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what kind of carb cleaner are you using? All the carb cleaner I've seen stalls the engine out. try pouring a lil gas down the throat. carbs need priming sometimes when they have sat for a while. You may need to pour fuel into it for 15 to 30 seconds to get it to take a full pull on the fuel lines.

the last picture you can see the clutch discs in next to the spider gears

also, will an N/A spider intake bolt right up? No it will not. Not unless you put MPFI heads on the car

I replace windshields. If you are going to do it yourself, you need a Equalizer long knife. it takes carpenter knife razor blades. Doing it by hand is gonna take you about an hour of cutting to get the windshield out. After you get the old window out you'll have to cut all the old urethane out of the window sill. You'll need 2 tubes of sikaflex fast curing urethane and a lil tube of primer and a activator pad for the window itself. You'll want to cut the tip of the urethane tube so you have a bead about 1/2 inch thick. You want the bead to look like this ^ If you have insurance, just tell your company you have a crack in your line of sight and they will make you pay the deductable and they will cover the rest. I've done subaru windshields by hand, and they, just like any other window, is a PITA if you dont have a the power tools to do it. A windshield shop can do the entire installation in a half hour, where as it'll take you 2 hours if you do it by hand

Search for water wagon

yes the o rings should have came in the gasket set. if it was the complete set with intake, exhaust head gaskets, cam cover gaskets thermostat gasket oil pump blah blah blah blah.........

Will - I am very interested in the modding you do to these engines. Like you said: Pick two of them. I'm getting a EJ22T so hopefully you'll have some ideas to help me along with that project so I dont kill that engine.

Carquest carries a exhaust gasket that is thicker than any other gasket you get at subaru or napa, online etc. I dont have the part number on hand, but I willl try to get the # tommorow at work for ya. They work great. They have metal on both sides and then fiber in the middle. they are almost a 1/4" thick.

sorry bout the mix up. my names for parts on an engine differ from other mechanics. Cam tower to me is cam case. The thing thats held on by 8 12 mm bolts...

those seals are o-rings with brass washers inside of them. They go between the top of the head and the cam case. On the turbo side of the engine, it is located directly below the turbo. On the bottom of the cam case, 3/4 of the way towards the tranny. There is a 12mm bolt in the general area where that o-ring is. That o-ring is a sealer for the oil port to the cam case. If you took the cam case off, it most likely ripped or cracked the o-ring. This will cause oil seepage. It will leak more if you run the car hard right after a cold start because of the higher oil pressure. Running normally down the highway, it will just drip. Air moving under the car causes the oil to fling on to the axle, which spits it onto the turbo and the firewall behind the turbo.

Yes, if that oring with the brass washer in it, doesnt get changed when you pull the cam towers off, you are gonna have leaks and HLAs are gonna tick. Most of the subaru dealers carry these o-rings. They are spendy for their size but they are worth it. I pay 3.54 a piece for the orings on the last engine I rebuilt. As far as oil pressure goes, at 3500 rpm I'm gettin 70 PSI. At start up when its cold, I'm pushin 80 PSI. As long as your pump isnt dropping to 0 psi at 1000 rpms, it should be fine. I've had a few rebuilt engines tick for a couple hundred miles. The only way to get the HLA's pumped up was to run the car at 5000 rpms for a few minutes.

axles have side to side movement. That allows for angle changes in your suspension. I.E. bottomed out or tire off the ground. I'm betting on the rear diff hanger bushing. Mine is toast and I get a really nasty clunk when my LSD locks up. Check at the flange where the driveline bolts to the rear diff. If the x-member right above the flange has bare metal showing or if there is bare metal on your driveline flange or bolts you need to replace that diff hanger bushing.

well hell, call this the poll

All you people viewing this, post your reaction. I know others donated money to towards bandwidth and keeping the site functioning. As I see it, we are shareholders. Hell I'll donate another 20 if you'll bring back the sigs.

I just noticed this. No signatures. Yes its old news. Personally, its ************************. I donated money so I could have a 1 line signature. When sigs became a problem, I changed the font and shortened it up. So yea, thanks jerks, that had the long signatures. Now people have to post what car they have when they have a question. Whereas the signatures made it so people had to type less when they started a new thread. Anyways I',m sure the admins are gonna feel good about locking and deleting this post, so go head. While you are at it, send me my 20 bucks back that I donated.

looks good.. I want a turbo..

I go with the 2 person bleeding job. Having the car running makes bleeding faster. Have the person pump the pedal 10x and hold down crack bleeder. do that 3 times per tire starting with the rear passenger - front driver - rear driver - front passenger. The biggest thing is to make sure the adjusting screws for rear drum brakes are set at the point where the back tire will barely free spin. I'm not saying anything bad about 85sub4wd way of doing it, but the way I listed, is more carefree. You dont have to worry about having hoses tight on the bleeder, you dont have to move around bottles of brake fluid for each tire..

you guys use hammers to take the axle out??!?!?! OMG.... just kiddin I use a big roll pin punch in that indent in the end of the axle. Even with REALLY bad wheel bearings, I never really had to pound one out to the point that it would screw up a bearing. Hell I go through bearings every year anyways. Damn Copper River Delta Silt chews up the dust seals.

Ok I Apologize. If its done Professionally then fine. But all I've seen in Alaska is kids doing auto start jobs.

Time well tell. Its common sense. YOU DONT SPLICE INTO FACTORY WIRING ON A NEW CAR. Yea its fine to hack into a 1980-90s EA82 wiring harness because the market value is crap. But to be doing it on the newer generations is just plain stupid. They ruin your car. Quit being lazy, walk outside and start the thing. I live in one of the coldest places in the US. Never had an autostart, never will. Its not that big of a deal to take 15 seconds out of your day and walk out and start your car. Yeah -60F sucks, but when it comes down to it, and something burns up to the autostart, it'll start to make sense The way I see it, Autostarts are for FAT PEOPLE!

I'll say this once about Auto starts and command starts. DON'T USE THEM. I've had half a dozen cars come in my shop this winter where the auto start FUCT the car up. burnin up alternators, wasting batteries. The problem with auto starts is that they are splice jobs done by some pothead kid who can't get a job any where else. Yes they do hide all the wires and stuff, but 14+ wires cut and spliced into your ignition WILL cause trouble. Especially if you have a stick shift. They splice a sensor to your parking brake, clutch pedal, dome light, power windows, power locks etc. One short in this will cost you some money.,

yeah the rubbing problem will be with EA81 rims on EA82 cars. It is just with the front tires. Problem can be solved with 4 washers (1 on each lug)

If I remember correctly, we used EA82 hubs on a 85 Brat last winter. They are 23 spline axles as long as they are n/a

Pam cooking spray also works on those seals.. that was the only way I could keep my rear doors from freezing shut.

they are NOT the same spot you'd use the stock subaru jack. they are in about 10 inches from that outer lip that the stock jack goes on. I personally havent looked under a 2006, but on the last 30 years of subaru's they've used the same "frame rails" in the same spots on every car. As for the "drain" holes, you are looking at the frame rails. I use a block 4x6 block of wood when I jack them up there. it helps spread the weight out from the head of the jack. That is the spot that any lube shop would use to lift the car with the big rotary lifts so you shouldnt have any problems. I'd be more worried about jackstands on the control arms in the back more than the front.