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here is the cheap and easy way. get the ford pump and buy a cheap variable fuel pressure regulator. Dial it in @ 24PSI and be done with it

Alright guys, got a few questions. Start with the easy one. How many of these RX coupes did subaru sell in 1988? Any of you guys have close up shots of your engine bay (prefferably stock)? I got some vac lines that were unplugged when I got the car, and I got no clue where all they go. I need shots taken from the turbo side of the car. one between the oil fill neck and the TBI and then a shot from behind next to the turbo. looking at the WGDS and the boost switch. Also where is the cruise control unit located under the hood? I have a round diaphram looking vacumn deal under the WGDS bracket with two vacumn lines coming off it. The bottom nipple is green. I'm assuming that is the cruise control unit? Sorry bout all the noob questions. This is my first EA82T that I've owned. Its gonna be my baby, so I wanna get everything hooked up the right way. thanks in advance

I've gotten the ujoint's out on EA82 drivelines. Take a torch and cut the center of the u-joinT out. The part you need to cut will look like a plus ( + ). Becareful not to hit the ends of teh drive line though. Then you dont have to unstake the caps. Just pound the caps the way they are already going. And its hot so they should come right out

thanks for the pictures guys. thats what I needed to see. Since we are on the subject, where do I T into to add a boost gauge and manual boost controller? I'd also like to get a A/F gauge. hell I save some time typing out everything. I wanna make this thing rip. I'm going to the junk yard tommorow to find a Saab Intercooler. What year/make do I need to pull it from?

yeah tommorow when it is light out, I will try to get some pictures. (gotta find someone with a camera)

I went back and cleaned the contacts on the water temp switch on the thermostat housing and noticed that the coolant temp sensor on the rear of the block has the wires siliconed to sensor, so I think that solves the water temp code. As for the dutyseliniod, is that the thing with two wires going to it and two vac lines mounted on the right strut tower? I still dont havea place for the vac line with the one way valve. I looked and one of the elec selinoids on the intake has the piece broke off it.

Got my new RX running today. all that was wrong with it was the timing belts were put on wrong. LOL.. gotta love a 200 dollar car. So I'm getting two codes @ the ecu now. My Chiltons isnt RX specific but it gave me these two for the codes Code 21 - Water temp sensor Code 44 - Duty Solenoid Valve Waste gate control Are these correct for a 88 RX coupe? I did have one vac line unhooked on the top of the right side of the engine. I looked for a place for it to go, but couldnt find one. It has a one way check valve inline where its unplugged. this go to the duty solenoid? The turbo light wasnt coming on either anywhere between 3 and 5000 rpms. something isnt right there. the mechanic that was working on the car is a idiot, so I'm not suprized if something is unhooked.

I'll try to get a camera and get you guys some pics. I'm gonna go mess with it tommorow and get it running and attempt to drive it to my shop with expired tags. Then the body kit is coming off and project rally car is beginning

god I love spring break up.. soobies for sale everywhere.

well there was a long battle to getting the car. the owner of it was out of Alaska all winter, and the guy who was fixing it went out of buisness and left the state, but he parked the car at his house. We got ahold of the mechanic and the owner said he wanted his car back and we were gonna go get it. So I have the legal title in my hands. I started to attempt to get the car back in September so it took 6 or 7 months to get it worked out. The reason why I got the car so cheap, was its been sitting for a year. The owner assumed that it was parted out so he figured he was at a complete loss. When I told him I knew where the car was, he said give me 200 bucks and its yours. I was really happy to hear that because the old mechanic wanted 1500 bucks for the car....

