torxxx

alignment?!?!?!?!! :lol::lol: I dont think so on a EA82. Let me see, one of the bolts is a pinch bolt and the other is just a guide bolt to make sure you have the strut facing the right direction. The top bolts can affect the alignment, if you use the chamber plates from a legacy, but stock, you arent hurting anything by unbolting the bottom of the strut from the knuckle I have never EVER had my alignment checked, 6 or 7 years of slamming axles in and out along with new tierods and balljoints when they wear out and my car drives straighter than it did before I got it. I think you are thinking of the Legacy setup for the struts. Those bolts do change the alignment if you dont mark the bolt when u take it off.

here you go.. unbolt the strut, take the caliper and rotor and the pad bracket off. Take a BFH and pound the hell out of it. It will come out. You said you are replacing the axle, so it doesnt matter if you screw the threads up on the end of the axle. If you are going to make a rebuilt axle and you need to save the threads, use a brass drift the size of the indentation in the end of the axle. These EA82 cars seem to need a lil persuasion with a hammer to get a lot of the stuff apart. I dont know where everyone keeps getting this unbolt the balljoint and tie rod stuff from. You are just making more work for yourselves. Strut, caliper, rotor, pad bracket. Good luck

my favorite feature is that fact that I've beat the CRAP out of my wagon in the last 7 years. 110,000 miles of WOT hammerin it in and out of bumps, clearing 27 foot distance off a 5 foot gravel pile. Still on my original engine and original headgaskets. heh, and I wont get started about the RX

I agree.. if it aint broke, dont go tryin to fix it. lol subaru engines are the smoothest runnin engines out there due to the flat H configuration. The shock on the connecting rods transfers over to the next firing cylinder, instead of going straight into the bottom of the crank like on a Inline, or V configuration engine

yea good info. Gives me a bunch of ideas for my 88 RX coupe sitting at the shop with the engine pulled with blown HG's. I got all the parts, cept for a new oil pan (old mechanic musta dropped this engine)

what I was told from soob mechanics growin up, if you can get your edge of your fingernail down in the crack, THATS BAD. smaller than your edge of your nail, prolly ok. I think 75% of the EA82 heads I've seen have had cracks. 5% were rewelded and the other 20% were uncracked. I've rebuilt over 100 EA82 engines, so you can do the math.

With open T-belts......

hmmmm. I don't know about sealing it that way. I drive my cars too hard to have JB weld that would blow out and cause a bad overhead. I guess I will stick with the stock intake and just remove teh fuel rails and make the equal length ones that I've wanted. After looking at my engine and the parts for the last few days, the EA82T is a horrible design. I mean the EA82 is a great engine, but the way they designed the turbos and smog crap seems to make them 150,000 mile engines instead of 250 to 400,000 mile engines. just like what everyone says about #3 cylinder. farthest from the water pump, longest fuel rail and a turbo sitting RIGHT on top of the engine. With the spare tire rack, the turbo could have easily been raised up a lil bit and over towards the tranny (manuals wouldnt be affected too bad, autos would suffer from the heat). I might try to design something that would work, like turning the turbo on its side, mounting it up above the tranny/pitch stopper. A hood scoop placed dead center in the hood would also help with the turbo head. I'm definatly getting that special heat dissapating coating for the turbo and also apply the coating to the heads. Less heat means longer lasting headgaskets (cept for you boost freaks). Give me some ideas guys, I love my RX, but the EA82T needs to be more dependable. I dont need 200 hp+ like WJMs soob. 140 or so would be great, hell stock would be great if it had the dependability of a N/A engine I'm not sure if I mentioned earlier, but I found head gaskets that are the style like the 2.5L DOHC style headgaskets with the black sealant stripe around the whole thing. Should work a lot better than the old OEM Gaskets. So what are we torqin the head bolts to now for boosted engines? 47 ft/lb is what the manual says, I'm thinking 55 ft/lb might help out a lil.

the solution to that is running with out the timing belt covers. the oil will whip off the belts. I'm amazed after 2 years how clean the front of my engine is. Thats mudding with the covers off, puddle jumping, ice racing. cam seals leak straight down behind the cam pulley so the chance of hitting the belt is very low. I also agree with the guys about reving these engines. My engine hits redline quite a few times a day. And I've never replaced any seals in it. Been driving it WOT for 6 years straight and the only problem is the main bearing on my input shaft on the tranny is going bad. Like they say, drive em til they go boom, replace with a 300 dollar engine out of a wrecked car

is a spyder from a N/A MPFI do-able? I have one sittin in my entry way

Well I got her yanked out. all I have to say is that the Old business J&D Auto in Fairbanks alaska does rip off work. Avoid this business by all means neccesary. He now supposedly has a shop in Wasilla, Alaska so you have been warned. The only nuts and bolts that were right on my engine were the engine mount bolts and the two top bell housing bolts. the bottom stud nuts were finger loose, 2 or the 4 downpipe bolts were loose. The airpump had a 1/2 of play in the bolts. Pitch stopper bolt was threaded in maybe a turn or turn and a half. Not to mention the JDM motor was dropped and smashed the oil pan in and reduced the oil capacity to about 3 quarts. I'm ripping this engine down to the block and am starting over with it because I think my head gasket was blown because he didnt torq the headgaskets down. prolly just impacted them in. What do you guys reccomend to have my heads decked down to? I think I'm goin delta cams, TD04, intercooler the works

#3 Spark plug was white and had chunks and what not on it. All the other plugs looked normal. I'm wondering if I should use my carb'd block with the turbo heads and the carb'd cams... would that convert over?

