check your timing. my rx shoot like hell today at first start up after rebuild. I turned the timing up a lil bit and it smoothed right out. that headlight deal, check your fuses. I've ran into that a few times. subaru uses a round circuit for everything, so if your drivers headlight fuse is burnt, it will make that side go dim because the power is backfeeding from the passenger side. Also bad grounds could cause the same problem

you are having bad mileage because the hitachi carb that comes on your car is most likely worn out. I've gone through 3 hitachi carbs in 6 years. I gave up on finding a good one, so I just stick with my 12-15 mpg that I get with it. Still out pulls a SPFI EA82.. LOL there is other factors that could be causing bad mileage. bald tires, over/under-inflated tires, bad alignment, weight in the back. Fuel filter could be pluggin up. As for a free'r flowing exhaust, it helped my milage some, but then again, it sounds cool and I keep it rev'd up all the time so it canceled itself out.

hmmm alright. well thanks for the info... that reminds me, I never did put the RX in 4lo when it was running. I can't believe how hard it is getting up here in Alaska to get ahold a damn D/R tranny. Been lookin for 3 months, havent found one yet. I got a 4EAT, FT4WD 5 speed and hella push butt 5 speeds.

thank you.. drive thru

hehe, after reading this thread, it confirms my SCREW EA82T's. I'm actually pissed off that I wasted my money on a RX for it to blow up in 2 hours. Easiest solution for these engines is: DON'T BUY ONE

Alright guys, well if you've read my post about my POS RX then you know why I'm asking these questions. I realize the axles splines are different between turbo and non turbo. Other than that, what else is different? Do they use the same drive line? (assuming yes). Also what about the clutch splines? Basically I want to part out my RX and put the tranny from that into my 86 lifted wagon (input bearing has been clickin for a while and I lost 4low) I plan on pulling the 23 spline stub axles out of my tranny and using them in the RX tranny. I will be using the 3.7 LSD rear diff to keep the final drive the same. My biggest question is: How much of a difference is a RX tranny going to have on my gearing compared to my D/R 5 speed thats in the wagon now? I just wanna make sure I can still turn my 25.5 inch tires.

ahhh ok I gotcha. I just have a funny feeling about intake gasket. I dont see how a brand new gasket, torq'd to spec would fail within 5 minutes. I never boosted the engine up or anything. I started it and let it idle til it started running like crap, then I rev'd it up. GAWD I hate turbo'd engines. waste of money and time. Over 600 bucks into a 200 dollar car with 76,000 miles on it. makes me wanna burn it

I installed new napa intake gaskets. I've been using those gaskets for 5 or 6 years now and I have never had a problem with them. The only thing is I was using them on N/A applications not a turbo. the coolant is streaming on the ground at the tail pipe. it gets worse with RPMS. I wirewheeled the intake manifold and the head. one surface on the intake had a slight pit on it, but it was on the air side of the intake. What is this pressure test I'm supposed to do? So now that we all understand that these turbos are oil and coolant cooled, there still could be a chance its a cracked turbo? I talked to the other subaru shop in town and the main mechanic said he's seem more EA82T's with cracked turbos than with cracked heads. Jerry - as for the EJ22, I'm kinda thinking about it. I have the adapter plate, but I don't have the flywheel redrilled. Thats gonna be the biggest thing that would stop me.

well i just got done messin with the RX. after replaced the headgaskets, intake, exhaust, seals etc its still pissin antifreeze out the tail pipe. i checked the heads over and didnt see any cracks anywhere. So i'm guessing I either cracked a turbo or have a cracked block/cylinder. At first start up, it ran like a dream. after about 2 min of running, here comes the antifreeze out the tail pipe. then the sputtering and running like crap. Cracked turbo would blow antifreeze through the intake, through the cylinders and out the tail pipe wouldnt it? The only reason why I think that is because it ran fine at first start up (thinking the plugs started to foul from the antifreeze getting blown into the cylinders. Anyways, I either need to get it fixed, or its getting parted out. My D/R in my lifted wagon is going out, so I'm kinda thinking of putting the FT4wd 5 speed in my wagon along with the 3.7 LSD rear diff. How much is it going to affect my gearing with 25.5 inch tires? For offroad, I think 1st gear 4lo will still be low enough for mild crawling. Highway I could really give a crap about as long as I can get up to 65 and do the speed limit. Please let me know what you guys think. the car is insured, so if I can't figure out whats wrong with it, its cheaper for me to part it out than try to find another EA82T up here thats still good.

sway bars have been known to cause problems on uneven roads. I've been running my wagon for 3 years now with no sway bars. Like it way better. Do a search, there a few threads about the dangers of sway bars

Snowman's got it

My carb'd ea82 rips with the hitachi carb. I ripped all the vacumn lines off it and plugged them off. 2 inch straight pipe with gutted cats. Use a SPFI air intake and airbox instead of that stupid peanut airbox. MSD Blaster Coil, 8mm wires, platnium plugs. Turn the timing up til it detonates. Having 4 low is key for offroading. I snapped a couple teeth on the 4lo gear so I only have 4 high, but even then 1st gear WOT gets my 25 1/2 tires spinning. LSD rear end will help also GD - the trick is to NOT get stuck.....

that thing is awesome. except for the automatic tranny in it. Imagine how that thing would drive with a STi 6 speed with the VCCD

Alright, well back to the zinc thing. I work on a commercial fishing boat. We haul salmon from the fishing grounds into town. Sometimes its 4 or 5 day wait before the fish get off the boat. I run the refrigeration system on the boat. I think just in the engine room alone, there are 10 to 15 zinc sticks going in the RSW pipes, condenser and the heat exchange pipes. We use 15 Kw pumps which for their size, you think the impellors would chew the hell out of anything foreign in the system. They dont work too well with chunks of hard stuff going through them. So we use zinc... Down in the hatches, There are two foot long by 4 inches wide strips of zinc. Outside of the boat also had zinc in a few places. Thats why I said use zinc. Easiest way to do it. Throw a zinc in a threaded hole like the CTS. the electrolisis will eat down the zinc, but it shouldnt come off in big chunks that are going to hurt anything.

you would probably want to use zinc for the electrolisis. We use those on marine applications (jetboats)

you have a way of changing the wheelbearing that is pressed on to the stubshaft with the doj cup still on the stub?

simple solution to the problem. rip that damn hill holder cable out of there. If you can't figure out how to use your parking brake and the clutch on a hill, you shouldnt be driving a soob

awesome rig. I like how clean the conversion is

well there is one of the reasons I live in Alaska. I havent taken my key out of the ignition for 2 years, or lock the doors