torxxx

you guys sure make changing a axle a big deal. This is ALL you have to do. take the tire off, take the castle nut off, take the caliper off, the rotor and the brake pad bracket off, take the two lower strut bolts out fo the knuckle assembly. Thats it. You dont need to unbolt the top 3 strut bolts, or unbolt the control arm. There is no reason to do it. You will have more than enough room to pull the axle off the stub axle.

"cowboystrait well tell ya what friend my brat done same dam thing the oil pump is a goin and its time too get a new subie " NO you dont need a new sooby. You need to reseal your oil pump. 90% of the time the mickey mouse o-ring tears or gets sucked into the pump. The other 10% of TOD is a worn oil pump. I replaced my pump last year, I get over 85 PSI on start up and 45+psi at 2000 rpms

I've had to use a floor jack to push the sway bar up to the right spot to get the holes to line up. I got an idea about the front sway bars on these cars. Is there any reason why I couldnt make a two piece sway bar system? You'd still have the "articulation" in the front, but it would stop some of the lean on lifted rights. Instead of being a one piece all the way across, I'd cut out the middle section and just run the outer pieces in their original spot. Would this work?

Nice ride dude. I saw that same car last night with out a canopy.. same conditon. Old people had it though. That makes 3 cherry brats that I have to wait til someone dies to get ahold of them....

yea you can go about it a different way. after market Fuel Injection fuel pump. 42 Psi is what the SPFI runs off of I believe. You could even get a bigger pump and put a pressure regulator on it.

yea thats a vent hose for your front diff or for the AT. There are two sets of hoses coming off of them

yeah thats the ones that I get from carquest. They told me they fit one year of soobs but they didnt know which one. #12284 at Carquest .

we'll see what we can do......

yES YOU can do it like that

here is what I've found so far mr pink: crossmember, pedals, clutch cables, tranny, clutch kit, flywheel, drive shaft, shift linkage, center console, speedo cable

that nasty clunk in the back is the same as I got. diff hanger bushing

so is it possible to bore a EA71 upto 1800cC?

thanks for the fast response.. hehe alaska members are still alive this time of the evening..

yup thats the only place water can get inside.. Also use dielectric grease on your plug wires and top of cap.

No the Loyale is a different engine than the 2.2 Loyale = EA82 (1.8 ltr) Legacy = EJ22 (2.2 ltr). The whole design is different. 2.2 is a single timing belt engine non interference until 1996. The cooling passages are completely different from each other. 2.2 is MPFI, loyale is SPFI. I'll keep it simple. EVERYTHING is different. your stock engine being SPFI is 90 hp. If it was MPFI which I doubt 100 hp. Turbo - 115 hp The EJ22 is 135-140 hp EJ22T (turbo) 160 hp Napa works for most parts. You'll find different brands of stuff will work better. I used Napa for axles, brake pads/rotors, alternators, wheel bearings, suspension parts. Use OEM subaru o-rings, gaskets, seals PCV valve. You could use napa for eveything, but it wont last as long

he can't put a 1.8 in it, but could he bore the cylinders? There arent any EA71's alive up here in the arctic where I live. Whats the difference in the EA71 and 81? both are pushrod engines correct? Fuel Air Spark Exhaust Better carb, biggest exhaust free'r flowin air filter, and I was gonna say coil, but those engines have points don't they?

yea I looked at it in the computer at Napa. I've never gotten anything wrong with the one I always go to. They listed that same pan gasket for automatics from 82-94. The soob specialist I went to said that loyales were all 13 bolt pans and he'd never seen that kind of pan before. It wasnt aftermarket or anything. Straight OEM. the filter bolted up so I'm assuming it was the right one. I ended up making my own gasket and it worked. took me a half hour to make it and get all the holes clean enough for the bolts to go through. I'll try to remember to take my digi cam with me to work and get some pictures of it. As for it being a 4spd, Nothing looked out of the ordinary when I was under the car. what digit in the VIN says the drivetrain? I wonder if it could be a rebadged GL wagon. it did have bondo ina few spots on the car. i

lifted 86 gl wagon D/R 5 speed. 195/75/14 tires carb'd 12 mpg with my driving

So I got a 92 loyale with a 3AT in it. Wasnt shifting right. Checked the tranny fluid, nasty crap. almost black. pulled the pan, changed the filter, tranny didnt smell burnt or anything. I go to put the oil pan back on, and the pan gasket they gave me was different. Went back to Napa, looked on their computers and all they show for being in those cars is a 13 bolt pan. The pan on the car has 14 bolts and instead of being straight on one side and not straight on the other side, both sides have bends in the gasket. Went to the "Subaru and Toyota Specialist" in town and he showed me both gaskets for subaru automatics. A 3AT and a 4AT. Niether were the right gasket. What kind of tranny does this car have. It is push button 4wd. I'm wondering if its a Jap tranny or something? Oh and I like how they put that one 10mm bolt on the filter that has a nut up inside the tranny case where you can't get to with a wrench. Made tons of fun putting it back on.

I used a gasket from carquest for the exhaust headers. part number is 12284 they are the same size as subaru oem gaskets but they are about 2 or 3 times as thick with metal on both sides and then fiber or something in the middle. I've had NO problems with them blowing out

Well Said. Thats the biggest thing about these Aluminum blocks. It'd help if Fuji Industries had developed the older engines with steel inserts for the head bolts to thread in to.

nah. you can 2wd all the way to the track. I ran the track last year with 3 different sizes of tires. I like the 155/70/13s that I had. lots of wheel spin for drifting corners. Studs or no studs will work. it all depends on how you drive. Last year I drove the track like Tycho does this year. He's nuts! Now that I have my lift on, I gotta take it slow (snapped rear struts=wicked body roll). The shop is right down the street from the track, so when you stop by tommorow, we'll roll out there in my car if ya want.

no it wont. copper head gaskets were found to be too soft for over torqing. WJM has a thread about it somewhere. it was in the last few weeks

hell with gas prices the way they are, run 87 octane and if it pings, retard the timing a lil bit my car isnt fast enough to justify 2.50 a gallon. When the EJ22T is in there, I'll pay for premium

For the swap to 5 speed you will need: (feel free to add something if I missed it) D/R 5 speed with shifter and linkage tranny x-member 3.9 rear diff clutch pedal/cable axles will be the same since its not FT4WD?