torxxx

I honestly DO NOT see a reason for this tool. I've done over 200 timing belt swaps and have never needed one. There may be a certain torq number for new and old belts, but the question is, does it really matter? With my open covers and lifted wagon, I dont really care if I snap a timing belt. it takes about 10 minutes to put a new set on.

Yeah I got a bunch of holes in the bottom of the airbox. It sucks cuz I wanna run it without the filter because it runs so much better.

So I've been testing my SPFI air intake I put on my carb'd EA82. With the air intake and air box from a SPFI Ea82 with the pcv lines hooked up to the air intake, I notice a lot of resistance around 3500 RPMS. It lags really bad and then after about 4100 RPMS it pulls like a champ. Either the PCV lines going directly into the air intake is oiling the carb passage and intake and causing the engine to run like crap. Or could it be that the SPFI air intake is too long and the filter is too much for a carb to pull air through. I have a brand new WIX air filter in the airbox. When I run with the air intake completely unhooked, I get good power all the way to red line.. One constant pull, not start, lag then go like it is with the air intake hooked up correctly. So what are my options here? I had a cone filter on it 2 years ago, hooked to the SPFI air intake and it seemed to work alright, other than the fact that the filter was simply too small. Maybe I need to get one of those wanna be ricer air intake fans? lol Either way, muddin season is coming up and I need to have filtered air going into my engine. Gimme some ideas please

you dont even really need a key. a lock cylinder out of one of the doors or out of the rear gate will work. Locksmith should charge about 10 bucks to cut a new key. GD - keys in a car in a JY? come look at my yard at the shop. Every car out there has the keys in it.

why would you want a DOHC engine. Subaru had more problems with those engines than All the EA series engines together

Legacy seats fit with VERY MINOR modification. All you have to do is drill 4 holes so the EA seat rails bolt on.

I agree

I spliced new wires into the sender and then ran the wires up to the back passenger door and spliced into the wiring harness because I didnt feel like dealing with trying to splice wire in between the top of the tank and the body. I dont remember what the colors of the wires were, but I can bring my manual home tommorow and give you a color

save your self some time. replace the column with a JY column with keys

you've got a great point there man. I remember when board members were freaking out because I was going to remove all the emissions stuff on it. The thing to realize is that diesel powered cars and trucks dont have to pass emissions tests. They puke out some nasty ************. But then it comes to our little 4 cylinder engines. We have to pass a under the hood inspection and a computer tested inspection up here in alaska. Its rediculous that I have to IM my gas engine and diesels get away free.

I just gave you a perfectly good explantion for your fuel gauge not working and you want more reasons???!?!?! Ok a midgit was living under your car. He realized how dark is was and decided to cut the wires going to your fuel tank sender. He used those wires to set up lights under your car. There ya go....lol

that marine paint that dude was talkin about works good. Even better stuff is POR 15. its made to paint over rust. it eats away the rust and seals it. POR 15 is like 18 dollars a quart though. When it dries, it makes a good 1/8" thick layer if you mix it right

I'll bet you a dollar its the sending wire coming out of the tank. I had that happen on my car. thought it was the gauge, changed the cluster, didnt fix it, changed another lower mileage cluster, still didnt fix it. Pull the carpet up in the back (if its a wagon) or in the trunk if its a sedan. There will be a axis plate going to the tank. It should have 2 or 3 phillips screws holding the plate on, check the wires going to the tank for corrosion.

if you are just going to use the strut blocks, you are going to have major alignment issues. Not to mention you are going to wear axles at 10x faster. You might as well go with a 3 or 4 inch full lift. Drop the x-members down so your front alignment stays the same as stock (or very close to) I have a 4 inch lift on my wagon, and now I wont drive any unlifted ones. If that tells you about safety.

thanks

bump......

crank angle sensor is buggin out? sounds like a major vacumn leak to me.

figured since theres a thread about EGR removal, I'll throw this one up. Anti back fire valve, just remove it and cap the 5/8" hose going to the EGR valve? Is there any adverse effects of removing the ABFV? remember, my EA82 is carb'd so I dont have a ECU to throw off by removing this junk

ok, so I dont need a block off plate then? I'll just put a vac cap over the line to the valve and where it comes out of the intake?

yeah its starting to sound like driving it is gonna be whats gonna have to happen. oh well, guess it means I got a fast car to drive to WCSS8. Whats the replacement cost of a windshield? I've heard up to a grand for the window. The tranny is good. it was shipped to a tranny shop in Seattle and was recently rebuilt.

Thats kind of funny, because I've snapped brand NEW axles on the front. I didnt just snap the DOJ. This straight snapped the axle in the middle where its 1 inch thick steel. And that was on my carb'd wagon before I did anything to the engine. Never snapped a rear axle, just spun the cups. Either way, I've gotten 2 years out of a JY axle, so thats the way I roll. I got 2 sets of rears and a set of fronts sitting at the shop at all times. I priced it out. 68 bucks for a reman'd rear axle. Seems cheaper to goto the yard and pull two of them for 10 bucks

ahhhhh so I need to get rally spec knuckles then.... bling bling...

I'm thinking about it because the cost of fixing the SVX. Right away I'd have to replace the brakes on it, since that seeme to be the weak point on the svx. too much weight and power for legacy sized brakes WRX Sti didnt use the 4x140 mm rims that they were talking about?

well I could use outback rear struts. That should fit the SVX hub. The only problem is gonna be the control arm. They use that weird system on the newer cars. Looks more prone to bending.. but the way the hub bolts up, I could make longer control arms and get my tires back to where they were before the lift.

I've pulled those stubs out of a legacy tranny before. Another shop in town needed one and they said that they pounded it back in. Hell in a wrecked forrester that we made into a rally ride for around the shop, we used bigger spring rings or what ever they are called, cut them down and bent it to fix and pounded rear axles back into the diff. It seemed to work. As far as the EA tranny, I'm not sure. There is one sitting at my shop that has the same problem. From looking at it, probably going to have to rebuild the front diff of the tranny, or replace the whole thing.