torxxx

wix filters or nothing!

looks good. oh and the svx balljoint - still available thru the dealer.. 100 bucks a piece now thou. I just replaced em on mine.

sway bars are pointless on offroad rigs. My 98 Outback has a 6 inch lift on it and 29"s and I run without ANY sway bars. I did have a bit of body roll before I installed the wheel spacers, but once I spaced my wheels out 1.5" on each side, it reduced the amount of body roll considerably. On a loyale/GL, the sway bar didnt make that much of a difference, it was only a 15mm swaybar IIRC. I know I cut through mine with a jigsaw and a wood cutting blade when I lifted mine (didnt have a hacksaw or a sawzall lol) If you are dead set on keeping it you'll need to make some sway bar link extensions so you can keep the sway bar in the stock body location

I woulda tagged that buggy with the front bumper. Just a little love tap saying GTFO! He stopped your forward momentum, makes me wonder what woulda happened if he never cut you off. Impressive videos though, I like how you backed out of that hole, impressive

btw urs is an 03, so I dont think you'll have to mess with an EGR pipe. If so, its a 22mm on the 2.5 SOHC engines Just dont forget to unplug ur knock sensor and power steering connector. I catch myself from time to time doing that, its not a big deal to replace the connector, just extra work

I always replace the intakes because they are a paper gasket, exhausts I will reuse if they weren't leaking. I always spray my exhaust gaskets down with a couple of coats of copper coat. you'll need a 22mm and a breaker bar to get the crank pulley bolt off, timing cover and valve covers are all 10mm, its SOHC so theres no need to remove the rocker arms. 12mm on the intake, few spring clamps to the throttle body heater, 14mm on the A/C mount., 12mm on the alternator and PS pump. I find its easier to remove the entire P/S pump with the bracket (3 12 mm bolts) if you take the 2 10mm bolts off the intake runner for the power steering lines, theres more than enough room to get the PS pump/bracket up onto the fender where it will hold its self. You are gonna need a tensioner pin, or a small drill bit to for when you compress the timing belt tensioner down. Do yourself a favor now and spray down the 6 exhaust studs with PB blaster and let them sit a bit. helps eat the rust off them and keep the studs in the head when you pull the nuts off.

Gloyale means the pressure plate bolts, not the flywheel bolts. Cant really get the flywheel bolts after the trannys in

yeah, its a 3 piece gasket. The original problem with the external leaks stemmed from the coating Subaru put on the gaskets. I've ran the felpro for a while now on customers rigs and tore one down the other day that a customer had seized up and the gaskets still looked original. No sign of the coating coming off the felpro gasket. Check the heads with a straight edge, they might be flat still, could have been just gasket failure that caused it.

I'd avoid a WRX unless you can find one with a 6 speed already installed. I run with a group of WRX hounds up here and most of them have had nothing good to say about the 5mt that came with them. I think most of them toasted 3rd gear. If you wanna make a car thats gonna win some drags, Needs to be a Sedan or early Coupe. They are the lightest. Avoid the wagon, they have an extra 400+ lbs added to them. Its gonna come to the point of where you are gonna have to decide is this car gonna be a daily driver, or strictly a race car? Having both, you sacrifice a lot. daily driver, you'll want to leave the interior intact, race car you want the interior stripped. Same goes with Air conditioning. matter, of fact literally the entire HVAC system if its gonna be a drag car should come out. every pound makes a huge difference when you have a small car/small engine. If it was me, EG33 with a SC on it and a 6 speed. stuffed into a GC Sedan. 6 speed ur gettin the torsen diffs, 5 speed is open diff up front. Not to mention DCCD with the 6 speed.

headset, head bolts, 2 gal coolant, few cans of green brake clean. Subaru thermostat part numbers can be found on opposedforces.com I would highly recommend getting the heads resurfaced, since its a EJ253 motor (known for external leaks on the HG, not internal like the EJ25D) the heads may be slightly warped. I've done tons of HG's on those motors and like 1 out of 100 will be an internal leak. 99% of the time they leak coolant out the backside of the heads. oh and you'll need a 14mm 12 point socket for the head bolts. the rest will be 10mm, 12mm and a pair of hose pliers. You'll want some form of surfacer for cleaning up the intake manifold surface/exhaust manifold surfaces. I use a 90 degree head grinder with Rol-Loc purple pads (they arent the finest grit they make, but they seem to work the best for aluminum. and if you can get the headgaskets locally I'd buy an extra one just incase you screw one up installing since you will be doing it in the car. The one time I decided to do it in a car, It was a sunday and I screwed the gasket up from trying to line up all 6 bolts while they are still in the head, and then getting the head on the dowl pins. You could use the turbo gaskets, but I'd just go with the felpro blue metal gaskets, cheap and easy to get ahold of.

if you can find a small carpet drier (like the big ones they use to dry off industrial carpet, you may be able to get it under the lip by the door trim, and get that foam dried up. that insulating foam can get one hell of a nasty smell to it after a week or two. I had to completely rip out my carpet out of my old lifted loyale after playing submarine. we tried cleaning the carpet, drying it left the doors open for a week and it still had a nasty mildew smell to it

sure it didnt come thru the hole where the AC system has the drain hose? I've had water come in there before. If you had it that far up the windshield it could have ran down the air ducting. Blower motor might not last as long as usual since it prolly got wet

you've got 3 guys with a combined 25,000 posts saying replace the head gasket. If someones done a hill billy rebuild and posted, I wouldn't take that as a legit answer. (Unless it was MilesFox, that guy can make anything work with nothing) You are asking if people are reusing a part not meant to be reused.. Its like taking a shower and putting dirty underwear and socks back on....