Well I just got my RX today. 76,000 original miles. Damn near mint condition. got a cracked tail light on one side. Needs T-belts to run but other than that, its a sweet car. Got it for 200 bucks

I've seen the ozified lifts in person, never drove one and I will say no to ozified/BYB. Their design in the rear is messed up. too much stuff to break. I have the AA lift on my rig. Other than the fact that they sent me the wrong steering shaft and I had to pay more money on top of that to get my old one welded TWICE because AA gave me the wrong measurements. Another problem with AA is that they should include rear diff hanger shims to drop the front of the rear end down some. With out, the rear diff will slam on the bottom of your car when you floor it hard in 4wd. other than that, the AA lift has been great. Haven't broken anything or any axles yet and I've been hard enough to blow a tranny. Chipped teeth ont he 4Lo gear and spun the main input bearing. SRJ's lifts look the nicest and most accurate. I'm thinking about gettin the 6 inch lift next. With AA I had to ream out some of the holes to get the bolts to fit.

dude that is TIGHT!!! I want one

probably should caleb, but that much info doesn't fit in the feedback seller deal..

you will need an 1/2" adapter plate to mate the EJ18 to the EA82 Tranny. There is a ************load of info on the site about it. You will also need to weld the holes shut on a EA82 fly wheel and have new holes drilled to mate the Ej18 crank. You'll need the wiring harness from the inside of the cab forward to the front bumper. What else............... well those 3 will get your started. allied armament and a few other guys on the board sell the adapter plates

thats the space warp computer. I've heard stories of these being installed on GL-10 Sedans and Wagons. They usually go with the digital dash. Mars here we come. lol nah its a trip computer like everyone else said

good idea on filing the brackets down. I will try that on the next one I work on. I like how they used really small screws too so you lose them down in the intake/top of block when you take them off.

yea major safety factor with the disc brakes. I think that is my favorite mod that I've done on my car. Makes it so you can drive faster since it stops on a dime.

You found the right connectors. Along side the windshield wiper motor there is a green connector and a white connector that should both be unplugged. Plug in the white one. Now take the kick panel off under the steering column (one that the fuse box axxs panel is in). Look directly under the steering shaft (where the panel you just removed is) The computer will be flashing a red light in the center of the ECU. It will flash long and short flashes. Long Long Long Short Short Short Short would be code 34. The longs are 10's and the shorts are 1's. Post the codes and I will interpret them for ya. Tires, you want 185/75/13R tires. They are the subaru "standard" tires for the GL and Loyale wagons. Get them at Sam's club. Summer tires will be about 30 to 40 bucks a tire

Cutting springs is dangerous from what I've been told. What did you use to cut the springs? I want the rear of my car stiff. It will help keep all 4 tires on the ground where they like to do the 3 wheel nose stand. It should also get rid of the nasty body roll in corners. funny story about doing the swap. brought them to my local junkyard and paid them to compress the springs. They put the top caps and mounting bracket on sideway, they didnt seat one of the springs all the way, so the spring had a bow in it, and I think it bent the one strut. I asked them to fix it and the guy took the springs back off and gave me the parts back and didnt charge me. I called another shop and they said 50 bucks to do it. Too much????

use a 7/32" punch 3/16" is too small and it actually makes the pin harder to get out because it splits the pin open and binds into the hole

well I went back to work and checked that car out again. Started looking at the dash. kinda looked like someone had tried to take it apart before. So I pulled the trim over the cluster, found the hazard plug was unhooked from the switch. Wasted 4 hours on a damn unplugged switch... lol

I always went by 40 miles to go when the light turns on.. Put that is me and my lead foot..

k I got this POS 88 sedan at work that doesnt have any blinkers. I checked all the bulbs, checked all the fuses, switched out all the relays under the dash that I could see. And they still dont work. Put a different switch in the car off a column of the same year, still nothing The flasher unit is the lil black box that is attached to the relay bracket correct? Anyone got an ideas?

95-96 DOHC engines will bolt up to a 97+ newer transmission. I found that out at work. So to answer your questions, just about anything from, 1995 and newer is interchangeable. The bellhousing is a 4 bolt setup on the 95/96 and then from 97+ they did the 8 bolt bellhousing. The only difference is lack of threads in 4 of the holes. It will still work going 4 bolts to 8 The biggest thing was already mentioned, gear ratio. 4.11 and 4.44 is what you are gonna run into. Oh yea, sorry to hear you havea brighton