400 bucks is a lot for a set of rims. I realize they are in the 4x140 pattern, but they are your basic steel wheels. I could see paying 400 for alloy or mag wheels, but not steel wheels. I pay'd 60 bucks for 6 14" pug rims. Yota rims can be bought for close to the same price. Drill two holes in the rims and they fit on your car. IIRC, I saw 28 or 29 inch tires that come on 14 inch rims..... allied armament if you dropped the price to 300 for 4 or 400 for 5 tires (for the spare), might sell a lil better. Those rims can't cost you guys more than 50 bucks a rim, especially if they are mass produced

yea as soon as I get the crap straightened out with my apartment, I'm gonna start working on it. I came home to standing water in my bedroom last night. The water was 2 inches from hitting my computer case and burning this place down. I spent 4 hours ripping up soaking wet carpet padding and nasty carpet. What a week. blew the RX up, apartment flooded, whats next? T-bone by a Semi truck with dual 18 wheel trailers? I better wear my helmet today hahaha

well I went out and bought a good comp tester today 125/125 on 2/4 cylinders.... big fat zero's on the 1/3 bank. they push up to 40 or 60 PSI on the gauge, but it doesnt hold pressure like the 2/4 bank. I'm ordering OEM gaskets tommorow for it and its gonna get done right. Delta cams make that much of a difference??

summer time I use 15w-40 with a quart of marvel mystery oil hehe it doesnt leak as fast

Its a 5 speed turbone. No water in the oil, no oil in the coolant, but its hard to tell cuz it blew out all the antifreeze in 5 minutes. The engine diffenatly didnt hydro lock because it still boosted up and hauled rump roast. I did notice some antifreeze on top of the up pipe flange where the turbo bolts up to so that kidna made me wonder. seems like the coolant passage on the #1/3 blew out both sides. Compression test tommorow...

Alright so after spending 400 bucks on getting it titled and registered and insurance, I took it out for the afternoon drive. I did get on it pretty hard, nothing over 5500 RPM, temp guage stayed below 1/3 of the way up. Had great oil pressure. Drove it to a buddies house, let it idle for a few min, shut it down, came out and started it back up and boom, solid white smoke out the exhaust. Ripped it down the road a lil bit, got a bunch of antifreeze out the poop chute. I'm assuming head gaskets, but I talked to a few board members and they suggested checking the intake gaskets and doing a compression test. I borrowed my buddies compression tester and I got 47 psi on every cylinder. I asked him if it worked and he said oh yea, its broken. So I have at least 47 psi in each cylinder. Blown HG is 0 psi correct? So then I pulled the intake off. Gaskets were cooked on the intake so it was hard to tell if they were cracked. The look like they were reused a time or two. The thing that I noticed was that the 2/4 bank had coolant topped off in the coolant port. 1/3 had nothing in the cooling port. I swapped each cylinder and tasted for antifreeze. #3 had a antifreeze taste to it. I'm guessing its the intakes for now. I'm going to try to get a good comp tester tommorow and test it again. What do you guys think?

I would put a thermostat in there. Not having one keeps the engine too cold causing bad mileage and its gonna run like crap. Put a 160 degree thermostat in there and drill a few extra holes in the rim that the jiggle pin is in. Yea you can make it powered by a switch and by the thermoswitch in the raidator. There is a thread in the USRM I believe and it has a diagram on how to rig it up to work. So if you forget to hit the switch and you leave the car running the thermoswitch will still turn the fan when it gets hot.

thx miles that makes it a lot easier to follow. well the car should be tagged tommorow, so I can finally drive it. The roads are ice free now.

No a 1/2" rachet will not work. (well it will, but you will be wasting a good rachet by snapping the gears.) The breakerbar is used to get the crank pulley bolt off. You will be putting the breakerbar on the bolt, and then rotate the engine over by hand until the breakerbar is tight against the core support (where the raidator sits.) breaker ba r will be going to the drivers side of the car. Now bump the starter. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE RUN. This will spin the bolt right out of the crank. No need for a tool to hold the flywheel while you try to undo 75 ft/lb bolt.

Yes the exhaust is gonna get chopped. Gonna have to use a different downpipe for the TD04 to bolt up anyways right? my buddy called me last night, said his buddy at work just upgraded his WRX turbo so he's gonna try to snag me the TD04. I am going to put Delta cams in it, but thats after it gets intercooled, boost gauge, A/F gauge, boost controller. So its got a lil while before the engine is gonna get ripped apart.

thanks a lot guys. I drove the car today after playing around with stuff. GODDAMN I love the power of the turbo. I think me and this car are gonna get along just fine. Its still a lil smokey, but the car did sit for a year without running. What kind of oil do you guys reccomend for it? I was thinking 10W30 Mobil one Synthetic, but I'm gonna see how much of a leaker it is first.

new belts 1/2" breaker bar 22 mm socket 1/2" drive - crank pulley bolt 10mm socket - timing belt covers 12mm socket - dipstick holder, raidiator bolts, alternator/AC tensioner t-belt tensioner bolt rachet to fit the 10 and 12 mm sockets 10mm wrench for the bottom bolts L t-belt covers

I'm guessing the 89 would be closer to my year. I'm not sure when they changed the systems over. I think it goes 85-86 were the gen 1 (not really but as an example) and 87-89 were gen 2. Saying this I mean the vac line setup and the whole intake and everything So yea, either way both would work. thanks man. I sent you a pm with my email.