I'm gonna get started something this week on mine. Enough snow had melted that I can get to my spare parts now. We looked at what I wanted to do today with the car up on a lift and it doesnt look too complicated to take care of the front rear diff hanger issue. Trailing arms, will actually hide the diff hanger completely, I just need to air hammer into a junk body to find where the thickest metal is that I can bolt/weld plates to

Searched around and couldnt find anything about this. Anyone have a chart that shows the different spring rates/lengths and strut lengths for the EJ series cars? I've got a few ideas rolling around in my head but seeing some numbers would help a lot more than trial and error

exhaust and EGR gaskets are not high pressure gaskets. Head gaskets are, look at how thin the fire ring is. you've got less than an 1/8th" of an inch and you are blowing exhaust into your coolant. EJ25D already had an issue with that, and then the EJ251 had the external leak issue.. so you are already raising the risk of failure again. Its not worth the hassle of having to redo a job because a 30 dollar gasket that is one time use didnt get replaced

+1 to Fairfax4me

yea the bolt bends the bracket. I actually bent mine backwards and smashed the lift block down. Looking at it, its an odd angle of a hit, but it didnt take much, coming over a gravel bank and hit a rock, I didnt realize it was bent til I did my next oil change. I'm thinking about cutting the lift plate off, leaving scotts top piece there thats already as a welding point. the Diff hanger will be bolted to a plate through the floor (I think its just enough in front of the fuel tank I can get to it with an plasma cutter) trailing arm will be extended and moved forward to give it a more gradual angle. thinking it will mount forward probably 2 inches from where it is now. but then at least it will be up out of the way and I can make a reinforced runner on the trailing arm to act as a skid

+1 for what Woodswagon is saying. the plastic tool should be thrown in the garbage. If you have access to any junk 5mt's cut the input shaft off and use that as the alignment tool

well I guess I missed the 6 inch EA82 lift. I'll take the blueprints for sure.

any bent lift parts yet? I'm going to have to tear most of my lift off and re-design it, noticed a bunch of stuff bent when I did my tranny swap. Not too thrilled with dropping a grand on something I'm going to have to 100% redo in a year. The diff hanger/trailing arm bracket was the first to go, lasted 2 rides. its all gonna get cut out, I'm going to build my own diff hanger and do something along the lines of extended/moved forward trailing arms.

dont bother with the tranny unless its had something other then the factory 3.54 4EAT. It was a piece of junk pull the rear end, its a vlsd. get the door glasses if they arent scratched. glove box, door panels

I've ripped EJ ones completely out of the car. not to mention a lot of surrounding metals

weld the front, buy a rear steer setup for a rock bouncer and your traction issue is solved. The hydro steering will soak up the torque steer. I've been contemplating this for a while, and I dont see why it couldnt world. the hydro ram could be modded to fit up into the stock rack location, from there its a just a matter of making a steering column to run the hydro box, and getting a hydro pump. Issues I've ran into with these cars, they are not made to be fully trash offroaded. I beat the my 86 EA82 to living hell and back, and was constantly fixing/upgrading stuff. Yes its cool to see a small car going places big rigs do, but IFS/IRS causes more problems then its worth. 6 inches of suspension is not near enough to keep traction specially with an open front diff. it dont take much to lift a tire off the ground and then its all over

Got an idea the other day after a safety meeting. Biggest failure point I've seen on a EJ car is the front tow hooks. They were never designed as a recovery point but The more I've looked at mine wagon, I think I've found a way to reinforce that part of the car to where it'd be rigid enough to pull on and not worry about ripping off hooks or the bottom of the core support. roughly a 10"x15" plate 1/8" thick. A SRS sensor will have to be unbolted and can be relocated (I like the idea of keeping my airbag system intact) Underneath the headlight is a single layer piece of body metal, that I guess protects the bottom of the headlight. This will be removed. From there the plate will be trimmed to fit over the outside of the unibody directly over the part where the tow hook is sandwiched between the front clip. Plate gets welded from there 15 inches back. It will almost end up at the crossmember mount bolts. From there, a piece of 1/4" 2 wide flat stock gets welded to teh bottom of the core support (where the holes for a skid plate sit) So basically with bolt outer sides plated up and the bottom of the core support, that just leaves the engine bay side of the unibody. I need to get into the shop and take measurements, but I think 2x2 angle iron will go on the inside, allowing holes to be drilled to bolt the 2 welded on plates together. This will sandwich the "frame" around the tow hooks. Kind of a half assed write up, but I will get more detailed and take pictures as I go.