torxxx

Yea I run usually 30 laps straight on our ice track and I havent had any problems with total lack of oil pressure

I'ma dig up this old thread... Problem: BAD UJOINTS on rear drive line or bad bushing on rear diff hangers

I Shift on the fly up and down from hi to lo. You just gotta be easy on it and match the gear speed. If you are gonna shift to 4lo from 4hi 1st gear you need to be in 3rd gear before you put it in 4lo to match up the gear speeds to your tire speeds. Shifting from 4lo to 4hi works just fine, just hold the clutch down and it'll shift right out of lo to hi

No it wont. What I would use is a NOS airbox Fogger system. Snowmachine Hill Climbers and High markers use it. IT sprays a mist of NOS into your airbox. MEaning its not as hard on the engine. Its not a huge HP boost, but with a sooby, it will give it 15-20 HP and it would be something you could use a lot more often than the standard spray directly into the manifold after the injectors or straight into the cylinders.. May be something to look into. Just remember to up the size of everything because you are running it on a 1800CC engine not a 700 or 800 cc 2 stroke sled.

WOAH WOAH WOAH you guys are getting way too into this. To change an axle on the front of any subaru. TAke the tire off, castle nut off, brake caliper/rotor/pad bracket, unbolt the strut from the knuckle assembly, punch the pin out of the inner DOJ (the one that goes to through the tranny stub shaft) now pry your control arm down and pull the strut out of the knuckle. pop the Inner DOJ off the stub shaft and then hammer out the axle from the knuckle. Done job, just reverse to intall

I changed my fenders belly pan and front bumper today. They were pretty dented up, not from accidents or hitting stuff hard. Got em from stupid stuff like punching a fender when I was pissed off. With all the stuff off my car I used a piece of square tubing and a tape measure and found out the front end of my car is bent 3/8" to the passenger side and up a 1/4". I'm suprised because I've never ran into anything hard enough to crack the plastic bumper cover. I'm guessing the times all 4 tires were off the ground was caused this. Now I gotta figure out something to do with the rust behind the back tires. I was thinking diamond plate until I saw the price. Maybe sheet metal. What is behind the panels between the back bumper to the rear tire and then up to the channel that runs down the car?

Yes 91 Legacy SS has the VLSD 3.9 rear end on it. IT is a clutch pack based limited slip. A 3.7 LSD off a GL-10 and the 3.9 LSD off a RX and XT6 are spring based limited slip. People on the board said not to use VLSD for offroading. I love mine. IT goes anywhere. And it works a lil better than the spring type when cornering because it makes more wheel spin to get it to lock up.

nothing is different. they do the same thing, they just have different letters on the lil piece of plastic over the CEL ECS is a XT thing. my 86 hads it. It may have been a thing too for the MPFI N/A EA82

pop the trunk. turn the ignition on and there will be a green T connector and a white connector... plug one of them in, and the ECU has a lil red light in the middle of it. It will flash codes. Long and short. so if it was 2 longs and 3 short flashes and then a pause it would be code #23. find out what codes are coming on and I will tell you what the code means.

welcome to the board

Miles, - all your stories involve you getting arrested... When are you getting arrested?

drive it til it doesnt burn. My clutch has been slipping and burning for a year. The trick is, at shifts, ease onto the gas. and starting out feather the ga pedal. Do like jerry said and check your clutch cable adjustment. screw the adjuster in a few turns and see what happens

*note* I have my original idler pulleys on my car. 20 years old. They work fine. And timing belts should only take 15 minutes to change.. If that.. not too much work?

trust me, leave the back covers on. You arent gaining anything by taking them off. They help keep the guck out of there. My front of my engine is clean considering the lift opening up the bottom of my car more.

sounds like a job for diamond plate. That'll take car of the back of the cab problem. For the front core support and what not, find a brat somewhere and cut it out with a sawzall. make sure you do a cut through some of the holes that they have premade in the support, so when you weld the new one on, all you have to do is line up the holes, and everything will fit.

No dont use RTV. You want to use windshield grade urethane. RTV silicone doesnt really seal up all that great to metal when compared to urethane. I'm a firm believer that I can urethane a car together and it will be as strong as spot welds..

leave the back covers on (ones behind the cams) and you can take off all the front covers.. I've ran mine for 2 years like that. had no problems what so ever other than a used belt cracking but I still got 10,000 out of it after the first crack I saw. Your raidiator and core support will protect the t-belts and gears from almost everything. For something to get in there on a stock subaru, it would have to get thrown almost straight up into the belts, but if you leave the back covers on, it protects the bottom of everything.

a fuse?!?! :banghead: I've had a few customers bring their cars to the shop for fuses.. one guy put a new engine in and it wouldnt start. he thought he had a tooth off on the disty or t-belts... hehe felt bad charging him shop rate on that so he got it for free

well no one ever said subaru dealerships weren't rip offs. Just like when they have you bring your car in so they can add a "conditioner" to your air conditioning pump.

wow.. this post blew up fast... it most likely isnt a bad relay or fuse.. they are all or nothing. it IS a bad ground. like someone said, its prolly just a dirty contact or a busted wire

ouch..... that bottom stub shaft got hotter than hell....looks like my outer stub shaft did when my wheel bearing burned up and I drove it for 3000 miles after bearings fell out.

it was a bad ground wire at the socket on one of the parking lights. we chased the problem for 2 weeks at work, and that was one of the last things I checked. Is the tail light dim on the side that the headlight is dim?

yes he is correct. 60,000 and 120,000 the egr light will turn on, telling you to inspect/clean/replace the egr valve. There is a green and blue set of T connectors behind the kickpanel directly above your clutch foot. If its plugged in green to green, you would switch it to green/blue. if its green/blue you would switch it to green to green. Dont worry about cleaning the egr valve. IF the car runs good, dont mess with it. Jerry - I told you to give your brother my number... my offer still stands.. I'm in Fairbanks again working at the sooby shop so I can get him parts if he needs anything.

well the hole is already fuct, so take a new plug, bung the threads up on the spark plug, put it back in the hole with a socket and extention on hit and turn it by hand and when it stops, hit the back of the extention with a hammer and then turn it some more. keep doing that until it gets in a turn or two with hammering and turning. It will work. I blew out my #4 spark plug 2 months ago in the middle of the night. -30F outside and my girlfriend was with me. No way in hell I was gonna call someone or walk, so I did what I explained above. Car is still driving and has full power. If it doesnt work, then you can replace the head.

well I ran into this problem with with a 91 legacy last winter. There was a bad ground on the drivers side of the car in the wiring for the lights and that caused all the lighting problems. Subaru runs a circuit counter clockwise (drivers front to drivers rear to pass rear to passenger front) around the car. Thats why when you unhook the drivers side, the passenger goes out. With the drivers side hooked up, its still giving power to the rest of the car which is why the rest of the lights stay on. Your problem may be different, but when we got ours fixed, it was a bad ground wire... just an idea